I'm in need of some advice regarding my engines freeze plugs. I have a '61 Starliner with a 352, there is one freeze plug on each side of the engine that is leaking, rotting away. Unfortunatly both of them are the ones behind the engine mounts. Anybody have advice on the best/easiest way to repair them without having to remove the engine? Thanks.
352 freeze plugs
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It isnt easy with the engine in, BUT it is doable. And if you are like most dont have the specialty tools that makes R&R ing easier. BUT You will have to take the engine mount out (1 side at a time). Place a 2X6X10-12" piece of lumber on a small floor jack (some ppl call them a trolley jack) take some weight off of the mount by jacking then engine up by the oil pan with the board between jack and pan, un bolt the mount from the frame (if they are donut style or have 1 bolt/or nut into frame mount DONT jack engine yet ( i dont know if you have a donut/biscuit type mount or a captured mount) nut remove the nut from the mount. (it could be pointing UP towards engine and on engine bracket or pointing down going thru the frame brackt for the donut/biscuit mount) or it could have the other type of mount that has a bolt and nut running parallel with the engine/frame. but remove them which ever one you have, then carefully start jacking uo the engine until the mount can be removed, then unbolt the bracket/mount from engine block to gain somewhat of an access to the leaking plug. Using a hammer and chisel hammer the old plug untill it gets turned sideways in the hole then grip with either channel locks or vice grips and pull it out. Hammer it on its "edge" if yo can actually see it if its not all grimed/oiled up. (brake clean can help clean the area of grease build up then install one of these (in proper size of course and NOT overtightening)
reverse procedure putting mount back on, move to other side and repeat. Dont try to jack it to the moon either, just high enough to get it all apart. (can stress/break) the mount on the fastened side if you do jack it very high. I ran a WHOLE set of these at one time in a very abused winndsor and NEVER lost/popped one and they never leaked. (10 years) and I mean abused 7800+ rpm shifts ALOT.
HTH
BTW they are avail at any box store.... ie auto zone pep boys oreilleys etc... They are a dorman poduct. This pic was 'borrowed" from autozone .co
MRO
What is that size you describe?
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This from autozone.com :
Part Number: 02603
Notes: 1 1/2" - 1 5/8" (38mm - 41mm) quick seal rubber
Dorman freeze plug
Brand item
Even this was a slightly different car than what you have the application is the same on all FE engines (unless you have screw in FP's)
HERE is the link to what i looked up/at/
HTH
MRO
Something to think about:
If one is bad odds are the other ones are going bad.
I have a FORD van that I've replaced two in this year. Well now another one is leaking so I'm having ALL them replaced this week.
I'm going to Houston tomorrow and couldn't take a chance at driving it and having it blow out downtown Houston leaving me in 4 lanes of traffic.
Rental car here I come. Don't want to go in my 67 Galaxie or my other Ford van.
If one is bad odds are the other ones are going bad.
I have a FORD van that I've replaced two in this year. Well now another one is leaking so I'm having ALL them replaced this week.
I'm going to Houston tomorrow and couldn't take a chance at driving it and having it blow out downtown Houston leaving me in 4 lanes of traffic.
Rental car here I come. Don't want to go in my 67 Galaxie or my other Ford van.
Leaking is not like blowing. When one blows, every drop of water in your car is gone in 60 seconds. You never know what hit you till the engine starts freezing up.
I installed a low pressure switch on my intake and wired it to a dash warning light, though have not had occasion to test it.
I installed a low pressure switch on my intake and wired it to a dash warning light, though have not had occasion to test it.
That's a good idea on the switch if it works.
What most people don't realize is that if a plug is leaking from rust it only looks like a small hole BUT when you remove the plug you will see a lot more rust on the inside of the plug with THIN metal. That right there tells you that the plug could blow at anytime.
I've been told the rubber plugs are only good for a year or so.
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Not here to dispute and have heard the same over the years, but the ones I used lasted 10. (used 3 of them) (Just as pictured, same brand etc) After engine expired, (not heat nor cooling related) when removed, All I did was take a half inch wrench removed them from the block and tossed them into my toolbox. (yep they were still usable)
But would be a good idea to keep an eye on them (what can be seen if any anyways) Watching to make sure they arent pushing out... Another thing I had done was paint the back side of it with a couple coats of decent spray paint. Cant remember but think it was Krylon.
Yeah, that could be the mechanic's way of JOB SECURITY telling that about the plugs.
I'm the unlucky one that neither the expandable brass freeze plugs nor expandable rubber ones worked on, tried both, ended up paying to have my engine pulled and new ones installed. The temp ones left leaks I couldn't resolve, which concerned me they'd blow out at some point.
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Oh boy..... what a turn of events....
Never mind SSCSURF, dont use the "temporary" fix (as it IS actually meant to be) and fix it correctly. And use the Brass frost plugs as you MIGHT get longer life out of them. I dont want to go against the "do it right the first time crowd".
I'm out.
Never mind SSCSURF, dont use the "temporary" fix (as it IS actually meant to be) and fix it correctly. And use the Brass frost plugs as you MIGHT get longer life out of them. I dont want to go against the "do it right the first time crowd".
I'm out.
Oh of course I'm with MrOld. In fact I suggest tapping all the openings and then installing some screw-in core plugs.
Of course you would have to have the engine pulled and driven to the machine shop but $500 later you know you would have "Done it right." Hey! even better, take it to a welder and get the plugs welded in there. Now that's doing it right.Whatever you do, don't try anything yourself. Fixing your own car is like operating on your own child - you wouldn't do that, would you? ALWAYS consult and depend on the professionals, the best machine shops and the very best equipment, tools and parts. This is your child we are talking about. NEVER get information from books, friends, and especially this forum and they try something on your own. These people have no idea and are here just for the money. Only disaster awaits fool DIY'ers
Hopefully that 'bout covers the way some people feel about fixing up old Galaxies
Just the reamer, tap and plugs would cost that much.
Sure. Steel expansion plugs and welding rod never rust. How much will it cost the next go around?
Here's a thought. Why not just service the cooling system on a regular basis and there would be no corrosive problems. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. That is why they make prophylactics.
You have nothing better to do? Your homework done?
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I tried the rubber ones once and the darn thing was messed up and wouldn't tighten so went and found the regular types. If you toss them in the freezer for a while (the metal ones) they will shrink and you can pop them right in there. Learned that after spending an hour fighting with one in the same location on a friends car in Spain. The the other friends husband who was a hydraulics guy on the planes asked why i didn't put them in the freezer like they do some of the seals on the planes. Twenty minutes in the freezer, 5 mins under the car and bam!, done just like that! Wish i'd known that 2 hrs earlier!
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LOL shot, but a good tid bit of advice. Filed away for future reference, so when I get SOMEONE elses non-coolant seviced vehicle and it has corroded frost plugs, I can do it the correct way the first time. ( i even have a source for dry ice which as you know is much cooler than any freezer can get that is accessable, and wouldnt take 20-30 minutes of shrinkage, more like 3-5 minutes... )
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