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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I am looking to build a 351W for my 1994 F-150 4X4. I have a few ideas per parts I have on hand. I have heard good things about the 351W strokers using the 400M cranks as well as the "Clevor" engine. I have a few Modified laying around, a good 1972 Cleavland 2V and access to oodles of other small block parts. Any input on building a RELIABLE 300-400HP daily driver. I am a professional diesel mechanic so I know how to build iron, just not familiar with all the SBF numbers. I appreciate humble, accurate input. If you wanna be an ass, get in a pissing contest or start bashing everyone on this topic please pass this one over. THANKS!!!
 

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With the cheap stroker cranks available today I don't think it is cost effective to have the 400 crank remachined for the windsor...I would use a scat 4 inch stroke crank to give you 408 cubes...As for building a clevor engine are there available headers to work in your truck?...Since this is a relatively low hp build what about building a stock 400?..I don't usually recommend this route but since you are putting it in a truck it should fit with the proper mounts...You might want to do some research on building the "M" motor..They can make some good power with the right mix of cleveland and aftermarket parts..
 

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i like the end of your thread. we dont need the big head [know it all] telling us all how great he is and how stupid the rest of the 'world' is. this world everyone else lives in is based on real life, just ask our servicemen ! i have read so many answers to questions that are based on how great the responder is verses what are the casting numbers i need to make inexpensive horse power. not all of us can spend $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ to get us where we want to be. BUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUT i have kicked some ass on the track with stock parts put in the right place, and the 6000.00 engine build was sitting with a fan in front of the radiator and a charger on the battery. did i mention i was sitting on the corner of my hood bull ****ting about ????? while the big shot was worried about his next pass. please send him some good 'down the earth' information, and yessssssss if the ____ hole is reading just pass us buy like you do at the track, we didnt want to talk with you anyway!!!!! LOL LOL LOL NOTE> great information from FRDNUT!!!!!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I would really like to keep the EFI setup without doing a bunch of rewiring. I've also heard the Modified engines have rod bearing problems. I agree on the cost of machining vs buying a new crank. Do you know if its possible to build a Clevor top end with a 400M crank???
 

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i have a 351 c. used 2 barrel heads a jegs hyd. cam 3 steps above stock [ didnt want to use a stall converter ] headers a alloy intake 750 double pumper 350 traction lock witrh a stock c6. this 71 torino will fly!!!!!!!!!!!!!! inexpensive HP very drivable, sounds fast and is fast!!! oops used stock distributor mallory box
 

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If your talking about keeping a stock type EFI system then I would just stick with the windsor..The biggest issue is feeding a stroker sized engine with the crappy windsor heads..If you go with some aftermarket windsor style heads you can make alot of power but it's not exactly going to be a budget build..The stock cleveland heads could be used on the windsor block to make a "clevor" but then no stock aftermarket EFI intake is going to work..
 

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Right on, I'm assuming that's on a Windsor block? If so, how hard was it to make the heads fit? I know I have to drill collant ports and a new intake, any other surprises? Thanks for your input!
 

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Frdnut; My bad, I know I'm gonna need a clevor intake setup to make the Cleveland heads fit but I'm really hoping to keep it simple as possible keeping budget in mind. I feel like I have good parts available if I can put them to good use as the other fellow stated. I like doing odd things and being different. Anyone can go online and start tossing money around and build a wicked engine. I might be dreaming here but I think I can get the 408 stroker rotating assembly for the Windsor and stack Cleveland heads on top? Gonna have to spice up the fuel to it with injectors? I have a complete Mallory ignition system for it as well...

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i like the end of your thread. we dont need the big head [know it all] telling us all how great he is and how stupid the rest of the 'world' is. this world everyone else lives in is based on real life, just ask our servicemen ! i have read so many answers to questions that are based on how great the responder is verses what are the casting numbers i need to make inexpensive horse power. not all of us can spend $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ to get us where we want to be. BUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUT i have kicked some ass on the track with stock parts put in the right place, and the 6000.00 engine build was sitting with a fan in front of the radiator and a charger on the battery. did i mention i was sitting on the corner of my hood bull ****ting about ????? while the big shot was worried about his next pass. please send him some good 'down the earth' information, and yessssssss if the ____ hole is reading just pass us buy like you do at the track, we didnt want to talk with you anyway!!!!! LOL LOL LOL NOTE> great information from FRDNUT!!!!!!!!!!
You guys are right , no need for want-a be's that claim they know .

I'll watch this thread , never know if some combo of parts come together that i haven't built
 

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Right on, I'm assuming that's on a Windsor block? If so, how hard was it to make the heads fit? I know I have to drill collant ports and a new intake, any other surprises? Thanks for your input!
You need to also make sure your pistons have the correct valve reliefs for the canted valved heads..This may or may not be a big deal but it is a bit of an unusual build so an off the shelf 408 kit may not be available for that setup....I am a bit confused with what EFI you are going to run?...I thought the whole idea with going with the windsor was so you could reuse the factory intake and EFI setup?.........If you have to custom fabricate something then you could also just build the cleveland engine that you have?.....I am also assuming you are looking for a torquey style engine to use in your 4X4 and extra cubic inches will help with that..Any of those engines could be made to make 300+ hp with the right parts..You just need to decide which "package" you want it in.
 

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i have a 351 c. used 2 barrel heads a jegs hyd. cam 3 steps above stock [ didnt want to use a stall converter ] headers a alloy intake 750 double pumper 350 traction lock witrh a stock c6. this 71 torino will fly!!!!!!!!!!!!!! inexpensive HP very drivable, sounds fast and is fast!!! oops used stock distributor mallory box
"is fast" any time/mph at drag strip ?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
You need to also make sure your pistons have the correct valve reliefs for the canted valved heads..This may or may not be a big deal but it is a bit of an unusual build so an off the shelf 408 kit may not be available for that setup....I am a bit confused with what EFI you are going to run?...I thought the whole idea with going with the windsor was so you could reuse the factory intake and EFI setup?.........If you have to custom fabricate something then you could also just build the cleveland engine that you have?.....I am also assuming you are looking for a torquey style engine to use in your 4X4 and extra cubic inches will help with that..Any of those engines could be made to make 300+ hp with the right parts..You just need to decide which "package" you want it in.
I heard the Boss 302 pistons were the ones to use for the Cleveland heads with a stroker setup but thats why I'm here, looking to see what length rods, piston height and stroke will fit in a Windsor block with Cleveland heads.
I guess I was thinking I could buy the Clevor intake setup I found on ebay and just "bolt" that on with some better injectors and plug it in??? That way I was keeping it fuel injected, didnt have to screw with mounts, sensors, oil pan etc. I'm sure I'll still have a few things that need to be modified to make this all come together but would still like to keep it fairly simple.
Also, does anyone have a good used rotating assembly for a 408W maybe minus the pistons? lol
 

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I heard the Boss 302 pistons were the ones to use for the Cleveland heads with a stroker setup but thats why I'm here, looking to see what length rods, piston height and stroke will fit in a Windsor block with Cleveland heads.
I guess I was thinking I could buy the Clevor intake setup I found on ebay and just "bolt" that on with some better injectors and plug it in??? That way I was keeping it fuel injected, didnt have to screw with mounts, sensors, oil pan etc. I'm sure I'll still have a few things that need to be modified to make this all come together but would still like to keep it fairly simple.
Also, does anyone have a good used rotating assembly for a 408W maybe minus the pistons? lol
low cost 393 with Cleveland heads is easy to put together . for under $850 for parts..... crank , rods , rings & forged F/T pistons.
Thats for a W block
 

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Discussion Starter #15
low cost 393 with Cleveland heads is easy to put together . first need a set 302C rods
Well what do you recommend I build up using the most of the parts I have? A have a complete (minus intake and carb) 1972 351C, a short block .060 351W (1989?) with flat tops, aftermarket cam but I dont know the numbers on it (I'm the third owner after the rebuild 0hrs), rebuild-able 351M and a rebuild-able .020 over 400M. I wanna keep my budget between $1,000-$2,000 keeping in mind I can get machining done for next to nothing and I love buying stuff on craigslist, ebay and here. Like I said I would really like to keep the Windsor block in there and keep the EFI, 300-400HP, low end torque and streetable. Help me DanH!!!! Thanks!
 

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Well what do you recommend I build up using the most of the parts I have? A have a complete (minus intake and carb) 1972 351C, a short block .060 351W (1989?) with flat tops, aftermarket cam but I dont know the numbers on it (I'm the third owner after the rebuild 0hrs), rebuild-able 351M and a rebuild-able .020 over 400M. I wanna keep my budget between $1,000-$2,000 keeping in mind I can get machining done for next to nothing and I love buying stuff on craigslist, ebay and here. Like I said I would really like to keep the Windsor block in there and keep the EFI, 300-400HP, low end torque and streetable. Help me DanH!!!! Thanks!
W blocks 85 and after Till Maybe the roller cam blocks . I wouldn't use for performance (note that "I woudnt") any of the 70's very early 80's is OK To build a Clevor , say you need a unbored earlier block .

EFI can be done on a Clevor .. Cheap .. better way to say it is very low cost
 

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Discussion Starter #17
W blocks 85 and after Till Maybe the roller cam blocks . I wouldn't use for performance (note that "I woudnt") any of the 70's very early 80's is OK To build a Clevor , say you need a unbored earlier block .

EFI can be done on a Clevor .. Cheap .. better way to say it is very low cost
Why unbored, do I want to run standard bore? I think I have two late 70's W blocks available. Stroke one of those to a 393 or 408 and stack my C heads on top with the Clevor EFI intake setup? What lb injectors, cam, C/R would you recommend?

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why unbored . well built engines don't use worn out bores .

C/R , what do you want to pay for fuel ? this should have been known

cam , another should have been known , fuel grade and rpm range will spec the cam

inj. size & ECM , depends on HP wanted

what it boils down to ... a package of parts that work well together

there is way more knowledge on EFI tech/EFI systems set up on the forum . First comes to mind is (PSIG) Dave ., maybe he will stop by
 

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with todays aftermarket heads for the W a Clevor build would be silly...

The cleveland heads need work, the stock valve like to brake (3 groove)
need pistons for the cantered valves
Intake or adapters
Machine work......
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

I built one if you need and pics or help I got some...
 

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with todays aftermarket heads for the W a Clevor build would be silly...

The cleveland heads need work, the stock valve like to brake (3 groove)
need pistons for the cantered valves
Intake or adapters
Machine work......
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

I built one if you need and pics or help I got some...
"SILLY" you say so . Do price out a stroker kit 383 or 408 with aftermarket heads for $1000. OP did say $1k to $2k , but I don't know if thats for the entire build .
BTW I still like the valve breakage B/S . BTW ll , don't buy glass windows , they break
 
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