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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This wont be in the order of the project.

But it's been a busy winter. Started with a TCI 4 link. Then started stripping the paint back in January or February.

We just painted it this past Thursday. For my first try at body work I'm very happy with how it looks. A buddy of mine from work shot the color and clear for me. It was shot in my garage. A little wet sanding and buffing got rid of the dust nibs and orange peel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Some more
 

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Dad and I did some heavy work 2 summers ago.

I had stripped the the cars suspension out and mini tubbed it before he came up from Florida. We then did the Rod & Custom IFS, relocated the leaf spring boxes and stripped the bottom of the car and sprayed lizard skin.
 

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Looking good Steve. Next time I'm out that way I would like to take a closer look-see.
 

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Dad and I did some heavy work 2 summers ago.

I had stripped the the cars suspension out and mini tubbed it before he came up from Florida. We then did the Rod & Custom IFS, relocated the leaf spring boxes and stripped the bottom of the car and sprayed lizard skin.
I have been thinking about Lizard Skin for use on my truck. Have read nothing good or bad about it from anyone who has used it. Words of wisdom from 1 who has tried it?
 

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I have been thinking about Lizard Skin for use on my truck. Have read nothing good or bad about it from anyone who has used it. Words of wisdom from 1 who has tried it?


I'v used it once. Sound deadener product, and the insulation product. It WAS a little quieter after spraying I thought, but that COULD just be because all the panels were thicker and more rigid after spraying. I couldn't tell a LOT of difference in the heat level on my feet..A little yes...a lot, NO...

It's expensive...but so is Dynamat

It's heavy, if weight is a concern to you... a bucket of it weighs at least 50 pounds and expect to use it all on an interior and trunk of your car. Double that if you're using both products.

I's impossible to spray without their gun and the extension tube doesn't work the best....but it can be brushed on, altho they don't recommend brushing (explination on their website...something about how the molicules of product distribute themselves with the spraygun.

Soap and water clean-up is a little misleading...It IS before it starts to dry, but it starts drying REALLY fast. You really need someone to help, to clean gun and cup and funnel you're using to fill the cup, mixing sticks, ect. between gunfulls. I couldn't get the extension tube that lets you spray from the bucket to work right and it's difficult to use inside a car.

Mask off EVERYTHING close by that you don't want Lizard Skinned and wear long sleeves and gloves...The stuff settles everywhere, it'll wear off your body, but you'll be sanding any panels it settles on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'v used it once. Sound deadener product, and the insulation product. It WAS a little quieter after spraying I thought, but that COULD just be because all the panels were thicker and more rigid after spraying. I couldn't tell a LOT of difference in the heat level on my feet..A little yes...a lot, NO...

It's expensive...but so is Dynamat

It's heavy, if weight is a concern to you... a bucket of it weighs at least 50 pounds and expect to use it all on an interior and trunk of your car. Double that if you're using both products.

I's impossible to spray without their gun and the extension tube doesn't work the best....but it can be brushed on, altho they don't recommend brushing (explination on their website...something about how the molicules of product distribute themselves with the spraygun.

Soap and water clean-up is a little misleading...It IS before it starts to dry, but it starts drying REALLY fast. You really need someone to help, to clean gun and cup and funnel you're using to fill the cup, mixing sticks, ect. between gunfulls. I couldn't get the extension tube that lets you spray from the bucket to work right and it's difficult to use inside a car.

Mask off EVERYTHING close by that you don't want Lizard Skinned and wear long sleeves and gloves...The stuff settles everywhere, it'll wear off your body, but you'll be sanding any panels it settles on.
Pretty much what he said, I tried to thin it out as stated in the directions. I wasn't able to use the siphon wand. And it is a PIA to funnel into the gun.
I sprayed almost 3 buckets in and under my car between the 2 products.

I still put extra carpet jute down under my carpet.. Maybe over kill between all of it. But, didn't want the heat and noise. Wanted it right the 1st time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks guys!

It's been slow since paint and buffing. I got the mounts fabbed up to make the core support removable. Engine is out to fix some oil leaks.
Going to test fit some long tube headers, Not 65 Falcon specific headers.

Will get some pics soon.

Jet
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Making a little progress.

Pulled the engine, Replaced the rear main seal, front crank seal and oil pan gasket. Ran the engine on a test stand. All leaks are fixed.

Also been working on the crash damage in the engine compartment, a litlle hammer and dolly work. And cut the area around the steering column and master cyl out. Made some fillers/ joggled the flanges and welded them in.

Also test fit the BBK #15160's. Drivers side drop right in. But the passenger side not quite that easy. My rails were boxed with 1/8" plate while installing the Mustang II IFS, so my interference may not be typical? The passenger side picture was taken without the mount bolt being installed as I was unable to get the bolt in prior to notching the rail.

Anyway, I made some marks with the engine and header in place. Removed the engine, made a cut. Test fit again, removed and cut some more to be safe.
Made a filler, tacked it in place. Test fit yet again, then burned it in place.

Good to go.

Finished up by welding up random holes that wont be used.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thank you 6T4.

Yes, the IFS kits open it up quite a bit. Have you you thought about trimming the towers back like the Thunderbolts and Crites kit? I know fitting the Hookers into a Stock car is a real PIA, and then changing plugs and or wires sucks.

Jet
 

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Yes ... but probably when I find a engine to swap in that's afFORDable to my wallet.

C/L has some jems but they want ALL the money. Christmas is coming & people will be hungry to sell. That's when I have a chance to upgrade.

In the meantime ... nice progress.

Need to post pix of what it looks like now. Rain, here, has been a bitch & always when I am off work - go figure!
 

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Your work looks very similiar to what I have been going through. my bbk 1569 gave me about the same issue but an easy fix considering. I also move the heater hose in the firewall and used custom patches for the shock towers..and core support for larger radiator. how do you like the tci tri 4 linkrear suspension? I used it also but have not had the thing back on the road!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
6T4,
Just be ready to snatch one up when it comes up on Craigslist. What are you looking for? I can be on the look out up here if you want.

If you know of any good buys down there? My Brother is looking for a driver. He is all over on what kind, I will try to pin him down on what and price range. He is a Cheap ass though.

Jet
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Fast Bird,

Nice work! I will be opening up my core support some more also. Trying to fit a 94 - 97 Mustang Radiator.
Also, I made the core support removable to aid in removing the engine and trans together or just the engine easier. Was a thought anyway. And it's cut out now, with mounting brackets.

Your running 351?

Jet
 

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Looking to score a 302 based engine. Has a 289 from a early 70's ford truck in it. Chassis dyno'd @ 195 at the rear wheels which ... isn't that bad (early 80's mustang gt range) but I'd like to see something OVER 300 at the slicks!

I'm also planning on running the super T10 that I have. It's an early Liberty proshifted version that I raced with back "in the day".

Picked up some almn. lowering blocks that I'm trimming down to get the ass end down a bit. I've managed, with a wheel offset adjustment, to house 26x9.50x15 Hoosiers. Got room for a 10.00. Also looking to upgrade to a split leaf rear spring from Calvert.

I want to make my first vintage race in Sept. here in town (Commerce, Ga.) at Atl. Dragway.

Time & funds will tell!!

Your rig is rolling right along from what I see. Good luck on the front changes. I went with a 2 pass aluminum replacement radiator. Painted flat black it doesn't look to out of place.

Paul
 

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removable core support was in my mind also but I just got impatient and welded it up. I looked for radiators for too long and ended up with one .5 " too wide for the frame and cut that out of the way also. It was an griffin allum. gri-8-00038. just got my motor back from the machine shop a few weeks ago(393 stroker,world head,victor jr intake) I am a better fabricator than an engine guy. first time with all that mechanical stuff! welding up everything was the easy part for me, the little stuff like deciding whether or not to use the intaked manifold gaskets or just silicon is driving me crazy!
 
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