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Hi guys.... Hope someone can help a "stupid" dane....

I have a 67 Galaxie 500, but it keeps overheating when I drive it. Well I don't know how much the temprature will rise, but at 210F-220F I'm stopping the motor and let it cool down, using only the electric fan.

I read in here, that the headgaskets could "be on wrong" I hope you undestand....

I pulled the passengerside head, and the waterjacket were sitting in the back at the motor, as it is supposed to... Then I pulled the left side... It was in the right way too :-(

Everything is new in this engine. Renovated heads, new valves, valverods, thermostat, big alu rediator, fan, shrout, waterpump, electric ignition... You name it. First I tryed to cool my way out of the problem, but I'm running out of ideas now - hope you can help me.

Søren Rasmussen, Denmark


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Hi guys.... Hope someone can help a "stupid" dane....

I have a 67 Galaxie 500, but it keeps overheating when I drive it. Well I don't know how much the temprature will rise, but at 210F-220F I'm stopping the motor and let it cool down, using only the electric fan.

I read in here, that the headgaskets could "be on wrong" I hope you undestand....

I pulled the passengerside head, and the waterjacket were sitting in the back at the motor, as it is supposed to... Then I pulled the left side... It was in the right way too :-(

Everything is new in this engine. Renovated heads, new valves, valverods, thermostat, big alu rediator, fan, shrout, waterpump, electric ignition... You name it. First I tryed to cool my way out of the problem, but I'm running out of ideas now - hope you can help me.

Søren Rasmussen, Denmark


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hello . it may be bored out too far so it needs a bigger rad or fan . . how far is it bored? . . remove vacuum advance and check timing at idle and 1600 rpm and total timing and the rpm it reaches total timing.
.
 

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What's your timing set at, both initial and full?

Does it overheat while you're at cruising speed or during stop and go city traffic?

Do you have an air conditioning condenser or transmission cooler in front of the radiator? What type of electric fan do you have?

How hot is the outside air temperature when it is overheating?

What pressure radiator cap do you have?

What ratio of water/antifreeze are you using?

These questions may help narrow down the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
What's your timing set at, both initial and full?

Does it overheat while you're at cruising speed or during stop and go city traffic?

Do you have an air conditioning condenser or transmission cooler in front of the radiator? What type of electric fan do you have?

How hot is the outside air temperature when it is overheating?

What pressure radiator cap do you have?

What ratio of water/antifreeze are you using?

These questions may help narrow down the issue.

I don't remember what the timing is at. I had my US-friend set it for my - but my "number-list" (don't know the english word) on pulley dosn't seem to be right. I put the piston 1 at the top position, with the head off and it says 10 degrees at the pulley. Now we know this when the motor is put back together.

It overheats the most when I'm cruising. I stay FAR away from city traffic :)

Yes, I have a transmission cooler in the front. But it's put as far to the right as possible. It dosn't block for the air flow - if that was what you were thinking :)

I can't remember the name of the electric fan. But it's bought in the US as one of the most powerfull ones. There are no doubt, that this fan does the job great. It pulls SO much air through the radiator, that I can put my hand on the radiator with the water at 200F, without burning my fingers (on the outside, in front of the fan). When it gets hot, and I stop the enigine. The fan cooles it down in 5-10 min.

The radiator cap says 1.1 on it. I haven't ever had it to.... What do you say.... Go off? :) But I have "shot" the radiatorhoses several times with a laser termometer, to see if the gauge is off. But both the gauge and the termometer says allmost the same.

I mix water and antifreese 50/50 in the coolingsystem. If that's what you mean?

The temp. here in Denmark dosn't come over 86F.


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Discussion Starter #5
hello . it may be bored out too far so it needs a bigger rad or fan . . how far is it bored? . . remove vacuum afvance and check timing at idke . 1600 rpm . ant tital timing.

Hi. I have put a very big alu radiator in it. As big as it gets without cutting in the car.
The engine isn't bored. It has very few miles on it. Only the heads are renovated, pressuere tested and everything. Well and the camshaft, valves, rods and so on.

It has been driven without the vacuum advance so far. Is that bad? I see a lot of US cars with the vacuum advance disconnected..... :-/


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I suggest checking your timing. Make sure you are around 10-15 degrees BTDC at idle with a total of 35-38 by 2800 rpm. Hook up your vacuum advance so during cruise, you have the added advance which will make the engine run cooler.

Another thing to check is your water pump flow and radiator cap. The cap should hold at least 13 psi pressure.

Here in Dubai, the air temps are currently 40 C and my FE352, .030 over doesn't run hotter than 205F in traffic. Cools downs to 180-190F when moving.


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Hi. I have put a very big alu radiator in it. As big as it gets without cutting in the car.
The engine isn't bored. It has very few miles on it. Only the heads are renovated, pressuere tested and everything. Well and the camshaft, valves, rods and so on.

It has been driven without the vacuum advance so far. Is that bad? I see a lot of US cars with the vacuum advance disconnected..... :-/


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hello;

we need a LOT more info.

the engine is 50 years old and you are saying it has never been rebuilt?

does it run hot in traffic?

does it run hot above 60 kph?

EXACTLY what fan is on it? most likely it is chinese or korean, in which case it is most likely flowing only half the air they claim.

"big radiator" means nothing. exactly what rad is it?

now many rows deep is it?

how deep are the rows, ie., 1/2", 3/4", 1"?

if it is chinese like a champion it is not "big". they hold 20 to 40% less water than a us made one.

has it dsone t,f
 

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At the risk of confusing and/or asking questions to answers I've missed:

1.1 on the cap should be plenty of pressure; that's like a 16 PSI cap; which is over the original spec but not a problem with a well built engine.

50/50 water/glycol coolant is fine. Unless the timing is really fouled up, you should run the vacuum advance, no use using more fuel than you have to.

Doesn't the electric fan come on automatically say at about 200 degrees? But, even it it does, assuming cruising is less than 120 KM/hour, it should probably be running 190-200 without the fan. So, besides timing it sounds like insufficient coolant flow caused by something simple like an air bubble and/or at speed, the lower hose is collapsing, impeding the cooler fluid from getting back to the water pump; like this:
https://www.nationalpartsdepot.com/flipbook/Mustang-65-73/#p=115

All of my Fords have always have a spring in them to prevent this. I assume you have at least as big of a radiator as the original; i.e., that's it is as wide as the original.

Given it cools with the fan, it's either timing or insufficient coolant flow.
Good luck and keep posting.

Edit: How many miles on this new "build"?; this thread made me think of you:
http://www.network54.com/Forum/74182/thread/1407032176/432+Overheating
(FYI - this board is VERY focused on VERY high performance (i.e., drag racing) - so it may or may not help.
 

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hello;

we can not properly help you without the fan info and timing info.

post a few photos of the fan maybe we can tell.

if you buy a Lincoln MK VII fan and better rad, it will cool better without a doubt and without more info, this is all I can recommend.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
At the risk of confusing and/or asking questions to answers I've missed:

1.1 on the cap should be plenty of pressure; that's like a 16 PSI cap; which is over the original spec but not a problem with a well built engine.

50/50 water/glycol coolant is fine. Unless the timing is really fouled up, you should run the vacuum advance, no use using more fuel than you have to.

Doesn't the electric fan come on automatically say at about 200 degrees? But, even it it does, assuming cruising is less than 120 KM/hour, it should probably be running 190-200 without the fan. So, besides timing it sounds like insufficient coolant flow caused by something simple like an air bubble and/or at speed, the lower hose is collapsing, impeding the cooler fluid from getting back to the water pump; like this:
https://www.nationalpartsdepot.com/flipbook/Mustang-65-73/#p=115

All of my Fords have always have a spring in them to prevent this. I assume you have at least as big of a radiator as the original; i.e., that's it is as wide as the original.

Given it cools with the fan, it's either timing or insufficient coolant flow.
Good luck and keep posting.

Edit: How many miles on this new "build"?; this thread made me think of you:
http://www.network54.com/Forum/74182/thread/1407032176/432+Overheating
(FYI - this board is VERY focused on VERY high performance (i.e., drag racing) - so it may or may not help.

Hi. Yes the fan starts automatically at 190F and cruising here in the country side is 50-80km/h (35-50 miles pr. hour).

Funny thing is. If I start up with a cold engine and let it idle. The temp. will rise to 190F, start fan and then drop allmost to 180F. But if I drive the car, temp. won't drop.

My next idea is to remove one (or a couple) of these metal plates (antifreese-things, I don't know what they are called in english - but we call them frostpropper :)) and take a look inside the block, to see if it is full with rust or whatever..... Something that could disturb the waterflow.....




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Hang in there Søren!
You mean core plugs also known as freeze plugs? Wow that's painful; you should be able to ensure the block (and heater?) are sufficiently flushed without removing plugs from the block...

You'll figure it out.
Good luck.
 

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You said you have a very big radiator in the car.

Just a little thing to think about.
A friend of mine many years ago had an overheating 351. He did everything prior to this, including a large and thick radiator.
After lots of sorting out with no success, it turned out that the radiator was too thick to pass air through it. No air, no effective cooling.

I would suggest to test it with a sheet of paper in front of the radiator. If the paper sucks towards the radiator, then it is OK and pulls the air through it.
 

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You said you have a very big radiator in the car.

Just a little thing to think about.
A friend of mine many years ago had an overheating 351. He did everything prior to this, including a large and thick radiator.
After lots of sorting out with no success, it turned out that the radiator was too thick to pass air through it. No air, no effective cooling.

I would suggest to test it with a sheet of paper in front of the radiator. If the paper sucks towards the radiator, then it is OK and pulls the air through it.
Yes, a radiator with 2 1" tubes is better than 4 tubes smaller and more tightly packed. I've rarely heard of anyone with a 4 core radiator doing better than 3, tho' now that I've said that, I'm sure I'll be proven wrong ...
:bow:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I have a 2 core aluradiator and a 16 inch fan in it and I tryed the papertrick. It seems OK, the paper stayed at the radiator without a doubt :)

I didn't remove the core plugs (thank you for teaching me the name). Instead I took as musch as possible water out of the block and put a endograf camera down the waterjackets. The block seems just as clean as the heads.

I'am very gratefull for all the replies :) Thank you

We are putting the motor back together today. Next step will be trying to adjust the timing.... agian !

I read in another forum, that someone recommended to loop the heater hoses to a similar problem... Is that a joke? What should that help?


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I have a 2 core aluradiator and a 16 inch fan in it and I tryed the papertrick. It seems OK, the paper stayed at the radiator without a doubt :)

I didn't remove the core plugs (thank you for teaching me the name). Instead I took as musch as possible water out of the block and put a endograf camera down the waterjackets. The block seems just as clean as the heads.

I'am very gratefull for all the replies :) Thank you

We are putting the motor back together today. Next step will be trying to adjust the timing.... agian !

I read in another forum, that someone recommended to loop the heater hoses to a similar problem... Is that a joke? What should that help?


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I think looping the heater hoses is to take the interior heater core out service. This is usually done to avoid replacing a leaking heater core when you don't need heat in the passenger compartment, but I don't see how that would help an overheating engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I think looping the heater hoses is to take the interior heater core out service. This is usually done to avoid replacing a leaking heater core when you don't need heat in the passenger compartment, but I don't see how that would help an overheating engine.

No exactly my idea too. Actually I se it as an advantage that I can pull some heat OUT of the engine in stead.

I took it for a spin this afternoon. Weather was cooling down a little when I got done putting it together. Drove for half an hour on country roads with temp. changing from 190-200F.

So now I'm looking foreward to see how it goes on a hot day.


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Great progress sir!
Yes, your idea is correct; it's an "old school" trick for an overheating ride to open the heater vents for plenty of air to flow around the heater core, enabling some amount of heat to dissipate from the flowing coolant...
 

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No exactly my idea too. Actually I se it as an advantage that I can pull some heat OUT of the engine in stead.

I took it for a spin this afternoon. Weather was cooling down a little when I got done putting it together. Drove for half an hour on country roads with temp. changing from 190-200F.

So now I'm looking foreward to see how it goes on a hot day.
what thermostat rating was that with?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
By the way guys, I'm very gratefull for all of your answers and ideas. But i have another question. How do you lower your classic?

I can't seem to buy lowering springs anywhere in Denmark or Sweden. You dont just cut or heat yours - do you?


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