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1964 Galaxie 500XL Q code
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Discussion Starter #1
Hello guys,

I'm going to be upgrading from the standard 153 tooth flywheel to the 184 tooth flywheel and run a power master starter.

Does anyone have any experience with doing this, and if so what clutch package did you use with a 1-3/8" input shaft on a top loader?

Its a bit tricky because there are so few options using the factory 11.5" friction plate. according to Summit, Centerforce has an option that works with the factory cast iron flywheel, but I really want to upgrade to a billet steel flywheel. Don't need and broken legs!

Any advice is greatly appreciated!
 

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You have two options, go with an 11 inch clutch or a 12 inch with an original Ford 11.5 inch bolt pattern. I use the Ford Racing flywheel because it has both bolt patterns. I would start there, then pick a McLeod or Ram clutch to match the HP and traction requirements of your car. If you post more details of the car, engine and use, I can help with real part numbers
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks so much!

This will be a 625hp 482ci solid roller engine. I'd rather go with a 184 tooth modern flywheel because I know Powermaster makes a starter for this.

I spoke with Centerforce and they have a set up that can support 500ft/lbs but Id like to find something a bit beefier.
 

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I’m not sure if they make it for your combination but I’m running a McLeod RXT twin disk. It should hold that power range no problem.
 

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First, get anything other than McLeod or Ram out of your head :) Someone will chime back in that CF is good,, but at that power and weight of the car, they just won't cut it. Additionally, don't even consider NOT going with a 184 tooth, it'd be silly to keep an old Bendix starter and lose your legs at the same time. FYI, I have run what you are doing in my Mustang since 1999, initially with a CJ clutch with a 427 big in/out, then later with McLeod and a 5 speed.

I do really like the a twin disk setup, but they are expensive. On my 482 I run a 12 inch diaphragm, but I don't recommend it as McLeod stopped using Kevlar discs that I liked and don't make a Long style pressure plate anymore for that application. I would go with a Ram Powergrip 11.5 pattern, 12 inch clutch.

One of my customers is doing the same on a 568 HP concours-hidden build in a 68.5 CJ. you can see the build in the tech section, and we are also doing a very similar thing on the all 520 hp iron build in a second 68.5 CJ (but it's a 26 spline Tremec TKO)

I am an engine builder and don't sell parts outright, but I can connect you to a good buddy at Lykins Motorsports who does also builds big inch FEs and has a good line with both Ram and McLeod, [email protected], far better than fishing with the big stores and likely the same price. He can get the Ford Motorsports flywheel too and it will all work great together
 

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Picked up a 61 Starliner that po made a 406 out of a 391ft. Came with 11in clutch (don't recall who made it) and 184 tooth ring gear. The engine is bolted to an older bellhousing that takes the longer style starter bendix. I'm using the newer style starter for the 184 tooth flywheel. I've had the car for a few years and being around Fords my whole life to me it never sounded right turning over. Last summer it started getting louder when cranking until the starter drive went fubar. Replaced the drive and it's working fine but still doesn't sound right. Haven't had time to get into it to see what the problem is. Working around that cast iron header is some of the holdup. One of these days I'll get into it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks so much for this info. It has been incredibly helpful.

Regarding engine plates, Were both the automatic and 4-speed versions the same? Naturally, I don't have one with the car and need to get my hands on one. There seems to be plenty out there labeled "Automatic" which leads me to believe there was a difference.
 

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plates, Were both the automatic and 4-speed versions the same? Naturally, I don't have one with the car and need to get my hands on one.
There may have been some slight differences, but they do interchange
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks! I appreciate all your help. Ended up going with a Ford motorsports flywheel and a Ram clutch per your recommendation. I wanted to go with a Ram clutch and flywheel but ram only had a 38 lb flywheel option and the factory one is 29lbs +/- Ford put a lighter flywheel in that car for a reason.

Cheers to quick acceleration!
 

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p. Ended up going with a Ford motorsports flywheel and a Ram clutch per your recommendation. I wanted to go with a Ram clutch and flywheel but ram
Well, as a guy who does a lot of strokers, I can't really say that anything your engine will do is the same as Ford intended. However, the torque a 482 will put out is an entirely different animal than anything Ford did, so your decision was smart just the same, you don't need a heavier flywheel, plus the Ford flywheel is a better deal IMHO

Did you buy it from Brent Lykins or somewhere else?

Last thing, with the Ford flywheel you should be fine, but look behind the crank flange when you install it. Some aftermarket bolts and/or flywheels let the flywheel bolts hit the crank, I haven't seen it with the Ford wheel, but they don't usually lock it up, they just rub and take out the thrust bearing. Bolt a couple of bolts up and look how far the threads are sticking out of the crank flange toward the block. Generally, they only have a thread or near nothing sticking out on the main cap side. You'll know it if they are too long because they can hit the rear main

What are the details on the 482? Did you build it or have it built? You can see a couple of my 428 strokers I did for others in the engine build tech section, and my own consist of a 489 inch 70 Mustang and a 461 inch 71 F100 4x4. Looking forward to hearing the results
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I appreciate you looking out! I ended up buying the flywheel somewhere else and had it shipped to my engine builder for balancing, and went with the RAM 98988 which is what the guys at Ram recommended. The engine shop is Carlquist Competition Engines in Oakville CT. I worked at this shop for 8 or so years but that was 14 years ago! Gosh, time flys! They have done truckloads of these 427's. They do all the engine and dyno work for these guys Cobra Automotive maybe you are familiar with them? The guys at the shop are good buds of mine and the owner's Bill and Michelle were like parents to me, Just great people. I will be flying back for the dyno session and cant wait! Of course, that's pending all this whole Corona BS... a topic for another day.

The engine details as of today are 4.25" stroke Scat crank. 4.250" bore. Scat H-beam rods, Pistons TBD.. but around 10.5:1, Trickflow heads and their single plane intake, Aviaid oil pan. Exact cam specs are TBD but going with a solid roller. I'm going to use the 2" primary Maddog headers for the sake of economy. I have built headers in the past (for my 68 f100) but decided by the time I buy all the stainless parts needed I'm at $700 and I still have to build them. I can always build a set down the road and right now I'm super motivated to get this thing on the road.

As far as the build goes, The frame is now all sandblasted and painted. I should have all the suspension in the car by this weekend (going with Ridetech) and hope to put the body back on the car ASAP. Then comes wiring and AC. I live in AZ so AC is a necessity if you really want to enjoy the car.

I currently have a 71' f 250 I finished last year. Its got a turd of a 360 in it but the kids and I have a good time getting ice cream in it! Reliving my old high school days.
 

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Nice toys! Funny how the truck is fun with the 360, my truck was a 445, and I decided to build a 461 inch EFI engine for it. In the interim, I put together a mild 390 4V, nothing fancy, just a nice little 325 hp streeter. That engine was a lot of fun for just cruising, in fact, I was reluctant to pull it out. However, the 461 is under the hood now, and should be running this weekend. It's built for a 5000 rpm peak and made 490 HP and 560-ish ft lbs, so it should be a mellow monster.

Good luck with the engines, I do know of Cobra Automotive, I have a good buddy in Danbury that used to work for them and a few of the other local Ford shops. You'll get a good engine from them, plenty of us that may have some other tricks up our sleeve, but 482 inches of FE, built reliably, with a decent set of heads will be a monster regardless of the builder
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Isn't it funny how the simple engines/ toys bring the most joy...?! That truck engine sounds like a lot of fun. Right out of high school I had a 77' f 250 with a 460 I had built back at the engine shop and same similar deal, Big torque and man that truck was fun! What EFI system did you use?

So I'm not getting the engine from Cobra Automotive (sorry if I was confusing). I'm using the same engine machine shop they do, and its the one I used to work at. They have a pretty stellar record with these FEs and having a previous relationship is worth the peace of mind. I'm super excited to get the engine underway.

Last night I got half the suspension in the car, and this weekend I'm hoping to get that wrapped up. I went with a Strange nodular iron center section, 35 spline with 3.70 gear, and a Truetrac locker. I'm going to press on the bearings at work, and hopefully, the rest of the suspension install goes smoothly.
 

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the simple engines/ toys bring the most joy...?! That truck engine sounds like a lot of fun. Right out of high school I had a 77' f 250 with a 460 I had built back at the engine shop and same similar deal, Big torque and man that truck was fun! What EFI system did you use?

So I'm not getting the engine from Cobra Automotive (sorry if I was confusing). I'm using the same engine machine shop they do, and its the one I use
Who is the machine shop? I know most of the guys who build FEs

My Mustang uses a modified Massflo system, runs a Factory Ford ECM with laptop control, the truck has a Edelbrock Pro-flo 4. The Mustang has all kinds of changes to make more power and is a real neat setup, but you couldn't buy it that way. The Edelbrock for the truck, I ported the Victor intake and added a second temp sensor bung so I could run stock gauges and the ECT sensor, but it otherwise as delivered. FYI though, the Edelbrock comes with small 36 lb injectors, for your engine you'd likely need to go 42-45 lb injectors.

I dyno'd the 461 with a carb, and its 490 HP @ 5000, didn't bother doing a lick of tuning other than find what it liked for timing knowing I was never really going to run the carb, but it should be strong. It's a baby compared to the Mustang

The next one for the Mustang is likely going to be a centrifugal supercharged EFI 482-505 depending where I decide to go. The problem is, like the turck, it runs too well for me to take it apart! LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Wow, what a busy week,

The machine shop is Carlquist Competition Engines in Oakville CT.

Your mustang sounds like its a lot of fun! There's no such thing as too much power.

I've got all the rear suspension in the car and the rear end assembled with the Wilwood brakes. I'm just waiting on the offset eliminator bolts to finish up the front end.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Who is the machine shop? I know most of the guys who build FEs

My Mustang uses a modified Massflo system, runs a Factory Ford ECM with laptop control, the truck has a Edelbrock Pro-flo 4. The Mustang has all kinds of changes to make more power and is a real neat setup, but you couldn't buy it that way. The Edelbrock for the truck, I ported the Victor intake and added a second temp sensor bung so I could run stock gauges and the ECT sensor, but it otherwise as delivered. FYI though, the Edelbrock comes with small 36 lb injectors, for your engine you'd likely need to go 42-45 lb injectors.

I dyno'd the 461 with a carb, and its 490 HP @ 5000, didn't bother doing a lick of tuning other than find what it liked for timing knowing I was never really going to run the carb, but it should be strong. It's a baby compared to the Mustang

The next one for the Mustang is likely going to be a centrifugal supercharged EFI 482-505 depending where I decide to go. The problem is, like the turck, it runs too well for me to take it apart! LOL

I hope things are going well! I was wondering if you or anyone in your circle has a Roush one-piece rear main seal for an FE on the shelf?

I know Roush had these for a time but I can no longer find anyone who has one in stock.

Any info you can lend would be great. Thanks
 

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are going well! I was wondering if you or anyone in your circle has a Roush one-piece rear main seal for an FE on the shelf?

I know Roush had these for a time but I can no longer
Sorry no idea, they never took off in the FE world, and typically, the 2 piece works great, you just have to know how to load the side seals properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks, We ended up re-machining the oil seal groove after the line hone. It proved to be quite out of round.

This engine is starting to go together this week and Dynoing on the 17th. Looking forward to the results.

I appreciate all your feedback
 
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