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Discussion Starter #61
New tires and a new problem, kinda. At higher RPM the generator light starts glowing and it gets bright right before the shift point. Belt tension is good. I guess I have a shift light now.



 

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New tires and a new problem, kinda. At higher RPM the generator light starts glowing and it gets bright right before the shift point. Belt tension is good. I guess I have a shift light now.
It's not unheard of for the generator light to illuminate if a faulty regulator is allowing too MUCH current.
 
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Discussion Starter #63
L is installed.



I was poking around under the car and found a rust hole.




I had the car in the air because I was attempting to replace the front shocks. The nuts are rusted on, just spinning the shaft and there doesn't seem to be enough room to get a spinny implement of destruction in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #65
I finally got around to doing the front shocks. They were pretty wasted. The passenger shock had no oil left and the drivers side shock dumped all its oil onto the driveway when it fell.. Haven't really done anything else to the car besides drive it.






So there's a few things I wanna fix. First is the heat soak/vapor lock problem. If the cars been parked for 5-60 minutes or so I have to floor it, crank for 5+ seconds, and feather the gas to get it going. I'm curious as to whether this is a result of running ethanol gas or if there's something not right with the carb. I'd run a tank of ethanol free but I can't find any, other than the $10/gal Sunoco stuff. Also the rear main is leaking. I don't feel like pulling the trans on this thing, but if I do I'd be very tempted to replace it, either with a stick or at least something that has an overdrive gear.
 

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Pick up a holley heat insulator gasket, Edelbrock makes them also i believe. It goes between the carb and spacer and is a fiber like stuff about 1/4" thick. Or you can get a plastic/phenolic carb spacer. If you have the stokc 4100 carb and you get the plastic spacer you will have to shave off the front top edge some as the back 2 screws on the underside of the carb where the accelerator pump is will hang up on the edge and you'll have a huge vacuum leak. Those two work pretty good, either or both. I don't have the 4100 on mine anymore but when it was I adjusted the rear float down some because the gas will perk up in front and run to the rear along channels on the side and then overflow that end of the carb. I actually think the plastic spacer was better than the stock one which i by passed the water hose and cut the hose pipe piece off. Mine would sit for 10 mins or so and i'd have to hold it to the floor to start it cause it was flooded. If it sat only 5 mins it would start right up. Pain in the rear when you live in a hot desert! Now i'm in WA and it doesn't usually get that hot here but does occasionally.

I wish my car had overdrive, would be great when i'm off on road trips!
 

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Following this thread....
I have a 2dr Box Top. Last one on the line according to vin
 

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Discussion Starter #68
I've done some pretty minor stuff to it like a new sending unit (float failed on the original) and a new rear brake hose. Front hoses are still good. I have been tinkering with the carb, adjusted the accelerator linkage and stuff. Still has a bit of a hesitation if I get on the skinny pedal too quickly when it's cold, but when warmed up it runs like a top.




Also I took it to a little autocross circuit. Wheeling this thing around a little track was a ton of fun and I was pretty impressed with how well it can take a beating. I got it to hang sideways a few times but the steering made it really tricky to control where it was gonna go once the back was loose. I had to hit the brakes to unload the rear while whipping the wheel to one side then back to the other as fast as I could manage to make it really kick out. I went out for around 5 minutes at a time since that's about how long it took for the brakes to fade away. I'm fine with keeping the drums but I do need to get a dual master and maybe some more modern shoes.




Currently working on fixing the gearbox for the passenger vent window. Back cover fell off and dropped down into the door at some point. I also noticed the water pump has a pretty significant amount of play in it. No weird noises or coolant leak though.
 

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Holley sniper efi. Best money Ive spent on mine. I used cheapo stainless shorty headers from ebay. There are a couple different versions. One style works ok with some slight massaging to clear the steering box... the other style isn't even close.

BC
 

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Discussion Starter #70
I drilled and tapped the little gearbox to bolt the back plate on, works fine and the window closes all the way now.




While I had the door apart I put in a new seal, but it looks like it doesn't seal on this bit of the door.



Same on both sides. You can see the old seal was fine there by the overspray.



Gunky. I'm thinking of pulling the motor just to reseal it.
 
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