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hey guys, i want to swap out my C4 for a 4speed toploader. i already have the tranny, shifter and linkage. also have the clutch and pedal assembly. how do i know what clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, and bellhousing i need? i am planning on just taking the car into a local transmission shop to have it done but i want to make sure i have all the correct parts first. thanks for ur help
 

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The clutch, pressure plate, flywheel and bellhousing have to match. You'll also need a manual transmission starter.

There are two different bellhousing sizes. One is 157 tooth, and uses a 10" clutch, and the other is a 164 tooth. These are usually drilled for an 11" clutch. Make sure all of your stuff is either 157 or 164 tooth.

A 164 tooth flywheel will not fit inside a 157 tooth bellhousing. A 157 tooth flywheel will fit in a 164 tooth bellhousing, but the starter won't line up.

Good Luck!
 

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Give or take some components but here is a list of items for the conversion.

-Clutch Pedal

-Clutch Pedal Pad
-Brake Pedal
-Brake Pedal Pad

-Pedal Bushings

-Pedal Hanger (if required)

-Clutch assist spring & bracket

-Rod from pedal to equalizer bar

-Clutch rod boot at firewall

-Clutch equalizer bar (Z bar)

-Frame side Z bar bracket

-Engine side Z bar bracket

-Bracket bushings, C clips and felts

-Rod from Z bar to clutch fork

-Z bar springs

-Bell housing

-Engine block plate

-Pilot bushing

-Resurfaced flywheel

-Rebuilt clutch disc

-Rebuilt pressure plate

-New throw-out bearing

-Clutch fork

-Clutch fork pivot

-Bell housing boot

-Bell housing lower cover (if required)

-4 speed toploader transmission

-4 speed shifter

-Upper shift boot and bezel

-Backup light switch

-Speedometer Cable and Gear

-Transmission Yoke (if necessary)

-Transmission Cross Member (if necessary)

-Transmission Insulator

-Driveshaft (if necessary)

- Shifter hump
 

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Give or take some components but here is a list of items for the conversion.

-Clutch Pedal

-Clutch Pedal Pad
-Brake Pedal
-Brake Pedal Pad

-Pedal Bushings

-Pedal Hanger (if required)

-Clutch assist spring & bracket

-Rod from pedal to equalizer bar

-Clutch rod boot at firewall

-Clutch equalizer bar (Z bar)

-Frame side Z bar bracket

-Engine side Z bar bracket

-Bracket bushings, C clips and felts

-Rod from Z bar to clutch fork

-Z bar springs

-Bell housing

-Engine block plate

-Pilot bushing

-Resurfaced flywheel

-Rebuilt clutch disc

-Rebuilt pressure plate

-New throw-out bearing

-Clutch fork

-Clutch fork pivot

-Bell housing boot

-Bell housing lower cover (if required)

-4 speed toploader transmission

-4 speed shifter

-Upper shift boot and bezel

-Backup light switch

-Speedometer Cable and Gear

-Transmission Yoke (if necessary)

-Transmission Cross Member (if necessary)

-Transmission Insulator

-Driveshaft (if necessary)

- Shifter hump
And BEER.
 

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Where in CA are you located? Do you have a small block or big block toploader?

This can get kind of complicated because you could also go the clutch cable or hydraulic clutch route. With either of these, you wont have to worry about any of the clutch linkage, which frees up a lot of room for headers.

The clutch and clutch fork depend on what flywheel you are running. The flywheel depends on what bell housing you are running.

With a hydraulic clutch, the bell housing (and everything) doesnt really matter. You can get slave cylinders that either push or pull the clutch. Plus, you can mount it to what ever side of the clutch fork you want (to achieve pushing or pulling the fork). You would need to get a master cylinder, hydraulic line/tubing, fittings, a slave cylinder, and a brakcet to mount the slave cylinder. You can source the parts yourself, or perhaps modify a kit for an early Mustang. This is kind of attractive because it can be modified to fit any engine/trans/flywheel/clutch combo.

The bell housing matters for a clutch cable. The cable pulls the clutch fork toward the engine to operate the clutch. SROD bell housings (found in early 80's mustangs with a "4 speed") will mate up a 6 bolt SBF and a toploader, and have provisions for a clutch cable. This setup would allow you to run a bigger flywheel and clutch than early cars. This setup may not be worth the hassle if you don't have enough room between the top of your clutch pedal and the cowl. The plus side is that most of the parts were used in Fox mustangs, so they are readily available at your local parts store. There are some "specialty" parts needed that are produced by a couple different sources (clutch pedal quadrant, firewall cable stop). I did this conversion on my 68 Ranchero and went with Mustang Steve's items. They were designed for an early mustang, but not much modification was needed to get them to work in the Ranchero. For more info on this conversion, check out http://www.mustangsteve.com/cable.html.

Lastly, if you go with the clutch cable, I have the bell housing you need.
 

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The best way is to get your factory shop manual out (You have one right?) and look at the exploded diagram. Make sure you have EVERY part on there and you're good to go.
 

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For about $250 you can get a mid-80's F-150 bell housing, new hydraulic slave cylinder and master cylinder, and the throw out bearing and fork for the same year bell housing. This will give you a larger diameter bell housing in which you can also use the larger 164 tooth flywheel. Make sure to get the right starter motor for the 164 tooth manual flywheel, and you are all set up. This is assuming a six bolt block, of course. I would opt for the newer style high toque, permanent magnet starter while at it. That is exactly what I am doing with my '64 Fairlane build, which will have a toplaoder 4 speed and 351w stroker motor. I want it strong and I want room for the full-length headers as well.
 

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a tag on question. i'm doing exactly the same swap. 1964 fairlane, 1965 289, w/ hi po manifolds, 6 bolt bellhousing(will take 11" flywheel/clutch), heh-g toploader(with lger tailshaft), the problem i'm having is which z-bar do i need?? will a mustang one work???
 
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