[djmahler83]

.
so I've recently done a disc brake conversion on the front and still have drums on the rear. I tied the two rear drums over the rear together with a t in one line comes to the front and to the proportioning valve. The front disc brakes aren't teed together it's two separate lines that go into the bottom of The proportioning valve for the front brakes of the
I'm getting good fluid bleeding out the rear but not the front. My question is should I have tea together the front disc brakes and run one line into the proportioning valve like the rear. YouTube University isn't helping too much on this one. Any input would be great. Dustin

 

[galaxiex]

Are you sure you have it plumbed correctly?

Some master cylinders the front reservoir is for the rear brakes, and the rear reservoir is for the front brakes.

 

[djmahler83]

Are you sure you have it plumbed correctly?

Some master cylinders the front reservoir is for the rear brakes, and the rear reservoir is for the front brakes.

I think so. If you check the picture out you can see that the two lines cross each other front reservoir is for the rear and the rear reservoirs for the front that's how I have it plumbed thanks for replying again

 

[djmahler83]

I think so. If you check the picture out you can see that the two lines cross each other front reservoir is for the rear and the rear reservoirs for the front that's how I have it plumbed thanks for replying again

Maybe I have it plumbed wrong on the bottom side of the valve as far as front and back

 

[Touring919]

Did you call the company that put the kit together? I am not familiar with that particular valve so I don’t want to guess. Also can’t see very well what lines are coming out of where. I can only positively ID the inputs.
did the kit have a part number for the valve.

 

[gearheadct]

You have a combination valve. It includes a switch to identify a problem in either the front or rear circuit. Basically, if you have a leak in one circuit a piston will shift and close off that part of the valve. It will also trigger the warning switch.

If you put an ohm meter on those electrical terminals (white connector at center of the switch) you should find an open circuit. If not, then the piston has moved. This may be your issue. This could have happened during bleeding if the rear circuit developed pressure before the front.

 

[gearheadct]

Other thoughts:

did you bench bleed the master cylinder?

more info on combo valve: Brake Combination Valve Function

The brake line routing you have described sounds fine.

 

[Gettinther]

Just my opinion, your brake lines should never be higher than the master cylinder as this could trap air causing a pressure problem when bleeding or brake application. gearhead is correct about the valve, it is likely shutting the front ports down and if you remove that switch you can see ig the raised part of that valve is in position to close (operate ) the switch.

 

[TerryVeiga]

If you’ve accidentally tripped your pressure differential valve located inside your combination valve during bleeding, then you’ll need to reset it, then rebleed using the special bleeding tool.

Here’s a video:

Scroll nearly to the bottom of the link below for instructions to reset a tripped valve:

Master Power Brakes FAQs

Have questions about Master Power Brakes or your classic car brakes? Check out our FAQ page and find the answer to your question!

info.mpbrakes.com

Here’s the bleeding tool you’ll need—finger tighten only:

Pressure Differential Switch Lock Tool | Muscle Car Research LLC

www.musclecarresearch.com

Good luck,
Terry

PS– Master Power Brakes has great products, awesome customer service, and helpful content.