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Discussion Starter #41
so - the floor rusted out because there was a LOT of water sitting in it, you can see the 'tide mark' on the carpet going up the side of the driveshaft hump. Most likely it was sitting in there because the cowl has rusted out (just had mine repaired, and it's a fugly job - windscreen out, heater out, wipers out etc) and that's why it's rusted.

A previous owner had slopped body-filler up on the underside of the cowl behind the speedo to try to halt the leaks, and that sort-of worked but it's not a good fix - it depends on how much effort you want to go to and how 'right' you want it afterwards.

But - with that nice repair and lovely carpet, I would be lying on my back and having a look at what's gone wrong in the past so that it doesn't happen again.
The driver's door is still leaking water onto my new carpet, really gotta get around to doing the seals. As far as I can tell that's the only leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #43 (Edited)
I've been trying to fix the fuel gauge. It moves up to E with ignition and months ago I saw it go up to about halfway and then back to E while driving. I'm thinking it's gotta be the sending unit itself. Definitely not the ground, maybe a problem in the signal wire? I really gotta replace this fuel hose too.



Also I gave it a Walmart style seat reupholstery.





 

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Discussion Starter #44


Shocks and leaf bushings done. Gotta replace that fuel hose, do the filter while I'm at it, then replace the rear brake hose. Then I'll get to work on the front end.

Wanted to get one of the drums off to inspect brakes but they won't budge.. I've never touched a drum brake before and I'm a little scared. All my other cars had/have 4 wheel disks.
 

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They can stick sometimes. Get a big three jaw puller. They probably have a whole set of different sizes cheap at Harbor Freight. Make sure the speed nuts between the wheel and drum are removed (probably long gone), then tighten it up somewhat, and use a large hammer around the drum. It will eventually pop loose with a bang. Use common sense on how much to tighten and how hard to hit it. Too much torque and you'll actually see the drum bending. Once it breaks loose, you might need to adjust the shoes in some to get the drum off.



You really need a shop manual for this or at least the picture showing the (correct) placement of the components. The two sides are mirror images. Make sure to get the deluxe/full hardware kit which includes the shoe pins and springs, the big springs, etc. The four brake shoes are different - 2 with bigger pads, 2 with smaller. Big on back (rear of car). Make sure the adjuster star wheel threads are clean and turn easily. It's a good idea to replace all the brake fluid from time to time of course, and also (at least) all the flexible hoses. They can deform on the inside, holding pressure on the wheel cylinders to a degree. Like a check valve.



Pat
 

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on the rear drums, spray penetrant oil all around the hub. whack the snot out of it between the wheel studs. it'll pop right off unless the brakes need to be backed off.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Okay, I really just want to check condition of the shoes and stuff. I sprayed penetrating oil before putting the wheels back on so it should be easier next time I take a whack at it.. I definitely need to replace at least the rear brake hose. It's not dry rotted or anything, but there seems to be a chunk kinda missing.. Like something chewed on it.

The brakes work just fine (As fine as it'll get with 4 wheel drums) but I'm concerned about safety, especially after seeing that rear hose. A little while after I got the car a deer walked in front of me at night and I achieved full lockup from 30-40 to a stop. Slid straight and true. Dumbass deer just kept on strolling across the road.

Oh, that reminds me, I can't get the master cylinder cap off either. I'd like to buy a new one before I try taking it off again cause I think I might have to break it.
 

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I got a rear brake hose on ebay there is a guy who makes them new, pretty cheap, too.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
So for the first time in 3,000 miles something broke. Generator isn't up to snuff. Battery voltage with car running is just a hair higher than with it off. Like 12.7v vs 12.6. Drops to about 12.6 with headlights on.

Voltage regulator, maybe? I checked charging voltage after I got the car last October and it was just fine.

 

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brushes. had this happen to my vert which uses the larger brushes, but the only thing i could find was a small gen. kept my old gen(paid the core charge) and when i got home bought a set of brushes for it for $6
 

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Discussion Starter #54
I let all the little bits soak in evaporust, painted the body, threw in new brushes, cleaned everything, etc, etc. Now it looks pretty but doesn't work a whole lot better.. I didn't do the polarizing thing, but if I'm correct that would just make the difference between working and not working at all, not low output. Also, kinda weird, the voltage goes up slightly with the headlights on. Doesn't move at all with revving.



 

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I could be wrong but it seems to be working as it should be. 13 volts with a fully charged battery, engine running and no load on the alternator. Turn headlights on (load added) and the volts go up.
 

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Discussion Starter #56 (Edited)
Spent a long time getting my valve covers pretty and making sure they wouldn't leak anymore. Then I stood back, admired my work, and realized I put them on the wrong sides. Oh well.







Also the gas gauge started working on its own, so that's nice.

 

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Discussion Starter #57

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I like the existing wheels, stock wheels look a little lack-lustre for me - or perhaps chrome smoothies?

Valve covers look really nice - and with respect to reversing them when you installed them: if you don't have to do something twice, you probably haven't realised what you got wrong yet ;D

Try cleaning the headlining, but if you cannot get the result you want, then remove the screw-on trim, mask up the lining and paint it with some white vinyl paint.
 
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