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Speaking of headers,has anybody found a set that are actually direct fit on the fe in these cars. I would love to put a set on my 390 without having to modify them.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Would an Autolite 4100 4 barrel just swap in place of the 2 barrel, with the steel lines and everything?

Gave it a full ignition tuneup. I really wonder when this was last done, the plug wires looked really old, no markings on them.


 

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Block Hugger Headers, Item # 302594900585, eBay site,... I have a set on my '63 Galaxie 500 XL, 390, 4 speed, 3 deuce carbs.
They Fit excellent AND cleared the clutch mechanisms. Also had to trim the back upper A frame support a little bit. but put them in on drivers side without moving anything, Pass side had to lift engine about 2". Stainless is also available, Nice Thick flanges, NO LEAKS, had Muffler shop build the rest of the exhaust. would I use them again,....youbetcha!
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I looks like a fun project!🙂
I like the build as you drive cars, reminds me of how I put cars together in the 70s. Good times.
Yeah, me too. My last project was a $700 volvo 240 turbo. I blew up and rebuilt the motor in a month last year. Big fat turbo, suspension stuff, etc. Got hit head on by a Camry last month which is why I bought this. My other 240s motor blew up (VW diesel) awhile ago so the turbo's motor will go in it once I buy it back. For now I just have this Ford and an Elantra rental.

Anyway, I figured out why it wasn't holding gears long enough. I wasn't flooring it hard enough to engage the kickdown. Much faster now.

I can't get the smokers windows to close fully and they make a really annoying whistling at speed.
 

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To get the vent window to close get a Dennis Carpenter Galaxie catalog. There is a how to do it for fixing them that I wrote for the Ford Galaxie Club of America magazine way back when.
 

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Great project. Your diversified, that's for sure!

Your fuel sending unit is probably not grounded. Here is a thread on how to troubleshoot and repair.

My '63.5 was missing the "I" I bought a complete set, used off e-bay. I still have the rest of the letters and would happily send you the "L" . Send me an e-mail and $10 via paypal to [email protected]
 

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Discussion Starter #35 (Edited)


This is probably the least rusty car I've ever owned. I feel pretty confident I can weld it up myself and POR15 the rest of it or something.

I've put about a thousand miles on it with no issue. For the time being it is my daily, I'm hoping to get my Volvo its new motor before the snow comes.
 

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Ha in my world I don’t even call that rust. If you can’t crawl out of the car through the floor you paid too much. Ha ha ha. Looks like a fun project . Have a good time makin her what you want.
 

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Discussion Starter #37 (Edited)
Both rear bolts on the front seat snapped and welding a nut failed. What size drill/tap/bolt should I use?

I just did some quick n dirty patches. My first time doing rust repair, not counting the time I simply threw sheet metal over the gaping holes in my first car's floor. I'm gonna add another coat of POR15 and seam seal it all up before I throw down sound deadening and the new carpet I got. I can finally install the gas pedal I found in the glovebox.





Also found a big mouse nest under the rear seat. Nasty.

This thing rusted out from the inside. Someone left it outside for a long time (Evidenced by the ruined seat fabric/carpet and the dashboard being lumpier than my face) and it leaks water somewhere on the drivers side.
 

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Discussion Starter #39






Here's what I got done in December. Still gotta fix the rust in the trunk and install new door seals. I replaced the bulbs in the dash but the speedo bulbs keep falling out for some reason.. They seem to click into place just fine but after a couple days I won't be able to see how fast I'm going at night until I pop em back in. Also, seat reupholstery, needs to be done but I'm wondering how much that'd cost.. Sitting on an old tablecloth that I suspect the previous owner stole from their grandma isn't very pleasant.

 

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so - the floor rusted out because there was a LOT of water sitting in it, you can see the 'tide mark' on the carpet going up the side of the driveshaft hump. Most likely it was sitting in there because the cowl has rusted out (just had mine repaired, and it's a fugly job - windscreen out, heater out, wipers out etc) and that's why it's rusted.

A previous owner had slopped body-filler up on the underside of the cowl behind the speedo to try to halt the leaks, and that sort-of worked but it's not a good fix - it depends on how much effort you want to go to and how 'right' you want it afterwards.

But - with that nice repair and lovely carpet, I would be lying on my back and having a look at what's gone wrong in the past so that it doesn't happen again.
 
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