[Hensondt]

I’m buying a used 351W soon and was wondering if someone could help me come up with a list of parts to build it to around the 500 rwhp mark. I plan on swapping it in a fox body mustang and already know the parts for that, I just wanna figure out what parts I need to get a bone stock 5.8 to the 500 rwhp range. Thanks

 

[rickyracer1983]

I’m buying a used 351W soon and was wondering if someone could help me come up with a list of parts to build it to around the 500 rwhp mark. I plan on swapping it in a fox body mustang and already know the parts for that, I just wanna figure out what parts I need to get a bone stock 5.8 to the 500 rwhp range. Thanks

Sorry, you ain't goin get a bone stock 351W to 500HP. Speed costs money and HP costs parts, how fast do you want to go?
You want that much HP at the rear wheels, go stroker 460 with alum heads. It'll fit, no problem.

 

[Hensondt]

Sorry, you ain't goin get a bone stock 351W to 500HP. Speed costs money and HP costs parts, how fast do you want to go?
You want that much HP at the rear wheels, go stroker 460 with alum heads. It'll fit, no problem.

What I’m asking is what can I do to the block of o get it there. I understand I can’t keep the same internals or heads or anything I was just wondering what parts do I need to replace for the 351W block to get it there

 

[rickyracer1983]

What I’m asking is what can I do to the block of o get it there. I understand I can’t keep the same internals or heads or anything I was just wondering what parts do I need to replace for the 351W block to get it there

You said 351W, meaning the whole engine,IMO. The block itself, no more then .300" over, block filler up to the bottom of the core plugs. Mains with ARP studs and a stud girdle. Studs in the heads and mag the whole block for anything wrong with it. What year is the block and what did it come out of?
You'll find cam/intake, carb, ignition and especially heads are where the HP/TQ is. Plan on either a 393 or 408 stroker and that shouldn't be to hard to get to.

 

[Hensondt]

I don’t wanna bore it. If I just replaced stock internals with forged, put AFR heads on, an edelbrock dual carb/intake setup, and put long tube headers on how much horse do you think I would achieve? And if that’s not enough is there any way to reach 500 without boring it?

 

[Iowan]

Good luck

 

[rickyracer1983]

I don’t wanna bore it. If I just replaced stock internals with forged, put AFR heads on, an edelbrock dual carb/intake setup, and put long tube headers on how much horse do you think I would achieve? And if that’s not enough is there any way to reach 500 without boring it?

Boring it gives the rings a new clean surface to seal to. Otherwise you're risking losing HP to ring seal lose. Good heads right cam and a turbo.
Just throwing parts at it will get you HP but not the way and as much as you're looking for.

 

[Hensondt]

Boring it gives the rings a new clean surface to seal to. Otherwise you're risking losing HP to ring seal lose. Good heads right cam and a turbo.
Just throwing parts at it will get you HP but not the way and as much as you're looking for.

So could you or someone on here give me a list of parts to buy and things to do to it to get there

 

[rickyracer1983]

So could you or someone on here give me a list of parts to buy and things to do to it to get there

To answer that question, you first have to know your wallets pain level? It's also a complete package, from the radiator to the rear wheels. Suspension, rearend, trans, tires, all of it. 1000HP under the hood don't mean dodo if you can't put it to the ground. Then you have to be able to stop it.

 

[Hensondt]

To answer that question, you first have to know your wallets pain level? It's also a complete package, from the radiator to the rear wheels. Suspension, rearend, trans, tires, all of it. 1000HP under the hood don't mean dodo if you can't put it to the ground. Then you have to be able to stop it.

I understand that. My budget is around 7-8k. I'm not going for a 1000hp drag monster. I'm going for a 400-500hp streetble car and i cruise around in in the summer or weekend and still dust people. I will get some race brakes and coilover suspension as well as better wheels and tires, but the first thing im going to do is build up the motor. Im a high schooler so I wanna get this total project done for under 10k. So what im asking is what parts do I need to get a 351W to at least 450 rwhp without boring the motor?

 

[GT350HR]

With that budget buy a 408 or 427 (W) crate engine and be done with it. A 600HP ( about 500 wheel) 351W isn't going to be "streetable" unless boosted. Even a 408 or 427 will be marginally streetable at that power level. My own perfectly streetable 408 makes 480 at the flywheel on 87 octane and has for the last 6 years. Now I want 700 flywheel on 91 octane and am building a 545Ci 460 to do just that. It will be marginal on the street and not suitable for "cross country " trips.

 

[rickyracer1983]

Ok then. By the way, this isn't some H/S project for a grade is it? Just wondering. Or someone piss you off (like they did me in H/S), and now I'm going to beat their ass?
First off, where are you located at? Many people here willing to help if they know the neck of the woods you're in. Especially young ones like yourself. We're a disappearing bleed.
Rear end, $2K= 9" 3.70-3.90 gears with posi. $2K (appx) TKO or stronger 5 spd trans, (I prefer a beefed up C-4, you don't miss shifts and less linkage to play with) , engine, I'd start with the M-6010-BOSS35195 (standard bore) block. About $2,400 on sale+ shipping. strong to handle it. 387 cub stroker kit (standard bore), ESP 16526000 summit appx $1300. Heads Flo-tek 203-505 assembled $900, Get a roller cam kit Howard CL222725-10 appx $770, Pref RMP, 750 Holley, electronic ignition system, (I prefer ACCEL). Headers, Appx $500 depending on size style manufacturer, AND A 6PT ROLL CAGE appx $350, frame stiffeners, suspension upgrades (tubular cross member, a-arms, 4 link parts in the back, front coil overs, radiator, hoses, wiring, etc, etc, etc. Then add in appx $500 for machine work to check and clean up all the parts you, another $150 for balancing, starter $250, $500 for flywheel, clutch setup. Fuel cell, fuel lines/pump.
Prices vary depending on where I get them from and dickering sometimes.
The tubular front ends takes about 75 lbs right off the front end and makes it much easier to work on. Stronger to. Get rid of any power steering and power brake system, make them both manual. More weight to haul and if the engine fails, so do they. Gut the interior and fiberglass seats for more weight gone.
Add about $2,000-$5,000 more, by the time you're done. This is just some of the thing's I'd do, if it was me. 100 different people will give 300 different ways they'd do it with different parts due to personal preferences.

 

[Hensondt]

Ok then. By the way, this isn't some H/S project for a grade is it? Just wondering. Or someone piss you off (like they did me in H/S), and now I'm going to beat their ass?
First off, where are you located at? Many people here willing to help if they know the neck of the woods you're in. Especially young ones like yourself. We're a disappearing bleed.
Rear end, $2K= 9" 3.70-3.90 gears with posi. $2K (appx) TKO or stronger 5 spd trans, (I prefer a beefed up C-4, you don't miss shifts and less linkage to play with) , engine, I'd start with the M-6010-BOSS35195 (standard bore) block. About $2,400 on sale+ shipping. strong to handle it. 387 cub stroker kit (standard bore), ESP 16526000 summit appx $1300. Heads Flo-tek 203-505 assembled $900, Get a roller cam kit Howard CL222725-10 appx $770, Pref RMP, 750 Holley, electronic ignition system, (I prefer ACCEL). Headers, Appx $500 depending on size style manufacturer, AND A 6PT ROLL CAGE appx $350, frame stiffeners, suspension upgrades (tubular cross member, a-arms, 4 link parts in the back, front coil overs, radiator, hoses, wiring, etc, etc, etc. Then add in appx $500 for machine work to check and clean up all the parts you, another $150 for balancing, starter $250, $500 for flywheel, clutch setup. Fuel cell, fuel lines/pump.
Prices vary depending on where I get them from and dickering sometimes.
The tubular front ends takes about 75 lbs right off the front end and makes it much easier to work on. Stronger to. Get rid of any power steering and power brake system, make them both manual. More weight to haul and if the engine fails, so do they. Gut the interior and fiberglass seats for more weight gone.
Add about $2,000-$5,000 more, by the time you're done. This is just some of the thing's I'd do, if it was me. 100 different people will give 300 different ways they'd do it with different parts due to personal preferences.

I appreciate the offer. I live near the twin cities in Minnesota and I’m on high school so I can’t spend more then 10 grand by the time I’m done. Right now I’m looking to build up the motor first so if I could get a list of motor parts that would be great

 

[Iowan]

I don't know what your thing is for a stock bore, you don't bore it for new pistons you're wasting money and time.

 

[Hensondt]

I don't know what your thing is for a stock bore, you don't bore it for new pistons you're wasting money and time.

I could probably bore it 30 over. After that what all parts should I buy? Also would I need it decked or something. I kind of need a step by step list of what I should do and buy when building this motor. Thanks I cannot afford a crate motor so this is what I have to work with

 

[rickyracer1983]

I could probably bore it 30 over. After that what all parts should I buy? Also would I need it decked or something. I kind of need a step by step list of what I should do and buy when building this motor. Thanks I cannot afford a crate motor so this is what I have to work with

Homework assignment, hated those to, Power Secrets (Smokey Yunick), Engine Blueprinting (Rick Voegelin). I say find a good used 351W block and bore it .030". Even a new block will require machine work almost like a used one. Besides, a used block $250-$500 depending. That's a lot to save on what yo can spend on other parts.

 

[Iowan]

Google 351 stoker kit's for a forged rotating assembly. You will need good heads, make sure there up to the cam you decide on. If your going for 600 hp your going to need good parts through out the engine, I would think your only going to use the block and timing cover from the 351, the rest will be new parts.

 

[Iowan]

Here is where I would start with a 600 hp build.

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[Hensondt]

Homework assignment, hated those to, Power Secrets (Smokey Yunick), Engine Blueprinting (Rick Voegelin). I say find a good used 351W block and bore it .030". Even a new block will require machine work almost like a used one. Besides, a used block $250-$500 depending. That's a lot to save on what yo can spend on other parts.

Not a “homework assignment” I’ve been wanting to do this for a while and been saving my money. I wanna build up this old 351 we got sitting around and then throw it in a fox body mustang

 

[rickyracer1983]

Not a “homework assignment” I’ve been wanting to do this for a while and been saving my money. I wanna build up this old 351 we got sitting around and then throw it in a fox body mustang

If you have torn it apart to see what you have, better do that before you do anything. It might be trash already and nothing to work with.
Homework assignment, because just jumping into this without any idea, is going to not have a happy ending.
Personally, a mild BBF 523 stroker will get you where you're trying to be. Sell the 351 and use that extra money on a BBF. BBFs make HP easy and fast. 600HP out of a BBF, will be easier to do and less maintenance just driving it around town, then a SBF with the same HP. And they both fit in there.