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We have a 390Fe engine that my husband is trying to find out the horse power this car has. Listed is what is in it if someone could help us out here on what the hp would be

390 FE bored .40 over (396ci)
Crank turned 10/10
Clevite TC1713 0.40 pistons @ 10.5:1 compression
Ford Performer RPM aluminum heads
170cc intake ports
72cc combustion chambers
2.090" int/ 1.660" exh vavles
1.25" valve spring, 0.710 max lift (I believe if I read the specs right
Crane cam hyd. roller lifters
Crane cam harden steel push rods
Crane cam 349541
359 dur. 632 lift 2,800-6,400 rpm
Hooker Competition cermaic headers 62054HKR
Edl. performer 390 intake
Edl. 1" aluminum spacer
Holley 4150, 750 cfm, double pumper
Ford roller speed double timing chain
350 rear end axle
4 speed top loader manual transmission

Any input on the hp would be greatful, I can get my husband to settle down and not worry if he has ENOUGH hp.

Krista
 

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I think the only way to really find out is on a dyno. ANything else would be a shot in the dark
 

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Under 400 is my guess. The Edelbrock kit with their heads, cam, carb... nets around 410 hp. By their website. I believe that you are close to 400 hp but since it isn't all matched to work together you probably aren't up at the 410 they state their package has. I have a 431 Scat stroker kit with roller cam, lifters, and rockers as well as the Edelbrock heads and Performer RPM heads and the builder states around 475. I ran pretty much what you are running before the motor swap. Only major difference being I had a plain performer cam and I was around 370 hp.

By the way, the stroker kit motor and C-6 with a 2200 stall makes the car faster now without nitrous than it was with a 100 hp shot of the giggle gas. I felt it wasn't fast enough before and now I am happy. If he wants more, add the Edelbrock 100hp shot of nitrous. Cheap hp!
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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: gbeeler on 10/26/06 10:27pm ]</font>
 

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I say 371.4 HP @ crank And that´s it.

Why? Becuase your setup almost completely matches the 390" i built this spring, And it put out 371.4 HP after a day on the dyno stand.
 

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I think you're pushing it a bit far with the .4 Mr. Andersson....
 

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i am confused, what does everyone think is holding this combo back? othen than the intake, this looks like a 420 to 430 hp motor.
i know it was a magazine article so assume conditions are perfect, but carcraft (it was hotrod) built basically the same motor and used the smaller crane roller and made around 450 hp at the crank. (using a different intake)

a stroker is great for moving the power down in the rpm range but i dont see how adding 40 cubic inches is the differnce between 370 hp and 475 hp.

if you think it only makes 370 hp what would it take to get it to 410 to 415 hp

is this build up total BS?
http://www.hotrod.com/webonly_january/


<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: brotherdave on 11/2/06 10:57pm ]</font>

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: brotherdave on 11/3/06 9:38am ]</font>
 

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well that intake is definetly gonna hold that motor back some, should be running that performer RPM on there. that plain ol performer is just a aluminum version of a stock intake. some porting and the largest valves you can get away with will aslo help. the 40 extra cubes can make a big diff, bigger cylinder bores mean more air gets in and fills the chamber, also keeps the valves from being too close to the cylinder walls which helps to unshroud the valves and live up to their full potential. there is such a thing as having too big a valves or heads that out perform your short block and will actually hurt performance
 

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Horsepower...on a dyno, is just a number. Sure, it's a good number to compare when siting around with your bud's draining a cold one. But in the end it still just a number.

Every dyno has its factor of error - then add in weather, who the operator is and how good you tune the engine; its very easy to miss 30 - 40 or more horsepower. Thats one of the reasons people put engines on dynos, so thaty can tune the engine to get the best horsepower - for that day, those conditions. After that; once its off the dyno - you are back to real world conditions.

That being said...I always deduct a "fudge factor" to compensate for what an engine is making when in "daily driver" tune and tuned by the owner.

Your (group estimated?) numbers, in the 350 - 400 range, are not as bad as you seem to think. More guys have been rudely awaken when their car is put on the Lie Detector...another common name for a chassis dyno!

Since you quoted Hot Rod magazine, take a browse through some of the back issues. They have had a running series of articles where they go to car shows and have guys put their cars on the chassis dyno. Before they make a run, they ask the guy to 'guesstimate' his horsepower, sometimes they ask the crowd to offer a guess too!

Most of the time the owners claim (or guess - whatever you want to call it) is off, way off! Parts don't make the horsepower - its the right parts, tuned and tweaked to suit the engine and what it is being used for that make the numbers.

Like the old time racers used to say "We race cars, not dynos" - take it to the track and get some time slips. If thats not in the cards yet, then at least put the car on a chassis dyno and have some reason to ask why. Most places its way under a hundred (ususally $50 - $75) for 2-3 pulls on the chassis dyno. At this point, all you are dealing with is best guesses.

Ps: Jus' so's ya know...There is NEVER e'nuff horsepower!!! It's only what you can afford or what you will settle for, at the moment. Most of the guy's I hang around with are one good spank'in on the track from a tear-down and rebuild.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Beoweolf on 11/3/06 8:17pm ]</font>
 

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Some have said that the Hot Rod mag engine did not make the 450 hp but around 400 corrected. Many disagree with the build with the cam specs and valve train. Another push for aftermarket parts from one manufacture, not what would make more HP. As far as your engine goes should make around that figure or a little more. higher compression, with a cam and induction to match would see the most increase but your moving your power band rpm to a different level. JMO
 
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