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Discussion Starter #1
I have the intake at 0 degrees (level) but the TKO is still at about 5 degrees. I think I read that the TKO has to be mounted as close to level as possible but even at 5 degrees, the output shaft is pointing to the very top of the driveline tunnel (the tunnel in the frame X member on convertible. )


Does anyone know how important the angle of the TKO is? I'd like it better if I could drop the rear a little but the TKO would be at a steeper angle.


Picture 1 is the engine angle
Picture 2 is the trans angle


I'm ordering a slip yoke so I can mount a driveline before I built the trans crossmember.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
trans should be at the same angle as the engine. intake has a rake so the carb levels
Well they are bolted together so the engine and the trans are at the same angle. I understand the angles will change when the car is done (and when I sit in it) Do I need to worry about the angles at all? The only thing I know for sure is that you don't want an absolute straight drive line.

Do I need to level the frame with the floor and then make everything level?
 

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Ford stock driveline angle is 3 degrees tail low, ignore the intake, no two version of them are alike, use your angle finder on the yoke and compare it to the yoke on the rear axle. The problem is, 3 degrees down from what? It's hard to level a frame accurately, but if the bottom edge of the frame has a straight part, put it at zero, and 3 degrees tail down will be close.

Generally, the yoke is 1-2 degrees flatterr than the tranny, under load they become closer to parallel with axle wrap
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you. I wasmisunderstanding. I thought the transangle was important but now after reading this, I checked online and found thatit is the driveline angle that is important.
I will try to level the frame which will be good as I canlift the car where I want it to work under it. I noticed that slip yokes are 1330 and I think the stock pinion yoke is1310. I am ordering a 1330 pinion yoke,1330 slip yoke and I will rig something between them to measure the drivelineangle (my friend suggested 2x2 piece of wood.
Enjoy my artwork. LOL
 

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I think you are on the right track, but let me write it another way to make sure

1 - When under full acceleration, you need the rear axle input (pinion) and the tranny output to be on the same angle.
2 - At that point you need some angle of the driveshaft to allow u-joints to do their job
3 - You will likely have to accept some micmatch between the rear axle and the tranny, that allws for the pinion to rotate upwards during acceleration
4 - The angle of the driveshaft itself is less of an issue at the length of your setup, where it gets dicey is if its way too long, or way too short

My technique for measuring the output shaft is to slide the yoke in and put the angle took across the area that holds the ujoint, it wont stay there, but you can get a measurement. An even better way nowadays is an IPhone on the compass app there is an angle option

Another way to measure the tranny angle is off the front of the head. It's machined flat and you can stick your took to it, but you won't be able to see it when adding shims to drive the tranny upwards, if you don't mind crawling out, then its a good option, even the top of the valve cover is parallel to the crank and output shaft (just not the intake pad)

For the rear axle, after you level the frame and measure the tranny, put a floor jack and put weight on the rear axle just to the point that it barely wants to lift the frame. Then you know the weight is on it.

I would expect you'll end up with frame at zero, tranny at 3 degrees down, and rear axle at 0 to 1 degree up with weight on uit, that will end up at 3 degrees up under acceleration,
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Galaxiex, thanks. I just downloaded it. 427,I cannot thank you enough for your time. So this is what I am going to do. Level the frame as best I can. Mount the engine to the front mounts, raise and lower the rear of the trans to get the crank, head, whatever to as close to level with the frame as possible. The rear end is stock so I should not have to mess with that angle at all. I will then measure the angle of the slip yoke in the tranny and measure the angle of the pinion yoke of the rear end. I will also measure the angle of the drive shaft (going to mock one up with PVC pipe or a very straight piece of wood until I buy one). I'll get back with you then. I'll also use the Tremec app and let you know what that says.
 

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I assume you are saying you will level the engine as a starting point, then drop the tail to make it 3 degrees down, correct?

There really is no reason to make the engine match the frame first, in fact, you likely will hit the floor before you do. Levelling the frame is only a tool to help you get to the right engine angle. In fact, you could have the frame at any angle, as long as you compare crank/tranny centerline angle to pinion angle and make them close under load, which means you allow for the pinion to rotate up a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I retire in December and I have been working a lot of overtime recently (mostly to buy car parts) so I have not been working on the car much. Last night however, I spent a few hours with the Tremec app and trying to get the angle correct. I had not been on here since my last post and I thought I was being told the engine should be at the same angle as the frame, which was giving me fits. as 427 said above ( I didn't see this until this morning) with the engine level with the frame, the tail shaft was sticking above the floor and the driveshaft was hitting on the x frame driveshaft tunnel. I abandoned the attempts to make the engine and frame on the same plane and lowered the tail shaft to what I thought looked right. Turns out that was 2 degrees down as 427 said. I'll make sure it's straight and level and all that junk and do my best to mae the mount hold it right where it is.
164221
 
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