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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey there im new to the forum ,I had a question about my 392 stroker I recently got my car, it has an all new custom build engine, heres the thing right after build car sat for about 2yrs ,im thinking of doing an oil change but don't know if I should use reg. or synt. oil ,don't really know what weigth to use ,this is my first stroker engine so im really in the dark here ,don't want to mess it up. thanks in advance.
 

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Welcome to the forums! I assume this is a street engine? Unless you know theh history of it, then you would need to assume a few things. First, unless it was broken-in on a dyno or run-in hard for break-in within the first 20 minutes of running, do not use synthetic until you hit 5000 miles or so to ensure break-in and full ring seating. This is from the Hastings ring manufacturer:
1. Make a test run at 30 miles per hour and accelerate at full throttle to 50 miles per hour. Repeat the acceleration cycle from 30 to 50 miles per hour at least ten times. No further break-in is necessary. If traffic conditions will not permit this procedure, accelerate the engine rapidly several times through the intermediate gears during the check run. The object is to apply a load to the engine for short periods of time and in rapid succession soon after engine warm up. This action thrusts the piston rings against the cylinder wall with increased pressure and results in accelerated ring seating.
If this or similar procedure was not followed (or you are not sure), then it's too late to do it now, and you'll just have to wait for the rings to seat over time.

Which oil? Again, we need to know how the engine was built and with what clearances. Your engine builder would provide the best recommendation. If that is not possible, then the rule-of-thumb is to use the lightest oil that maintains oil pressure of 10 pounds per 1000 RPM when the engine is fully warmed. For most street performance engines, a 5W30 or 10W30 is a good place to start.

Because only RPM is needed to acheive oil pressure, you can test your warm pressure in your driveway. Rev to 3000 RPM and verify 30 psig of pressure. If you see more than that, drain 1 quart and add 1 quart of the lightest oil you can find (0W10, 0W20, etc.) and re-test. If the pressure moves closer to the target, you can judge what weight to use on the next change.

Likewise, if the warm pressure is low, swap a quart of 20W50 to see the effect. You do not want to run oil any thicker than necessary, as oil heavier than necessary does not cool the internal parts as well, and can overload the piston rings, oil pump, and distributor and cam gears. Racing engines that are spec'ed for heavy racing oils are specifically built for that oil. Do not use racing oils in street engines, as they do not use (or use as much) long-term additives that street engines need, such as detergents and anti-sludge additives. Racing oils are intended for maximum lubrication and cooling, but are also normally changed after each event, so the additives a street engine needs are not required.

Once you reach 5000 miles, you can switch to synthetic if you like, of the weight you determined by testing. HTH

David
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply,this is what i was told by my bud who i got the car from,his builder said that the motor didnt need to be broken in ,that it wasnt a crate motor ,engine has acouple of hundred miles sence built ,it has afr 58cc #142 alum. Heads ,dont know cam specs i imagine its something to match the heads and block, car sat for about 2+ yrs fully restored( what a waste) thats why i dont know what oil should i use
 

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Are the lifters roller or flat? I would think you'd want to find that out first. Flat lifters need the high zinc especially for break-in. A good petroleum 10-30 high in zinc would likely be a good place to start.
 

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I would start off thinking better safe than sorry if you dont know whats in the motor. So I would run rotella 15/40 and a pint of zinc additive to be safe at least for the first summers use....

there are other oils just as good if not better. rotella is very common and very good oil ... the zinc additive is just incase you have a flat tappet cam and its not fully broke in yet ...

good luck ...
 
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