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Discussion Starter #1
The combo is 4.25 4340 stroke,6.25 H beams,mahle pistons, ported pro comp 210 flowing 274cfm,vick jr,800cfm holley E85, compression is at 11.7/1 probably going with solid roller set up will drive 2hrs in it every week. Oh ya a t-5 and 3.73 truetrack. A local racer is building this for me and will tune it
 

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Have you bought any of these parts yet?....Is this a stock block?.Too much stroke for a stock block IMO and not enough top end flow to support it..
A t-5 behind a 437?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Too much stroke is what I thought when I herd of this combo for stock block but why??? Rod ratio?? (1.47) same as chevy454 pistons too small with too much side load? Exact same size as a 355 chevy claimer piston that will live at 8k. T-5 tires should breake loose first and you see many of them live behind big hp engines
 

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a 355 chebby claimer engine only needs to stay together long enough to win a race. the 454 chebby has a better ring package spread. a W and 454 chebby block are miles apart. you will need afr 225 heads at the least. c302b heads would be more like it. if you stomp a 600 hp stroker with 315 tires in the back and all it does is smoke the tires whats the point. a 408 is said to be a real good W stroker. you could put afr 205 heads on it and if built right will make 600hp and be street drivable. if your not gonna drive it on the highway i would go with 4.30 gears , detroit locker , 31 spline axles and wide ratio toploader 4 speed.
 

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Too much stroke is what I thought when I herd of this combo for stock block but why??? Rod ratio?? (1.47) same as chevy454 pistons too small with too much side load? Exact same size as a 355 chevy claimer piston that will live at 8k. T-5 tires should breake loose first and you see many of them live behind big hp engines
Taking this stroke over 6500rpm's in a stock block will certainly lead to main cap walk. That is the most common reason that Ford builders limit their stock block builds to a 4.0 or 4.1 stroke max.

With an aftermarket block such as a Dart, I'd say go with it.

Track use with a drag tire (especially if speed shifting), a factory T5 will be toast in short order.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
This is a street motor so it shouldn't need to spin past that most cam selection pulls are 2k-6200 so that should be ok. He said that a main girdle increases cap walk do you agree with that. T5 will have street tires and probable lots of them. What is your cam suggestion solid or hydro both roller of course. Any dyno results guesses
 

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Is there a reason why you want the 4.25 crank?...The 4 inch drops right in with a very minimum of fuss and lots of clearance to the camshaft..
 

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The main girdle has little to nothing to do with preventing cap walk. It might help "save" your rotating parts when the block goes. If it isn't installed properly, it will create issues.

As far as a cam, with a 6200RPM limit I would consider using a hydraulic roller for less maintenance. Modern designed hydraulics are pretty decent.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It is not the stroke I wanted I was planning on a 408w but this combo was very very cheap and I thought if I don't like it after a summer it will be sold . Just looking for some awesome rolling burn outs. Torque is king on the streets I here and this should have it.
 

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It is not the stroke I wanted I was planning on a 408w but this combo was very very cheap and I thought if I don't like it after a summer it will be sold . Just looking for some awesome rolling burn outs. Torque is king on the streets I here and this should have it.
i can melt the rear tires of a 65 mustang with mildly built 351w. i know , i'v done it. its all in how you work the car with your feet. when i got my dl back in 1973 thats the first thing i learned to do in my fisrt car which was a 66 mustang with a 289 2v and 3 speed. i melted the right rear off a 78 datsun 510 station wagon i had and all the smoke caused someone to call the fire dept. i heard the sirens while i was working the brake and gas and barely made it down the street b 4 the tire came apart. i didnt get caught ! so you want the engine cause its cheep ! nothing thats worth anything is cheap ! as for selling it if you dont like it ? all you may have is a bunch of chunks to sell the scrap iron guy ! my 392w would be more then you could handle. a good 408 will make more power then my 392w. why not just build a 408 and be done ? yeah i know you want to do rolling burnouts. a 514 would do an exelent job !
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ya I got will full reckless in a 4 banger s-10. And the builder of this motor is in mid 50's and has worked as a mechanic and is a legend at the drag strip. His coworker has been trying to blow a 347 with a blower after years of abuse he finally burnt some pistons (hyper). He has 10yr old motors w 4.17 stroke cast still around after 300 nos shot.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I have never had a solid roller cam b-4 besides adj valves what other things come with solid rollers any noise. Benefits I was looking for where faster revs and some performance advantages.
 

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I have never had a solid roller cam b-4 besides adj valves what other things come with solid rollers any noise. Benefits I was looking for where faster revs and some performance advantages.
for street a hyd roller is the way to go. i know roadrace guys turning 7500 rpm with hyd rollers.
 

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Was that at the wheels? That poor thing is breathing through a straw with those heads. Should find and easy 75+hp there with a proper upgrade.

Everything else is there to support it, assuming that the motor is not trying to exhaust out a straw too.
 

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This thread is the equivalent of beating your head against a wall.Don't feed the bear.Let it die.My buddy can put a hundred dollar bill on the........................
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I will get all cam specs soon. Its a solid roller but I think too small at 800 rpm no lope sounded stock. Hooker super comp headers for dyno. 850 holley on E85
 
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