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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm in the middle of a Tremec TKX manual conversion for my '65 Galaxie Convertible/FE and I am stuck trying to figure out what to do with the clutch pedal. The kit I bought was misleading and there is no clutch pedal that fits. Can anyone help by sending me pictures from underneath their dash of the brake/clutch pedal configuration for a 65-66 manual Galaxie/full-size?

thanks in advance!
 

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Here is the clutch pedal / linkage assembly diagram from the 1965-72 Ford Master Parts Catalog. If you'll be spending any amount of time working on your `65, I highly recommend buying one. Look for MRE Books or Forel Publishing, they're authorized distributors and have it for around $20.

Nonetheless, take a look at the diagram and tell the group what you need.

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Was your car a manual to begin with or are you converting from an automatic?

What is it that you want to see? The upper part with the shaft or something else?

I have a T45 in my 65 so I might be able to save you some of the learning curve.

- John
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys! The diagram helps! Looks like the clutch shaft pivots inside the brake lever pivot and both pedal arms route to the left of the steering column.
John - Mine is an automatic car that I'm converting. I'm using a Modern Driveline kit with a hydraulic master cylinder so once I get the pedal figured out I should be ok. Any pictures you have of the upper part with the shaft would definitely help.
I'm guessing there's no way I could find a brake and clutch pedal from a manual car...
Here is a picture of my automatic
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brake pedal and a picture of a manual car I found online, I just don't have any picture up near the shaft.
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I think I have some pics of my clutch pedal, and maybe the brake pedal, when out of the car. I will also go out to my car and snap some pics for you. It’s a high of 16F today though, so I am having a hard time getting motivated for that

I almost picked up the modern driveline hydraulic clutch kit but decided to make my own. Because for some reason I would rather spend countless hours designing my own stuff when I could buy a kit and save time. And probably save money too. 😳

I didn’t confirm for sure, but it looks like the manual and auto cars use the same pedal hanging bracket. Just the pedals themselves are different. So that helps.
- John
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Gearheadct you've been very helpful, thanks!
So, after seeing all of the pictures, I think I'm on a possible path. I forgot to mention that the kit came with a clutch pedal for a 61-64 Galaxie. It's a different animal though (see picture). When I called Modern Driveline, they just said... "yeah that's the wrong pedal." not much help.

After cutting the factory brake pedal, I think the pedal pads will be ok, both are probably shifted to the left compared to a factory car, but only maybe 1 - 1.5 inches, I think I'll get used to it.

Now, I just have to decide if I want to cut the return spring arm off of the 61-64 clutch pedal (see picture) and make it work. It's a $200 part so I'm stuck with it if it doesn't work.

Thoughts?
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after cutting brake pedal:
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I was going to suggest a mustang pedal set because they are available as repros. But the one you got looks like it will work better. Looks
like you are on the right track.
- John
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks John, I think this will work! The pedals are shifted over a little from stock, but I think I'll get used to it. It bolted up nicely and the upper stop for the clutch lined up perfectly with the pedal hanger.
Thanks for your help!
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Great thread! I am on the fence about the same conversion when I drop a big block in my '65 (at some point). I always found the brake pedal on the automatics to be too close to the gas pedal (at least for those of us with big feet), so I think cutting it back won't be a huge deal. I worry about the brake pedal being a bit weaker on that stock automatic arm, but in the "pre-cut" photo you have it seems there is plenty of meat behind on that arm behind the pedal....almost like they dared you to cut it 😉

@gearheadct, are the mustang pedal kits bolt ins or do they require modification? And I don't blame you for not going out to an unheated garage right about now...we are getting the same nippy weather up here in MA. I'm jonesing to go outside and do some work, but no way that's happening.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Update: I should have known it wouldn't be that easy! After looking closer at where the master cylinder pushrod would attach to the pedal, I wasn't happy with the angle and the rod was a bit too long. I decided to use the extra metal chunk I cut off of the MDL pedal and make a new mounting point. It lines up well now. Ignore my ugly MIG weld, at least it will be under the dash. Nothing is easy on these cars that's for sure!
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Curious if you added a plate to the firewall. I'm amazed how thin that metal is there. I'd worry about a lot of flex in the wall making you pedal actuation less linear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Good question;
The firewall is double wall in this area so its about 3/16" thick or so. I'm comfortable with it. The MDL kit comes with an aluminum block to align the cylinder and spread the load around the outside of the factory "race track" shaped clutch hole.
 

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are the mustang pedal kits bolt ins or do they require modification?
I suggested the Mustang pedal as a possible idea to investigate. Definitely would need to be modified, based on pics I’ve seen on line. The bends are very different on the Mustang. No idea if the length is similar. I think ssmiller’s work above is probably easier. The main benefit I see with the mustang pedals is they are less expensive and come with the shaft. Mustang uses the same bushing part number so the shaft must be same OD. But the length may be off. If the pedals are returnable it might be worth checking out.
 
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