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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello!
looking for some help..aren’t we all.. with confirmation/identify what the motor is. Any and all help is appreciated. I just got my hands on a 71 Mach 1. I know the motor is swapped based on door vin and motor code. Heads first, the code is DOOE-R so I believe CJ heads right? Next is the block, I haven’t gotten to the vin code on the back but on the bottom is DIVE-6015-AA so CJ code right? I pulled the oil pan and have 2 main bolts I believe Still a possibility of a CJ? The main confusion I have is I think it has thick mains stepping down to thin towards the outer side. Does anyone know what thickness to measure for? The thick side and to the step down thin side?
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you! What about adding bolts to make it 4 bolt for more power? Is this not possible because of the step down mains?
 

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Thank you! What about adding bolts to make it 4 bolt for more power? Is this not possible because of the step down mains?
That's a Chevy problem with their small useless main caps. Fords don't have that problem. I thought the samething 30 years ago when I was building a 460 for Bracket Racing. Talked to one of the best racing Machinists in San Diego. He showed me the different between Brand X and Ford caps. He said "unless you're Daytona this weekend or a blower, you just don't need them. Use ARP main studs or bolts and you'll be just fine. Also have it align honed and make sure they do a good balance job. Reved mine to 6700 rpms all the time.
Or there is a guy in Aurora, Co. that has about 6, 4 bolt 429SCJ blocks for sell. Looked at them, good stuff.
What are your plans here?
 

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The D1VE block is not capable of having the four bolt "factory" caps added to it. You would have to have a DOVE-A block to do that. NO reason at all to do that as a 2 bolt block will easily handle a 700hp 545 ci stroker. Many have done it on the 460 ford engine forum.
Randy
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks everyone!
The main plan is a friendly competition between friends haha. So if need be down the road work my way from bottom to top. Not trying to get 1000hp or anything just trying to not be the slowest in the group with a budget of a family man. I’m just planning and making a list of things to do that will give me my best bang for the buck.
 

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385 series blocks are much tougher then most people think. You are always seeing 4 bolt kits for Brand X because they are weak in the bottom end. To really see how weak, just look back at the Grand National (NASCRAD) before the rule change to small blocks. If you didn't ran a Ford/Mercury or Mopar, don't show up at the big tracks. That was when factory stuff was all there was. Chevy, only time you seen them was out in the parking lots. Even the 4 bolt Chevy stuff couldn't hack it.
For my usage, ARP studs on the mains, rod bolts and ARP head bolts or studs, depending. Use a good damper and flywheel/flexplate and have them all balanced together. If you use Ford rods (CJ or Truck) have them cracked for cracks. Especially around the rod bolt area. Align hone the mains and bore/hone, then do a mock up and have the blocked decked to the clearance you want. .010"-.030". Good oilpan and pump with baffles and you won't have any problems.
Remember, upstairs is where the HP/TQ is, downstairs is what keeps it all together. Don't just throw parts at it and except it to make lots of HP. Even milder combos can make serious HP/TQ.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I’m also in norther Colorado so I might swing by them SCJs. Are they a shop? If so I might use them for some work.
 
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