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Discussion Starter · #102 ·
So I set the timing again, this time with the vac advance disconnected (duh) and now it runs quite a bit better. Still hesitates when I hit the gas, but it's a lot closer to where it should be. Also threw in a straight through Vibrant "muffler" which really helped to tone it down and get rid of the drone.

It still has a pretty bad smoking problem however. On cold start it puffs a fat cloud of smoke which goes away quickly, and while driving I'll see smoke in the rearview under high vacuum conditions, like coasting in low or after going full throttle. I'm feeling like it's an intake gasket but it could be valve seals. I've consumed about half a quart already, without any leaks. I checked the plugs and none of them really stood out to me.

 

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Discussion Starter · #103 ·
Before Christmas we had a warm week so I got a little more work done on the car. The cold start smoking was at its worst if I fired it up the day after it last ran, so I did just that and shut it off before it stopped burning oil, then checked the plugs. About half were oily, a couple on each side. I pulled the intake and realized that I might've forgotten to push the valve seals back down after the spring swap.. I'm using the regular old Rolo umbrella seals from the Felpro kit, maybe they just don't work so good with the high volume oil pump and higher lift cam? I resealed the intake and pushed the seals back down, haven't driven the car yet so we'll see. I took the opportunity to eyeball a few of the lifters. The explodey one had some light vertical scoring on its sides, which was concerning, but the bottom seemed to match the other ones I looked at.




I also 3d printed a new carb spacer out of ABS, the plastic one I got from Summit worked fine but the bores were oversized and the PCV port was undersized. I was told the ABS should hold up fine to gasoline and heat. I also converted to auto choke. The $11 choke cable was a royal pain to adjust finely or even to just open the choke, a few times I got out of the car and popped the hood to open it all the way. I don't know why the cable was so stiff, seemed to move freely when not connected, but whatever.




The bores don't line up exactly perfect, but not bad for something I modeled off a dirty finger rubbing with a ruler.

Then I threw in a SLC free wideband, just sticky taped to the dash. 100 bucks with Bosch sensor, some assembly required. I stole the sensor wiring from my old AEM wideband gauge, so wiring it up wasn't too much work. I adjusted the idle to .90-92 lambda (about mid-13s AFR), will be interesting to see what it does going down the road. Kinda annoying that it reads lambda only since my brain works in AFR. Hard to complain for the price though.




I also started playing with the idea of a one way breather, manifold vacuum within the crankcase would probably have some benefits. Idea stolen from this post. I've found the stock PCV will draw about half an inch of mercury at idle on the crankcase.



Now just waiting for the salt to disappear. I still wanna make a post covering how I "rebuilt" the motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #104 ·
Took it out for a rip, some things to figure out..

-Idles pretty terrible most of the time in gear. Doesn't stall at least.
-Does not cold start, seems like it wants all the choke I can twist into the housing when cold, but then it wants it about in the middle as it's coming up to temp after a few minutes.
-Cruise lambda is perfect, right about 1.0
-WOT lambda is all over the place. Lowest I saw was about .95 and highest was 1.35. Not good. I wonder if the air cleaner is still screwing things up.
-Very sluggish if I slowly add throttle. Goes lean. It's fine if I hit the gas quickly.
-Still burning a little oil, but nothing like it was doing last year.
 

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For the idle, check for vacuum leaks including the brake booster and trans. modulator if automatic. Then adjust the mixture screws with a tach and vacuum gauge once warmed up and the timing is where you plan to keep it. Cold start: Ideally, the choke plate should be fully closed when cranking but should open about 1/4" as soon as the engine starts, then slowly open more and more from there as it warms up. I'm not sure Holley carbs have the choke pull off, though, so you might just have to adjust the thermostat as you've been doing. I have a manual choke on my tri-power setup so I've forgotten some details on the automatic operation. For the sluggish part throttle, make sure the accelerator pump is adjusted properly. With the engine off, verify that ANY throttle movement immediately results in gas coming out the nozzles. There should be no free play. There is a spec. for I believe .015" clearance between the diaphragm lever and the screw but this is when both are held fully open (WOT). Other than that, no slop.

Pat
 

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Discussion Starter · #107 ·
Fixed the cold idle by adjusting the choke pull off. Two pumps and it fires off and idles.

I've set the accelerator pump a few times now and tried moving the screw to the other position on the throttle. It's better, but still far from snappy.

Fixed the oil burning. It was leaking onto the exhaust.

Still need to address the high throttle fueling and its got at least a couple header leaks. Guess I should've followed the instructions where it said not to use gaskets. If I roll into the gas it starts leaning out where it should be getting richer. I took the air cleaner off and it ran the same, so I don't think that's an issue anymore.

Wheel Tire Car Plant Dog
 

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Discussion Starter · #109 ·

It started squeaking intermittently about half a mile from home and quickly got worse. It's loudest under the car, seems kinda bell housing-y? The flex plate to TC and bell housing bolts are all tight, I dunno how to check the flex plate crank bolts short of pulling the engine or trans. I don't see any movement between the back of the crank and the flex plate, wiggling the engine back and forth. I don't feel anything rough when I bar it over at the crank bolt. Hmph.
 

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To my ear that is a bad noise, as in, not good things happening there....

Pull the belts and run it for a short while to see if noise goes away.

Noises can "travel" and are not always coming from where you think...
 

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Discussion Starter · #111 · (Edited)
To my ear that is a bad noise, as in, not good things happening there....

Pull the belts and run it for a short while to see if noise goes away.

Noises can "travel" and are not always coming from where you think...
Yeah- maybe the bell housing is just kinda.. acting like a bell. I pulled the drivers valve cover since I could feel the knocking more on that side of the engine, couldn't find anything wrong there. I ran it like that and all the pushrods were turning. It's not the starter either.

I suppose I'll dump the oil filter and pan for gold, pull the trans if I don't find any.

EDIT: Dumped out the filter and there was a lil bit of glitter and some small bits in the bottom. Seems to be pretty much the same as when I dumped the filter on the first oil change last year. Certainly not the debris I would expect from a noise like that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #112 ·
So just pouring the oil out of the filter doesn't show the glitter hiding inside, apparently.



I suck at engines. Or maybe it was the 6000+ rpm shifting. Either way, I only got about 400 miles out of it. Never ran low on oil and it still had at least enough pressure to keep the light off.

What now? I don't feel like doing the whole shebang all over again. I also certainly don't feel like dropping several thousand plus on a crate motor. Nor do I feel like selling the car. Maybe I'll just let it sit on jackstands for 30 years.
 
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