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  • .05 to .066 inches is the clearance reverse high clutch and .028 to .05 inches on forward clutch if you're still curious. If it's off you can get different sized snap rings to adjust the clearance. I'd be careful with any kind of mods in a trans kit, I've seen them burn clutch disks faster than they should for a smoother shift but we're talking 2 years of daily driving for it to fail. Pressure plates face up on the bottom with a plate on top of it then a disk.
 

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Mstngmatt, thanks for all of the pictures. Very clear and precise. Hopefully with those pics we'll get this sorted out.
 

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1965 Galaxie 500 XL Convertible
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Discussion Starter #24
Hey all, update on the rebuild!

Everything is back together in the tranny and bolted up to the car. Just finished filling it up with tranny fluid and took it for a test ride to shake it out.

Car moves in forward and reverse. Yay big win for me.

On the test drive, however, the tranny won’t shift out of first in Green Dot and won’t shift into 3rd in Small Dot. I can shift it from Green Dot to Little Dot to get it to go from 1st to 2nd but no 3rd.

Car had the same problem before rebuild so I’m not sure what I am missing.

Any advice? Band adjustment? Valve body issue?

A bit of a bummer, got myself a little too excited when it actually shifted into gear initially after the rebuild. 😐
 

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1965 Galaxie 500 XL Convertible
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Discussion Starter #25
Hey all, update on the rebuild!

Everything is back together in the tranny and bolted up to the car. Just finished filling it up with tranny fluid and took it for a test ride to shake it out.

Car moves in forward and reverse. Yay big win for me.

On the test drive, however, the tranny won’t shift out of first in Green Dot and won’t shift into 3rd in Small Dot. I can shift it from Green Dot to Little Dot to get it to go from 1st to 2nd but no 3rd.

Car had the same problem before rebuild so I’m not sure what I am missing.

Any advice? Band adjustment? Valve body issue?

A bit of a bummer, got myself a little too excited when it actually shifted into gear initially after the rebuild. 😐
A couple photos from the rebuild.

165559


165560


165561


165562


165563
 

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Matt,

I am by no means a transmission expert, but here are some thoughts based on my recent experience with a large case COM:

Did you replace the vacuum modulator during the rebuild? Do you have good vacuum to it?

If the small case has a governor on the output shaft, did you take that apart and clean everything up? Did the moving parts move freely?

Is the kickdown linkage installed properly and adjusted according to the manual?

Check the manual linkage and make sure everything is adjusted correctly.

Readjust the front band to make sure that is good.

I wish I could offer more. If I think of anything I will let you know.

- John
 

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Hey all, update on the rebuild!

Everything is back together in the tranny and bolted up to the car. Just finished filling it up with tranny fluid and took it for a test ride to shake it out.

Car moves in forward and reverse. Yay big win for me.

On the test drive, however, the tranny won’t shift out of first in Green Dot and won’t shift into 3rd in Small Dot. I can shift it from Green Dot to Little Dot to get it to go from 1st to 2nd but no 3rd.

Car had the same problem before rebuild so I’m not sure what I am missing.

Any advice? Band adjustment? Valve body issue?

A bit of a bummer, got myself a little too excited when it actually shifted into gear initially after the rebuild. 😐
Are you 100 % sure the governor is assembled correctly?
That’s where I would look.
 

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1965 Galaxie 500 XL Convertible
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Discussion Starter #28
Are you 100 % sure the governor is assembled correctly?
That’s where I would look.
Thanks for the replies, I've been off fiddling with the car for the past couple days trying to figure it out. To answer your questions galaxiex, no I am not 100% sure as this was my first rebuild, however, I disassembled everything one by one and felt I was meticulous putting things back together properly. I tried to ensure that the governor was also placed on the tailshaft correctly to align the holes also. That's not saying that it couldn't be that, I guess I am just hoping it isn't as I don't want to pull it back out after I just got it back in...

After more fiddling with the vacuum modulator, turning it darn near all the way out, still had a fairly high shift point during the 1-2 shift, somewhere ~25mph which seemed excessive as the 2-3 shift was happening around ~35mph which I felt was ok.

Before I rip my hair out and take the tranny back out to inspect the governor, am I missing anything else? My earlier issue of it not shifting was solved due to a poor linkage set-up on the kickdown that was keeping held open which I believe was not allowing it to shift into a higher gear.

Thanks for all the help so far.
 

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1965 Galaxie 500 XL Convertible
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Discussion Starter #29
Matt,

I am by no means a transmission expert, but here are some thoughts based on my recent experience with a large case COM:

Did you replace the vacuum modulator during the rebuild? Do you have good vacuum to it?

If the small case has a governor on the output shaft, did you take that apart and clean everything up? Did the moving parts move freely?

Is the kickdown linkage installed properly and adjusted according to the manual?

Check the manual linkage and make sure everything is adjusted correctly.

Readjust the front band to make sure that is good.

I wish I could offer more. If I think of anything I will let you know.

- John
Thanks for all the info John, I have implemented some of your advice. I am wondering about the front band though. I could never figure out which band was which, is the front band the one that can be adjusted on the outside of the tranny? I adjusted the other one (from inside the trans. pan) according to what I believe is the standard with .25 inch of clearance. And the other one I adjusted according to some info. I found out there on the web. I believe it was wind it all the way in until you feel some feedback, than back it out something like 4 turns? I don't remember entirely what I did.

Would the front band just have an affect on the 1-2 shift or on the 2-3 shift also? I seems I am having the most trouble with the 1-2 shift being too high mph/rpm.

Thanks!
 

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Automatic shifting is basically a balancing act between the governor and the modulator.
(yes other things are involved too, but this is about the basics)

The governor makes the up-shift.
The modulator delays the up-shift.

The governor makes a pressure that is proportional to road speed.
0 mph = 0 governor pressure.
10 mph = 10 psi gov pressure
30 mph = 30 psi gov pressure
etc... up to a max of approx 50-60 psi.

At 0 mph the shift valves are in the base position, ie; the trans is in 1st gear.
The shift valves are held in the base position by spring at one end of the valve.
Gov pressure is at the end of the shift valve opposite the spring.
As road speed increases, Gov pressure pushes on the shift valves, trying to push them to the up shift position against the spring force.

Modulator pressure (also called TV pressure for Throttle Valve) is also at the spring end of the shift valve.
TV pressure opposes gov pressure at the shift valve.

To summarize:
Gov pressure pushes the shift valve to the up-shift position.
A spring and TV pressure try to push the shift valve to the down shift position.

If it won't up-shift at the correct time... the trans has....

Not enough gov pressure.
Too much TV pressure.

Since most Ford governors are finicky little beasts, that's where I look first for up-shift problems.

Did you remove the actual gov valve assembly from the cast iron counter weight?
Did you make sure the gov valves are free in that little aluminum housing?
If you did take the gov assembly apart, are you absolutely sure you re-assembled it correctly?
It is possible to assemble it with one of the valves in backwards, and if that is the case, it will not work properly.

Also, the wrong modulator, or a modulator pin that is too long will cause late up-shifts.

You absolutely MUST have a blue stripe modulator on any FX, MX or FMX trans.
Any other color is wrong and will not work.

Bands...
The front band is for 2nd gear.
It is the one with the adjustment inside the trans.
The rear band is for reverse and manual low. IE; pull the gear shift down to "1" or "L".
The rear band adjustment is on the outside of the trans.

Band adjustments do not affect at what speed the trans makes an up shift.

Your FX trans should have a small oval cover on the extension housing.
The cover is on the drivers side and held on with 2 flat head screws.
That is an access hole for the governor,
so you can remove the small aluminum governor body without taking the trans apart,
or removing the trans from the car.
You will have to rotate the drive shaft to get the governor to align with the access hole.
 

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... and after all that...

Make sure the kick down linkage is not binding and stuck in the KD position.

In fact, for now just remove/disconnect the kick down linkage to be sure it is not the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Automatic shifting is basically a balancing act between the governor and the modulator.
(yes other things are involved too, but this is about the basics)

The governor makes the up-shift.
The modulator delays the up-shift.

The governor makes a pressure that is proportional to road speed.
0 mph = 0 governor pressure.
10 mph = 10 psi gov pressure
30 mph = 30 psi gov pressure
etc... up to a max of approx 50-60 psi.

At 0 mph the shift valves are in the base position, ie; the trans is in 1st gear.
The shift valves are held in the base position by spring at one end of the valve.
Gov pressure is at the end of the shift valve opposite the spring.
As road speed increases, Gov pressure pushes on the shift valves, trying to push them to the up shift position against the spring force.

Modulator pressure (also called TV pressure for Throttle Valve) is also at the spring end of the shift valve.
TV pressure opposes gov pressure at the shift valve.

To summarize:
Gov pressure pushes the shift valve to the up-shift position.
A spring and TV pressure try to push the shift valve to the down shift position.

If it won't up-shift at the correct time... the trans has....

Not enough gov pressure.
Too much TV pressure.

Since most Ford governors are finicky little beasts, that's where I look first for up-shift problems.

Did you remove the actual gov valve assembly from the cast iron counter weight?
Did you make sure the gov valves are free in that little aluminum housing?
If you did take the gov assembly apart, are you absolutely sure you re-assembled it correctly?
It is possible to assemble it with one of the valves in backwards, and if that is the case, it will not work properly.

Also, the wrong modulator, or a modulator pin that is too long will cause late up-shifts.

You absolutely MUST have a blue stripe modulator on any FX, MX or FMX trans.
Any other color is wrong and will not work.

Bands...
The front band is for 2nd gear.
It is the one with the adjustment inside the trans.
The rear band is for reverse and manual low. IE; pull the gear shift down to "1" or "L".
The rear band adjustment is on the outside of the trans.

Band adjustments do not affect at what speed the trans makes an up shift.

Your FX trans should have a small oval cover on the extension housing.
The cover is on the drivers side and held on with 2 flat head screws.
That is an access hole for the governor,
so you can remove the small aluminum governor body without taking the trans apart,
or removing the trans from the car.
You will have to rotate the drive shaft to get the governor to align with the access hole.

Great info, I am beginning to lament at the fact that it is likely a governor issue.

I bought a new modulator from MACs and it is indeed the Blue Stripe, I used the original modulator pin so I'm not sure why/if that would be an issue.

I did remember also that my extension housing does not have the inspection plate as you are talking about. I thought it was supposed to during the disassembly as the rebuild kit I purchased came with a new gasket for it. However, there is no inspection port.

It seems to mess with the governor, I would need to pull off the extension housing which is a miserable beast to deal with in my mind.

To respond to your other post, I have in fact disconnected the kickdown and have it held in the up position to ensure that it is not being activated.

Thanks again for all the information.
 

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Yes, unfortunately the last couple of years of the FX COM and all 67-up FMX did not have gov inspection covers.
Too bad, it was a nice feature, but Ford probably did away with it to save a few pennies.

Sucks to pull the extension housing in the car, but it still beats pulling the whole trans....
... then again... once you have gone that far it's only a couple/few more bolts to pull the trans....
 
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