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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 4dr 1964 ford galaxie 500 that I would like to make stronger or should I say faster. I am not a collector so I dont want to spend a lot of money. It has the 289 with the C4 trans and I have to say I've never owned an engine so weak, it has virtually no power for that big car.

Can someone offer advise on what engines I can swap that will fit in my car with little to no modifiying, also, transmissions that might make a difference.
 

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dont think you have a c4-- more likely the trans is a fx--alum bell iron body alum tailshafthouseing

also -do a little reading in the archives here -- lots of answers for ya

tto answer your question-
any engine- 351 roller-352-390-427-428-429-460

how much time you got and how much money you want to spend ????
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeh, you may be right but I was told that it was C4 trans. This is my first Galaxie and I beleive I got a great deal on it. Now, all I need is some power to push it. I have a fair amount of time to dedicate to restoring it but there is no specific budget. I dont want to enter any car shows, I just want a nice strong good looking car to drive about town.
 

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its a 4door -- not a race car-
its a car made for hauling the family around -- its made for crusing and enjoying the ride--

first you need to find out what trans you have -- --64 did not have a c4---
 

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i have the same car - 64, but its the 2dr hardtop XL version. . . . . .

I have thought about this on a daily basis for the last 4 years hahahah.. . . . . . . . maybe a 302 Roller engine with a C4 tranny.

Im not sure if the tranny will bolt up though. Im sure someone will chime in on this matter

L
 

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cause their yugly.
cept when you dateing -then that big back seat--er--well-ah--never mind
 

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Likely the easiest swap would be a later 302 roller motor as it will bolt up to the 289 mounts. This could wind up being a costly exchange however as you really need to keep the computer if you use the EFI and a AODE. Also the reverse direction water pump and serpentine belt will have to be dealt with.

A 460 if you could find one without EFI and with the transmission attached might be the least expensive option? Would require some fab work it get it to fit but parts for them are generally not as expensive as an FE would be?

Scott...
 

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I ran through this exact same thing last year. The 289 was my first engine under 351 cubes. After adding all the torque building pieces I could when I rebuilt the engine (.040 overbore, 268H cam, low rise 4V intake, small tube headers, electronic ignition, etc.) it was still terribly weak for a Galaxie. On the dyno my horsepower had jumped from 190 to about 250 but the torque barley rose at all. The deal is, a 289's very short stroke peaks out around 310 ft-lbs. Which can launch an early Mustang okay, but just won't hardly budge a 4,000 pound Galaxie. Not even with a 3.50 rear gear (I've swapped and tried). 302's don't really add enough stroke to make an effective improvement in torque so I won't discuss them.

Horsepower is far less important in big cars than torque, especially for street driving. To move decently, a Galaxie needs at least 350 ft-lbs of torque at a minimum. By decently, I mean you don't have the urge to get out and help push when leaving a stop sign.

First off, your tranny will have to go away with the engine since 1964 289's were the five bolt pattern. If gas mileage is part of the equation, a 351 Windsor is the way to go. It will accept a six bolt C4, FMX, AOD, or small bell C6 and bolt right into your existing engine mounts. (Rear tranny mounts depend on the tranny). 351W's are also a decent platform to make extra power and have huge main journals that can handle nearly anything. They don't add much weight and use the same radiator too. I dropped the 351W from my wrecked 1969 Montego and a small C6 into my 64 Galaxie on a weekend, piece of cake. It was a vast improvement. Not a racer, but no longer anemic. It actually gets better gas mileage than the 289 because it's not working as hard and has better vacuum.

If you want brute power and lots of potential for even more, a 390 is the next easiest and cheapest swap. I say this because 390's are plentiful and an option in 1964 so off the self mounts etc. are available. This bigger engine will require a different radiator, stiffer springs, some reworking on the front of the exhaust (to meet manifolds), a set of 390 (FE) mounting brackets from a boneyard, and a few other odds and ends. But if you've got the extra time and money to spend, that 390 is good for at least 400 ft-lbs of torque. Slightly tweaked, around 430 ft-lbs. That won't beat a 7 Litre but it will put you into your seat back.

Still you could go with a 351C, 400, 429 or 460. These newer designs do have their advantages and can make more power but since they were not an option in 1964, custom brackets, exhaust, and other pieces will have to be fabricated or bought which can add considerable time and cost.

Sorry, I rambled so long but hopefully my recent experience can benefit you.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well appreciate all the info and comments from all of you on this matter especially that 2 cents from "Tex". So now I will get cracking on shopping around for a decent 390 or 351 eng.

So is anyone interested in purchasing a 289 with trans, if so, I am in Indianapolis,IN

Also, if I am looking at the trans what do I need to pay attention to in order to determine what kind of trans it is?

my cars 001.jpg
 

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I am in the same position with a 64 XL 500 Convertible. One week I am building a small block 427 stroker, this week is a 557 BBF stroker they both cost the same to build. It seems these days the 351w stroker are a popular combination especially with a number of different cylinder head options.
 

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Pan shapes are the easiest way to ID transmissions. I've included a link that should help.
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Transmission_Identification

Most FMX/MX/Cruise-o-matics have aluminum bell and tail housings with an iron main case in the middle. They debuted in the 50's. These work okay. Use one if you have to, but they are not the toughest thing going. Earlier models lack the ability to shift manually.

C4's came out in 1964 (thus the name). They were designed for small blocks and can be rebuilt quite stout, but still a bit undermatched for a Galaxie with decent torque. To my knowledge, all aluminum and with removable bellhousings. All 64's and early 65's are 5-bolt pattern as are the corresponding 289's. Late 65's and up use the familiar 6-bolt pattern.

C6's came out in 1966 (again thus the name). The were designed for big blocks in big cars and light trucks. In stock form they are tough. Properly built, the engine will blowup before they do. The bellhousing is cast with the main case in aluminum. There are three patterns: round FE (352, 390, 428),
squared big block (400, 429, 460), and the small block 6-bolt (late 289, 302, 351W, 351C).

Later C4's and FMX's, and all C6's are "Select-a-Shift". That is 1= 1st lock, 2= 2nd lock, and D= 1 2 3 fully automatic.

AOD are Automatic OverDrive and came out in 1980 I believe. They are a four speed, with 4th being the overdrive. They use a special locking torque converter. They are most commonly found behind small blocks of the early 80's to early 90's. Units later than that need a computer to run. These are great for gas mileage but will shred if abused.

For my money, I prefer C6's, usually backed with a 2.75 or 3.00 rear gear for mileage. Just my experience.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I've ran across a few 351s and 390s so you were definetly right about them being fairly easy to find. Now, I need to know what is a fair deal on a 30-40 year old block?

a few offers were for "tore down engines", "bare blocks", "rebuilt engines" "intakes and manifolds alone"... if an engine block, or other metal parts, has been setting for a while doesnt it accumulate some rust within the walls? should I focus only on fully assembled engines?

talk to me people... your thoughts please....
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I am in the same position with a 64 XL 500 Convertible. One week I am building a small block 427 stroker, this week is a 557 BBF stroker they both cost the same to build. It seems these days the 351w stroker are a popular combination especially with a number of different cylinder head options.

Molinr- well if I do decide to build a 351 it will be my first build from the ground up, or should I say block out...
 

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I'm west of Indy, and if you do swap out the motor, I may be interested in some parts from the motor. Do you run a 2 barrel carb by chance? I need a 2bbl air cleaner. Also the balancer if in decent shape.

heck, maybe the whole motor, who knows...
 

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I have a 4dr 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 that I would like to make stronger or should I say faster. I am not a collector so I don't want to spend a lot of money. It has the 289 with the C4 trans and I have to say I've never owned an engine so weak, it has virtually no power for that big car.

Can someone offer advise on what engines I can swap that will fit in my car with little to no modifying, also, transmissions that might make a difference.
Hey Mr. M,
In browsing your thread, I came upon the picture of your 1964 Ford Galaxie 500, and it is Chantilly Beige! I happen to own one (Ms. American 3.14159) that looks identical, except for the whitewall tires and chrome hubcaps.

For JPGs of Ms. American click here:

1964 FORD GALAXIE 500 PI

Anyway, it's nice to see an almost identical "more-door" as our illustrious "Fe And Going Broke" (Gary) has dubbed them. Will watch your progress.

Hope you are doing well.

JC
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Pan shapes are the easiest way to ID transmissions. I've included a link that should help.
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Transmission_Identification

Most FMX/MX/Cruise-o-matics have aluminum bell and tail housings with an iron main case in the middle. They debuted in the 50's. These work okay. Use one if you have to, but they are not the toughest thing going. Earlier models lack the ability to shift manually.

C4's came out in 1964 (thus the name). They were designed for small blocks and can be rebuilt quite stout, but still a bit undermatched for a Galaxie with decent torque. To my knowledge, all aluminum and with removable bellhousings. All 64's and early 65's are 5-bolt pattern as are the corresponding 289's. Late 65's and up use the familiar 6-bolt pattern.

C6's came out in 1966 (again thus the name). The were designed for big blocks in big cars and light trucks. In stock form they are tough. Properly built, the engine will blowup before they do. The bellhousing is cast with the main case in aluminum. There are three patterns: round FE (352, 390, 428),
squared big block (400, 429, 460), and the small block 6-bolt (late 289, 302, 351W, 351C).

Later C4's and FMX's, and all C6's are "Select-a-Shift". That is 1= 1st lock, 2= 2nd lock, and D= 1 2 3 fully automatic.

AOD are Automatic OverDrive and came out in 1980 I believe. They are a four speed, with 4th being the overdrive. They use a special locking torque converter. They are most commonly found behind small blocks of the early 80's to early 90's. Units later than that need a computer to run. These are great for gas mileage but will shred if abused.

For my money, I prefer C6's, usually backed with a 2.75 or 3.00 rear gear for mileage. Just my experience.
Thanks TEX...
So I should look for a 390 with a C6..? I have seen some affordable items so far so it looks like I'll be rebuilding my first engine. I just had a few questions about shopping for the right engine and the best deal... also, do I need to change the rear end too?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Hey Mr. M,
In browsing your thread, I came upon the picture of your 1964 Ford Galaxie 500, and it is Chantilly Beige! I happen to own one (Ms. American 3.14159) that looks identical, except for the whitewall tires and chrome hubcaps.

For JPGs of Ms. American click here:

1964 FORD GALAXIE 500 PI

Anyway, it's nice to see an almost identical "more-door" as our illustrious "Fe And Going Broke" (Gary) has dubbed them. Will watch your progress.

Hope you are doing well.

JC

I followed the link to see your car. It does look similar to mine. The color on mine is actually a silver base with a lime pearl overlay. I had it painted as soon as I bought it,l not realizing the lack of power... I will definetly keep you posted on the progress and if you ever decide to get rid of that trim (chrome) or know of anyone who has the same, please contact me first.
 
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