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Discussion Starter #1
Plans are to put a 514 with A429 heads and a C4 in the Fairlane.


Any body know were one is in decent condition (no broken windshield for sure) and priced in the 500-1500 range?


Or a decent 64 2dr or 4dr parts car cheap? Must have good floor pans. I have a rust bucket already.


I'll consider a 63 parts car if the floor pans will work in a 64.
 

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I replaced the front floor pans on my 64 with pieces of an 80s Ford truck tailgate and you can barely tell (same ribbed pattern) Got the beat t/gate from the wreckers for free!
 

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Also I got a mint front and back windshield for a 64 post for sale, anybody want them?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I found a 64 4dr for parts the other day. cost me 250, has a perfect windshield in it along with decent floor pans.

Starting installing the crites shock tower kits today.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well, let me see, a couple of my knuckles are missing skin this morning and a few fingers and a place on my arm has burns. lol. but nothing missing yet.

Got the front end ripped out and the basic cuts made. Doing final grinding for passenger side. If the rain holds off the next few days, might be ready to weld it up this coming weekend else will be after the weekend of Apr 6th. Heading to Ohio for the Mid Ohio Ford club swap meet.

TomP, did you use Crite's kit? The big plates that recover the opening, did you roll the excess around the shock towers?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I finally got the shock tower kit installation finished last night along with the driver side fender apron for the air intake duct.

The headers are back from Jet-Hot. The ceramic coating looks almost like chrome.


Going to start removing the battery side fender apron from my parts car this weekend and some of the floor pans. Once I get the car mounted on the rotisserie I built, I can then work on the floor pans and scraping all the seam sealer and undercoating off.

I found a set of shortened Moiser 31 spine axles and retainers on eBay the other night for $125 to go in my 9" housing.


While in Columbus for the swap meet, picked up the fiberglass from Crites and 8pt roll bar from Jegs.

And my co-workers wonder why I am so tired at work after the weekend or the next day.
 

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There is a very nice straight solid '64 Fairlane I pass every time I drive to/from central Texas that sits on the main road and has been there for years. The next time I go there (probably in June), I'll try to get a price or phone number. It sits next to a house. There are always nice old Fords along that 600 mile route that make me want to stop but I rarely do except for a few times(beautiful white '64 Galaxie wagon 390 with nice interior and the '64 Ranchero with 4sp and 260? along with a couple others but that Fairlane has been there a while.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Sure wish I could find a passenger side front frame rail (from the control arms forward) that is in good shape.....seems like these go south on most all of the fairlanes.
 

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Ya my front right frame was toast.... must have been from the battery acid. I just cut out the three-layered steel and welded in a patch, a little work but it looks fine.

Speaking of front frame, what is your guy’s opinion in regards to the strut rod suspension? How fast (MPH) do you think a person could go with that system without having problems? Will it start to float or wander at high speeds?



Any input?


 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well, my thoughts are they must be fairly decent since most of your Mustang II and Pinto front end kits use strut rods of some type. My old Tbird had the Mustang II front end and we ran 125's on an 1/8 with no problems.

Know anyone that needs a few front end parts? Such as new Idler arm kit for 64 and 65 or new outer tie rod ends for 62-65. Both are listed as manual steering.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Just Strokin on 4/14/02 10:00pm ]</font>
 

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I may be intresed in the idler kit.

Does anybody know if the manual idler is different from the power steering idler? I used the power steering idler with my manual steering drag link. IT seems ok, but Ive never drove the car?

any input??
 

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Discussion Starter #13
From all I can tell, the frame end of the idler arm changed on manual steering cars around 3-2-64. And that date isn't exact even though all the books show that date. My Rust bucket was made on 3-24-64 and has the earlier idler bracket (reason for selling the kit). The idler frame bracket bushing on the earlier cars has a large outside diameter. My 64 parts car made a couple weeks later has the smaller inside diamter idler bracket and a good bushing, so I am going to use it.

This one is listed as 64-65 manual steering. From what I can tell the frame support bushing is different on manual steering cars after 3-2-64. But the power steering cars used the same idler arm as the earlier than 3-2-64 manual steering cars even after the manual steering cars changed their support bracket. The Rust bucket has a C2OZ number on the bracket and the parts car has a C4OZ number on that bracket.

If it will fit your car, I'll take what I paid for it on eBay. $85 plus shipping. It is brand new, all parts made by TRW.

Hope all that made sense.


<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Just Strokin on 4/15/02 8:46pm ]</font>
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Got the old Rust Bucket up on the rostisserie I build....ready to start installing some floor pans. Maybe 6 months from now, it will be close to having the engine installed. LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Got the floor pans all replaced and the old car is bare bones now. Time to work underneath and clean and paint un there so I can start putting it back together before long.

The old rotisserie I made works pretty good. Got it where it will swing vertical so I can work under it without having to be on my back. I'll try to update the pics before long.

Also found some Econoline seats to put in the Rust Bucket once I get them recovered (another 300.00 needed here also).

After spending 1500.00 just yesterday on things such as rubber floor cover, windlace, chrome parts, headliner, etc, I need to find another 300.00 for paint so I can start the re-assembly.

I am considering the thought of making me some door panels. And maybe later getting the correct ones. Has anyone ever tried to use say masonite cut in the shape of the door panel and then covered it with the velour type headliner material?
 

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Ya I made my own or should I say apple autoglass made them,just a piece of board with thin layer of foam and the cover, I think they look great
 

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I made my own door panels. Most uph shops will sell you some door panel board that isn't supposed to absorb moisture. I also bought some nice, stretchable vinyl and installed it on the board with 3M uph adhesive. They look great for $40 door panels.
If you didn't see my post before, there's a guy in Byron, GA that has a rust-free 64 2Dr HT for $2500-it's super straight. He also has (2) 64 parts cars. The number is (47
956-2478. I have also spotted (3) 63 2DR HT, but I haven't inquired yet.
I used the Crite's shock tower kit, but I didn't cut the edges of the flat plate. It works fine, but it would have looked better with the excess metal cut off.
On the stock strut-rod suspension: I have occasionally driven mine at 100mph on curvy back-roads with no problem.
Tip on front tires: with my 351C and stock springs, 225/70r14 will scrub in hard cornering.
Tip on Crite's rr leaf springs: they are 64 parts, and are supposedly the same for 65. They bottom out pretty easily with four people in the car. Plan on using stiff shocks.
I'm thinking about installing a mild 460 in my '65. Does anyone know of any headers besides Crite's? 2" primary is way bigger than what I need. I wonder how it would run with manifolds. What are the chances that the 8" rear will hold up?
Lastly, does anyone know of a source for a 65 rear bumper and '65 steering center link? Autokrafters doesn't carry them.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I rolled the edges of the big flat shock tower plates around the edge of the shock tower to get them out of the way and in my dumb mind, to add some more support to the shock towers.

That helps a lot knowing that upholstery shops have the backing for door panels. I was contemplating masonite and how to seal it and then to get glue to stick to it. I am considering the velour covering for them.

JC Whitney has a listing for 2-3" more lift on their rear leaf springs. I am considering these along with using 6 cylinder coils in the front. Plans at this time are to run some kind of skinny tire up front with wider tires in the back.

From what I understand from Crites, they haven't found any stock manifolds that will fit the engine bay of these cars, even with their kit installed. I take it they are talking about the driver's side and the steering box. I don't think 2" would be too big with a motor like the 429/460 or larger. Too bad there is not room for 2.25" headers.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
brianfulwood

My parts car may have a good drag link on it. It was suppose to have been installed just a few years back.....or so the guy said.....i can still see a parts tag on it thru the grease. It is for the manual steer cars made after 3-2-64.

Also have two new Moog outer tie rod ends if you know anyone that needs a pair for manual steer.
 
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