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Discussion Starter #1
Howdy all. I did a TKO600 swap on my '62 Galaxie last summer. I've pulled everything apart this weekend to get ready to replace the tired 390 with a pretty warmed over 428. Since getting everything together last summer I put about 1500 or so miles on everything. The trans is absolutely awesome and the work was definitely worth it. The clutch feels great, that diaphram pressure plate is smooth as silk, everything worked out really well and I'm very happy with everything. The clutch is an organic unit with matching diaphram pressure plate and throwout all from McCleod.

I've got some questions on what I'm finding with the clutch upon pulling the engine and trans out this weekend. Perhaps some of you manual trans guru's can enlighten me.

First, the flywheel I've got is an OEM Ford FE steel unit that was resurfaced and rebalanced prior to installing the new clutch. I'm finding 3-4 scratches like a record in the face of the flywheel in the contact area of the clutch fiber surface. They are barely deep enough to catch a fingernail on. Looking at the clutch disc, I cannot see anything that looks like it was dragging like a bad rivet that was causing the issue. I'm wondering if this could just have been a few piece of debris possibly getting caught up in the rivet holes that caused this? Should I be concerned? The flywheel will be resurfaced again and balance checked prior to installing the new 428.

Next issue is that I'm seeing 2-3 rivets at the center of the clutch disc closest to the splined portion that have horizontal cracks in them (parallel to the crank). Is this an issue?

Lastly, the throwout bearing is absolutely PUKING all over the inside of the bellhousing. There is a ring of grease on the inside of the bellhousing at least a 1/4" thick in the path of where the throwout was riding. I recall lubing up the throwout prior to installing it, but I didn't lube it until grease appeared. Should I have not greased it prior to installing? What is the proper way to lube a throwout bearing? Possible this unit is defective if it's throwing the grease out so bad?

Thanks all, appreciate the help.
 

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It isn't my car, but I can tell you he used a factory pedal and mechanical linkage.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yeap, factory setup. Works really good actually. I almost have no use for the assist spring under the dash.
 

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i think some debri or metal shaving got in there ,possibly when you first
put together your set up....

also i belive you need a externally balanced flywheel for the 428....
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok, debris it may be. I'll be getting it resurfaced again anyway, so I'll just have to keep an eye on it.

What about the throwout? Is it normal to have the inside of the bellhousing caked in grease?

My 428 isn't externally balanced, so that wont be needed.
 

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Ok, debris it may be. I'll be getting it resurfaced again anyway, so I'll just have to keep an eye on it.

What about the throwout? Is it normal to have the inside of the bellhousing caked in grease?

My 428 isn't externally balanced, so that wont be needed.
i tought the 410 & 428 needed harmonic dampner & flywheel ext balance
verus 332-390 neutral balance...

far as throwout you expect some but not caked with grease unless you excessevly greased it...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Typically all 410/428 motors are externally balanced. Mine is internally balanced so I can re-use my 390 parts I bought new when I did the trans swap.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Anyone know where i can find a setup? Can it be out of a mustang or another 60s car? Thanks
No, it can't be out of a Mustang. For a '62 like mine if you want to go the mechanical linkage route, you'll need the zbar, pedal assembly, fork pushrod, engine side zbar mount and frame size zbar mount from a '60-'62 V8 manual shift car. The zbars between the yblock and FE cars is the same, but the mounts obviously are not. Crites does make a nice mount set for FE's that I am using and they work well. You could also make your own of any of these parts. I'm very happy with mine and am glad I did it this way with the bulk of the parts being oem items.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
And to clarify, yes, you can use other parts, but you'll likely have to modify them. Depends on your threshold of comfort and willingness to custom build stuff to make it work. I wanted to try the oem mechanical linkage first and it turned out great on the first try. The only real changes I made were to weld the pedal shaft that both the clutch and brake ride on, and is pressed onto the clutch pedal. The press fit was sloppy and gave a crappy feel when engaging the clutch. Welded up it has a much more positive feel. The next item I need to address is why I keep snapping the plastic insulator that goes between the clutch pedal and the heavy assist spring. I've broken two and may just put a roller bearing in it's place to deal with that.

Domino has also done some trick things with his clutch setup, it would be worth going back to look at his threads. I also have photos of mine in the TKO swap thread of mine from last year.
 

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Dano, found your thread. You did a real nice job of making that fit!

I have a 64, i would hate to cut the floor at all.

I wish i could see what all the clutch parts look like. Im going to have to look around at swap meets and such. Where did you find yours?

So what bell and input works?

If i couldnt find a source for a clutch pedal setup, i was looking into an aftermarket setup from Wilwood.
 

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Dano, found your thread. You did a real nice job of making that fit!

I have a 64, i would hate to cut the floor at all.

I wish i could see what all the clutch parts look like. Im going to have to look around at swap meets and such. Where did you find yours?

So what bell and input works?

If i couldnt find a source for a clutch pedal setup, i was looking into an aftermarket setup from Wilwood.
you could check out this thread to....

http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/transmission-articles/481776-hydraulic-clutch-classic-ford-3.html
 

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Discussion Starter #14
My car is pretty slammed, cutting the floor was the only way to do it right and not have the working angles of the drivetrain all severe. Also, I'm planning to put the car on airbags someday down the road and wanted the flexibility to go further down without needing additional tunnel clearance. Yes, it was a lot of work and took a lot of time to tig it all back in, but the results are great. If your car is closer to stock ride height you may be able to get away with just cutting a single hole for the shifter to come through and then building custom crossmember to work with the trans. Domino did this with his car and it should work nicely.

Parts wise, you can find this stuff on ebay. Or here, the HAMB, maybe a local yard has some old galaxies with them. I'd sell you a spare setup if I had it. Shouldn't be that difficult to find really.

I'm using a TKO600 #5008, short Ford input shaft version. The bellhousing is 6056 from Quicktime which is actually not the bellhousing that is supposed to work with this trans. I tried the 6057 first and it buried the input shaft too far into the crank. Ross at Quicktime was super awesome at exchanging for the other bellhousing and that solved the issue. Wear patterns on the input shaft show it is riding in exactly the correct spot with this bellhousing.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I think the throwout is bad. My buddy looked at it last night and said it looks toast. I can grab the housing that rides on the input shaft and then the collar that contacts the pressure plate. There is pretty severe lateral play perpendicular to the input shaft. I remember adjusting the clutch exactly as Tremec suggested and put in an .080" air gap between the clutch disc and flywheel. Does anyone have a way to check that the throwout isn't spinning when the clutch is all the way out? Not sure I can see the throwout or not through the clutch fork hole.
 

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My car is pretty slammed, cutting the floor was the only way to do it right and not have the working angles of the drivetrain all severe. Also, I'm planning to put the car on airbags someday down the road and wanted the flexibility to go further down without needing additional tunnel clearance. Yes, it was a lot of work and took a lot of time to tig it all back in, but the results are great. If your car is closer to stock ride height you may be able to get away with just cutting a single hole for the shifter to come through and then building custom crossmember to work with the trans. Domino did this with his car and it should work nicely.

Parts wise, you can find this stuff on ebay. Or here, the HAMB, maybe a local yard has some old galaxies with them. I'd sell you a spare setup if I had it. Shouldn't be that difficult to find really.

I'm using a TKO600 #5008, short Ford input shaft version. The bellhousing is 6056 from Quicktime which is actually not the bellhousing that is supposed to work with this trans. I tried the 6057 first and it buried the input shaft too far into the crank. Ross at Quicktime was super awesome at exchanging for the other bellhousing and that solved the issue. Wear patterns on the input shaft show it is riding in exactly the correct spot with this bellhousing.
According to the applicationchart, the 6056 looks like the right one.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
According to Ross at Quicktime, they have seen variances with the FE where this application isn't correct (like mine). I'd suggest making a bunch of measurements of the bellhousing face of the block to bottom of the pilot hole and then on the trans from the mounting face to the end of the input shaft and then decide which one is best for you.
 
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