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Discussion Starter #21
It looks to me that there is rust on the bottom of the tube, I find it odd that it would crack in a strait line like that. You should try to pull it back together as it has spread apart.
I think I would do it with the motor removed.
It *looks* like I can raise the engine up off the motor mounts, and then jack under the crossmember and get it back in line. But, as they say, all battle plans are moot once the first shot is fired...
 

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After looking at the latest picture, from here it appears if you look at it as a puzzle you can see where the puzzle "pieces" fit together. That would indicate a split or crack. As to why it cracked so straight I'd guess, and it's just a guess, that has to do with the properties of the metal and/or how fast it was stressed to the point of failure. I'm not a metallurgist just a guess on my part.
Maybe check and see what's up with your motor mounts perhaps they aren't correct for the application? I'm not familiar with the front end on your year car but I know there is no way my 500hp 521 is going to cause that kind of damage.
Just some ideas until someone with more knowledge on the subject matter comes along.
 

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Is the cross member only cut on one side or both? I would guess at one point the previous owner may have wanted to pull the oil pan with out pulling the engine...if its only one one side maybe he decided against after he got started.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Thanks all!

I am looking at lifting the car in a way to relieve the stress off the front, see if it tries to realign itself, get it in a position that the ends come together, do a weld repair on it, sleeve it, and keep an eye on it. This car gets only driven maybe a couple hundred miles a year, but I would prefer not to have a catastrophic failure on one of those miles.
 

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If you don't get that back together to the factory width, you are bound to find future problems down the road with your steering/front suspension. I've never seen a crack that clean before. Especially on a piece of frame that was built pretty tough in the first place.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
If you don't get that back together to the factory width, you are bound to find future problems down the road with your steering/front suspension. I've never seen a crack that clean before. Especially on a piece of frame that was built pretty tough in the first place.

It turns out that appears to be factory... as in, the cross member is made in three pieces, then machine welded and sanded smooth. There is the evidence on the opposite side. I took it to a shop, and they put it on a lift, raised the center of the crossmember, and it eased almost together, about 1/16" equal gap all the way around. Using pretty good heat, the welder started tacking it together, going all the way around. That drew the sides very close together, and he ran a triple bead around the whole thing. getting good penetration.

From the looks of it, the original machine weld just didn't have good penetration.

Warranty?
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Thanks all, for your advice. I saw it cracked there, and had a bit of a pucker moment. I didn't drive the car except to the shop, but after the repair, it took away that wallowing feel that the car had, that I had just put to bad shocks, weak springs and sway bar.
 
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