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1965 Galaxie 500 XL Convertible
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Discussion Starter #1
I am currently rebuilding a cruise o matic FX small case out of a 65’ galaxie xl with the 352. First time doing a rebuild of a tranny
I have a couple questions regarding the rebuild kit(s).
I used the TransGo 106006B master rebuild kit with steels included. My question is:
There are some dished steels in the kit, and from what I can tell when I tore apart my tranny, there were no dished steels. Which drum should they be in? I also had 2 extra steels left over and (1) clutch disc. I measured the clutch/steel “packs” that I removed from each drum and tried to match their thickness with the new sets. They are pretty close, about .020” on one and .010” on the other. Any advice??

Second question: Has anyone used the SK3-VL shift kit from TransGo for this tranny? There is a screw in “nozzle” for one of the servos that replaces the spring and plunger. Directions say to screw into place where the plunger was, however, there are no threads. Nozzle isn’t self tapping so I’m not sure if you just ram it in there and twist and let the threads cut the aluminum??
Also the directions were unclear on which side it was screwed into?

Any advice or insight would be awesome!!
 

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1963 Ford Galaxie 500
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Yikes, I am pretty handy, but transmissions scare the **** out of me. I am interested to see what you think when it is all said and done.
 

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dont know about the screw in nozzle, but the steels are actually springs. they are what compresses the plates together
i think they are called belle ville springs
 

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1965 Galaxie 500 XL Convertible
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Discussion Starter #4
Yikes, I am pretty handy, but transmissions scare the **** out of me. I am interested to see what you think when it is all said and done.
yeah it’s definitely not in my typical wheelhouse. I’m a fairly mechanical minded individual and those transmissions are a bit out there. It’s the little tricks of the trade with those things sometimes. If it wasn’t for the cost, that sucker would have been sitting on another persons bench.
 

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1965 Galaxie 500 XL Convertible
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Discussion Starter #5
dont know about the screw in nozzle, but the steels are actually springs. they are what compresses the plates together
i think they are called belle ville springs
That is along the lines of what I was thinking, I made sure they were all facing the same way also for that reason. Just worried I am missing something.
 

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Mstngmatt,

I just finished a rebuild of a large case COM (‘64 Lincoln). Literally just a few days ago. There are a lot of similarities. I did a bunch of research before I did mine. I will look through the info I gathered and see if I can find anything to help.

I do remember one source of info mentioned that the dished steels are preferred but hard to get. So you are a step ahead there. I can’t remember if that source mentioned which drum.

I was a bit scared when I first opened this trans up. I have never torn one down before. After going through it all it really isn’t that bad. You just have to take it slow and think about how things should be. That said, I haven’t driven mine yet so you might want to take my advice with a grain of salt!

I can’t help on the shift kit. No experience there. Just make sure the parts you have are actually for a COM. I found several items listed as ‘64 Lincoln parts that were for C6 instead of the correct COM.

- John
 

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The dished steel plates belong in the high clutch drum, also called the direct drum in Ford speak.
It's the drum the front band rides on.

The dish on the plates should all face the same way. Up or down doesn't matter. I like to put the dish up.
They are not the same thing as the belleville spring that is used to return the piston in the forward clutch drum.

The dished steel plates should have 2 teeth "missing" 180 degrees apart.
That is to identify them as dished, rather than flat, like the steel plates in the forward drum.

Some aftermarket dished steels don't have the "missing" teeth.

Be sure you are duplicating the original clutch pack stack up in each drum.
Extras left over don't matter, as long as you have proper clutch pack clearance,
and the same number of clutches go back in as what came out.
Clutch pack clearance should be in any good repair manual.
If you don't have a manual, the rule of thumb is .010" per friction clutch.
So a clutch drum that has 4 friction clutch plates (not counting the steel plates) should have a minimum of .040" clearance.
Max approx .060"

EDIT: Front Forward clutch pack can be a little tight. .025" is ok

Not sure what to say about the Trans-Go SK3-VL kit.
Been a long time since I installed one of those.
Which servo is the "nozzle" for?
Can you post pics? and maybe a pic of the instructions too.

Also I have a request, if your trans is a console floor shift,
could you please post pics of the shift lever that is on the side of the trans.
I have a spare lever that I am trying to determine if it fits a floor shift FX trans.
Thanks!
 

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Here's pics of the floor and the column shifters. The one still on the tranny is pretty easy to see it's column shift with the lever down. The other is floor shift. I used the lever off my medium case cruise on the small case i have in the car now. The one on tranny is the medium cruiseo before I swapped.

I have to hand it to you gurus rebuilding transmissions. I had a hard time with just the power valve for the steering and how it went together! After checking around i found someone that had good reviews and could rebuild my small case but it cost me 1200 and that was 10 yrs ago. It was worth it!! I didn't have much luck with used transmissions and this was my 4th or 5th. Knock on wood it keeps going!
 

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Here's pics of the floor and the column shifters. The one still on the tranny is pretty easy to see it's column shift with the lever down. The other is floor shift. I used the lever off my medium case cruise on the small case i have in the car now. The one on tranny is the medium cruiseo before I swapped.

I have to hand it to you gurus rebuilding transmissions. I had a hard time with just the power valve for the steering and how it went together! After checking around i found someone that had good reviews and could rebuild my small case but it cost me 1200 and that was 10 yrs ago. It was worth it!! I didn't have much luck with used transmissions and this was my 4th or 5th. Knock on wood it keeps going!
Thanks ShotRod.

Sorry to say those pics don't help much.
The linkages changed quite a bit from 64 to 65 along with the newer design frame and... well...
basically the complete re-design of the Galaxie.

Remember, the Galaxie was "All New" for 65. :)

I really need pics of the 65 cast iron trans floor shift lever.
The 64 is significantly different.

Ya, if you find an old tranny guy that can fix/repair/rebuild your old cast iron Ford tranny he's worth every penny.

Most of todays "modern" Tranny shops with young rebuilders have no idea about these things.

It's not difficult or Rocket Science but these old trannys need extra care.
There are some tricky spots when it comes to assembly.
 

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The dished steel plates belong in the high clutch drum, also called the direct drum in Ford speak.
It's the drum the front band rides on.
galaxiex, are you sure it’s the front band? I thought the direct drum is the one the REAR band rides on? I am far, far from an expert. Just double checking.

- John
 

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galaxiex, are you sure it’s the front band? I thought the direct drum is the one the REAR band rides on? I am far, far from an expert. Just double checking.

- John
Yes, the front band rides on the direct drum. (3rd gear and reverse), also called the “High/Reverse drum.
The rear band rides on the planetary drum.
Rear band is used in manual low and reverse.
Front band is 2nd gear.
The drum at the front with the shaft sticking out the front is the Forward drum.

45 years experience here with transmissions. :)
 

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Wouldn't '65 still be the same as the column shift trans pic isn't a '64 trans as it's had the modern shift pattern unlike the '64 but also that is column shifter. Definitely the kick down rod if i remember right was a bit different and hollow where earlier were a solid rod. The concept would still be the same as far as on the trans itself. I don't know a thing about the 66 and up with the C6 trans other than the bellhousing is part of the transmission.

I'm sure someone here has a pic though. Then i also can see the difference.



Thanks ShotRod.

Sorry to say those pics don't help much.
The linkages changed quite a bit from 64 to 65 along with the newer design frame and... well...
basically the complete re-design of the Galaxie.

Remember, the Galaxie was "All New" for 65. :)

I really need pics of the 65 cast iron trans floor shift lever.
The 64 is significantly different.

Ya, if you find an old tranny guy that can fix/repair/rebuild your old cast iron Ford tranny he's worth every penny.

Most of todays "modern" Tranny shops with young rebuilders have no idea about these things.

It's not difficult or Rocket Science but these old trannys need extra care.
There are some tricky spots when it comes to assembly.
 

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45 years experience here with transmissions. :)
Thanks galaxiex. Must have been late night brain fade here. Somehow I confused rear clutch and rear band. I should have just checked my pics and I would have seen you were right on.

Thanks for setting me straight.

- John
 

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Thanks galaxiex. Must have been late night brain fade here. Somehow I confused rear clutch and rear band. I should have just checked my pics and I would have seen you were right on.

Thanks for setting me straight.

- John
No problem, transmission terminology can get confusing. Especially when different manufacturers call the same thing by different names.
 

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1965 Galaxie 500 XL Convertible
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Discussion Starter #17
The dished steel plates belong in the high clutch drum, also called the direct drum in Ford speak.
It's the drum the front band rides on.

The dish on the plates should all face the same way. Up or down doesn't matter. I like to put the dish up.
They are not the same thing as the belleville spring that is used to return the piston in the forward clutch drum.

The dished steel plates should have 2 teeth "missing" 180 degrees apart.
That is to identify them as dished, rather than flat, like the steel plates in the forward drum.

Some aftermarket dished steels don't have the "missing" teeth.

Be sure you are duplicating the original clutch pack stack up in each drum.
Extras left over don't matter, as long as you have proper clutch pack clearance,
and the same number of clutches go back in as what came out.
Clutch pack clearance should be in any good repair manual.
If you don't have a manual, the rule of thumb is .010" per friction clutch.
So a clutch drum that has 4 friction clutch plates (not counting the steel plates) should have a minimum of .040" clearance.
Max approx .060"

EDIT: Front Forward clutch pack can be a little tight. .025" is ok

Not sure what to say about the Trans-Go SK3-VL kit.
Been a long time since I installed one of those.
Which servo is the "nozzle" for?
Can you post pics? and maybe a pic of the instructions too.

Also I have a request, if your trans is a console floor shift,
could you please post pics of the shift lever that is on the side of the trans.
I have a spare lever that I am trying to determine if it fits a floor shift FX trans.
Thanks!
Thank you for the great info, I am pretty mechanical but this stuff is a little foreign to me.
here is a couple pictures of my linkage, which is in fact console floor shift.
165339

case casting #
0B362C5B-498E-492C-8915-D1EFB56C14B9.jpeg

linkage
I have a couple more pictures facing the rear and front of the case and also the inside if you need that also.

I went back through both drums and the rebuild kit didn’t come with different thickness clutches. So on the “direct” drum with the dished steels I had to add an extra steel and clutch to get the thickness of the “pack” correct. I tried my best with the tools I have (digital calipers and some steel picks with machined thickness’) to measure the clearance and it looks like it is around the .050” range which seems reasonable.

I will have to draw up some pictures for the rear servo “nozzle” situation. I am hesitant to take it apart again as I don’t have a spring press and that sucker is “fun” to take out without one.
Thanks again for all the help so far!
 

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Mstngmatt, I'd like to see more pictures if you wouldn't mine. I have the same transmission with the casting number of C5AP-7006-A like yours in my'67. I'm trying to convert from column to console shifter and trying to find the correct transmission lever.

Thanks, Dave
 

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Mstngmatt thanks so much for the pics.

Your direct clutch pack at .050" is just fine, and having an extra steel and friction plate in there is a bonus.

Edit: I said in my earlier post that "the same number of clutches go back in as what came out."
But if the new frictions and/or steels are thinner and you can get more in, that is great!

No worries about the rear servo pics, if you have it already installed per the instructions it will be fine.
Trans-Go makes a good product.

If not too much trouble could you possibly give us a measurement of the center to center distance of the shift lever pivot to the center of the hole where the shift rod attaches?
Doesn't have to be super precise.
I'm guessing it will be about 2 1/4" give or take.

Thanks!
 

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1965 Galaxie 500 XL Convertible
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Discussion Starter #20
Mstngmatt, I'd like to see more pictures if you wouldn't mine. I have the same transmission with the casting number of C5AP-7006-A like yours in my'67. I'm trying to convert from column to console shifter and trying to find the correct transmission lever.

Thanks, Dave
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