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I am currently building a 351W (3.85)Stroker. I have purchased some standard 351W H-beam rods. From my understanding the rods are not going to clear the bottom side of the cylinder. I understand that you have to make some sort of groove. Well..The machine shop that is boring my engine right now doesn't know if they can do that for me (I don't know why). Is this easy to do by yourself and are there any specs/articles on doing this?

Thanks!
 

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It isn't any big thing, and with H-beams, you might not have to do it at all. The interference occurs more commonly with stock-type rods with bolts as opposed to the capscrews used in h-beams.
Just do a trial assembly one pair of rods at a time and move the crank around to see if there is interference. If there is, mark the spots carefully and accurately with white paint to facilitate .100" clearance then disassemble and take the die grinder to it. No big deal.
 

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I'm running an Eagle kit, (14127),= 418 cubes out of a 351W. Granted, it's got Eagle H beam rods, but I still had to 'clearance' the block. You basically put the crank in, install 1 piston, (leave rings off), and have a 'user' rod bearing set in. Turn the crank over, and see where it needs clearancing on all the different holes. I used a majic marker to 'spot' the areas. You have to do every hole. With my setup/stroker, I had to cut away a large portion near the oil pump casting as well. Plus the oil pump itself is REALLY close to the crank.

ANYTIME YOU DEVIATE FROM STOCK, YOU MUST CHECK CLEARANCES ON EVERYTHING. Over and over and over. That's the difference between an engine that makes power, and lasts, or one that just goes BOOM.


I wish I had a dollar for everytime we mocked up my engine assembly. Or for every time something ELSE didn't fit quite right, and the whole works had to come apart for more clearancing, and the required cleaning afterwards...........

TAKE YOUR TIME......DO IT RIGHT......THE FIRST TIME........ Been there, done that........(as of hundreds on this board)....
 

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No one, (and I mean NO ONE), shakes more than me. Especially when there's high buck stuff at risk. Just get a good die grinder, a good carbide bit, (a couple with different tips/shapes), and measure everything twice, and mark it good.
The block cuts easy as pie with the right cutters. Seriously. It's kinda fun when you get down to it. I deburred my complete block. (took off any high spots/casting ridges, smoothed everything). If nothing else, I don't get cut/slashed when I pick it up from almost any angle..........


Also, just remember to give everything a thorough cleaning before reassembly.
 

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None of my stock 351W dimension Eagle H-beam rods hit the bore bottoms with my 3.85" Scat crank but came close. I relieved the bore bottoms for mini9mum .050" clearance but the front counterweight will most likely contact the block where the oil pump mounts.
 
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