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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When it warms up I'll be fitting this motor/trans into my 61. Anybody seen this? What sump orientation works best? Front, or rear. The car has a 390 with a front sump right now. I'm using Crites Restorations mounts for the motor & trans. Any help would be appreciated. The 390's pan is in contact with the front frame crossmember, and this is a major concern. The previous owner made his own mounts. Thanks!
 

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I have a 460/C6 combo in my '61 Starliner. It was like that when I got it so I haven't really paid any attention to the pan setup. I'll look at it tomorrow and let you know how it's set up.
 

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I am not familiar with the '61's but I hear they are the same from 61-63. If they are the same use a front sump. I am using the Crites mounts in my '63 and the front sump works well. I cut the mounts off the frame and lowered them as far as I could to get the engine under the hood with out a scoop. Even after doing that I had to use the RPM manifold to make it happen. Another thing you should think about is using the short C6 output shaft and tail housing. Are you rebuilding the 429? If you are, you can easily bump it up to a 460.

I am sure if you are able to talk to the guys at Crites your questions about the pan can be answered.
 

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When it warms up I'll be fitting this motor/trans into my 61. Anybody seen this? What sump orientation works best? Front, or rear.
You won't be able to use a rear-sump pan (by that I assume you mean some kind of double-sump pan, since the Ford oil pump is in the front sump and the only way to eliminate it entirely would be to use an external dry-sump pump), even if it cleared the crossmember it won't clear the steering linkage. I think most folks use a stock-shaped 429/460 front-sump pan.

I wanted the engine to sit somewhat lower and closer to level (2pc driveshaft and MN12 IRS, I'm not worried about driveline angle issues) than was possible with a stock-shaped 429 pan over the '64 crossmember, so this is what came out of it:

Bathe the pan in two gallons of white vinegar for a day to get most of Canton's yellow zinc plating off, find a flat scrap of 1/2in steel plate and drill it, bolt the pan to it, cut a U-shaped section out of the rear of the pan, cut a new back wall for the sump, bend the remaining 'tongue' down a bit to meet it and have the local TIG artist put them together:



Bolt it up to the engine to ensure clearance to the Canton scraper, etc. then cut some more 18ga to fill the rest, and back to the TIG guy:



Clean off really, really well and off to the San Jose Techshop for the 5-foot powdercoat oven:



I bought a set of Crites mounts years ago, took a look and sent 'em back, hopefully they've changed their design since the late '90s. At the time the mount isolator had a bolt going all the way through it, for all practical intents and purposes it would act like a solid mount (or work loose due to insulator flex...)

I'm in the process of fabricating my own mount pylons for the crossmember, to use later through-bolt type mounts (and offset the engine 5/8in to the right for steering-box clearance) but that's been on hold for the past month or so while I do some woodworking and shop rearrangement. First round came out a little too tall, I want the engine 1/2in lower and 1/2in further rearward, so I need to do some trimming. At this point ground clearance to the pan is the limiting factor, and I'll have to dimple the tunnel a little for clearance to the 4R70W.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks Guys! That's a bitchin' looking pan JEM. I think it's sorta the route I'll take. I will have to see if the hood will close and if so I won't need to modify it. Vinegar strips dichromate, who'd a thunk it! When you got those motor mounts from Crites did you get the frame plates that came with them? They put the mounts at an angle to make use of that insulator. I had a set of similar mounts for another 429 project back in the 80's and they never caused me any problems.
 
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