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Hi. I have put a very big alu radiator in it. As big as it gets without cutting in the car.
The engine isn't bored. It has very few miles on it. Only the heads are renovated, pressuere tested and everything. Well and the camshaft, valves, rods and so on.

It has been driven without the vacuum advance so far. Is that bad? I see a lot of US cars with the vacuum advance disconnected..... :-/
hello;

unfortunately, unless you have installed a radiator that is made in the united states of americe, it is NOT the biggest rad you can fit in the stock position.

unless it has 4 rows of 1/2" tubes on 5/16" centers like some rads made in the usa it is NOT the biggest rad you can fit in the stock position.

unless the rad has a tripple pass core, it is NOT as efficient and cooling as well as it can be.

unless it has a high flow thermostat AND high flow water pump, it is likely NOT as efficient and cooling as well as i could be.



VACUUM ADVANCE

Don't know until you give us the info i asked for in post 2.

also need total timing with the vac adv connected.

also, when in the driveway, does the engine rough at around 1600 rpm with the vacuum adv connected?
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The thermostat opens at 180F. And the timing was set very low on this trip. So low there's a big loss of power.
it is also likely overheating because your thermostat rating is too low. i would install a 192 premium from stant or similar.

the more advanced the timing is just up a few degrees before it is "too much" will help reduce temps.

if you run timing that is far less than the engine can tolerate it will cause it to runn hotter than it should.

basically, you can MELT [seriously damage] your engine if the timing is too low, no joke.
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By the way guys, I'm very gratefull for all of your answers and ideas. But i have another question. How do you lower your classic?

I can't seem to buy lowering springs anywhere in Denmark or Sweden. You dont just cut or heat yours - do you?
never, never, never, ever, ever, ever, cut or heat a stock spring. buy lowering springs. if they are stiff enough they can be cut.

for the rear leafs you can buy lowering blocks or "reverse eye" lowering springs.

if it has long shackles like some trucks, those can be lowered. it will lower your pinion and increase your pinion angle relative to the driveshaft slightly.
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