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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone,
I’m pretty new to this forum (in fact first post), classic car owning and learning how to work on my car as I go along. I have a 65 Ford Galaxie 500 xl 352. I have coolant that pours out on to the ground when the car engine is hot and off, since my car doesn’t have a surge tank. Is that normal or is the overflow supposed to feed somewhere else. The hose that comes from the top of radiator goes to the right and slides down a channel for what seems to keep the hose safe from the fan blade. Would anyone have some insight?
 

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Sweet and no doubt, that makes me feel a little better. Yeah that cap was bad I replaced about a year ago which was not to soon after that pic was taken. Any other tips/ tricks you can pass down when comes to installing one?
 

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i used a slightly different one, but this is reasonable. OER 60721 OER Universal Radiator Overflow Tanks | Summit Racing

on my 390 car, i have electric fans which are triggered off a probe on the radiator, so it never spikes up, but on my 62 falcon i have a setup like this with the original 4 blade fan, etc, everything, and works well. IMHO, at full hot, off, tank should be at 1/2 full. and it does purge and siphon just fine. .02
 

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i used a slightly different one, but this is reasonable. OER 60721 OER Universal Radiator Overflow Tanks | Summit Racing

on my 390 car, i have electric fans which are triggered off a probe on the radiator, so it never spikes up, but on my 62 falcon i have a setup like this with the original 4 blade fan, etc, everything, and works well. IMHO, at full hot, off, tank should be at 1/2 full. and it does purge and siphon just fine. .02

I have this exact setup on my 1963 Galaxie. It works well. You should always have some type of purge tank, to collect steam and fluids if you have an overheat. Are you overheating/losing fluids after every drive, or just in hot summer months? If you are doing it every time, you may want to look at options. What is your temp gauge usually running, high/mid/low on the scale? I added a larger radiator, a shroud, and flex fan to my setup, and it made a big difference. My radiator was not the right size for a A/C system, and one was added.
 

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Hello everyone,
I’m pretty new to this forum (in fact first post), classic car owning and learning how to work on my car as I go along. I have a 65 Ford Galaxie 500 xl 352. I have coolant that pours out on to the ground when the car engine is hot and off, since my car doesn’t have a surge tank. Is that normal or is the overflow supposed to feed somewhere else. The hose that comes from the top of radiator goes to the right and slides down a channel for what seems to keep the hose safe from the fan blade. Would anyone have some insight?
My 66 was the same way as yours. Mine also overflowed out the tube onto the ground. I ended up installing a plastic jug to the end of the overflow tube, that worked fine. Also don't over fill the radiator, keep it an inch below what is normally full. This photo shows my new radiator with my jug attached to the hose (original radiator was junk after all these years).
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have this exact setup on my 1963 Galaxie. It works well. You should always have some type of purge tank, to collect steam and fluids if you have an overheat. Are you overheating/losing fluids after every drive, or just in hot summer months? If you are doing it every time, you may want to look at options. What is your temp gauge usually running, high/mid/low on the scale? I added a larger radiator, a shroud, and flex fan to my setup, and it made a big difference. My radiator was not the right size for a A/C system, and one was added.
It’s only when driving during the hot months. Outside my speedometer and gas gauge, my dash is pretty basic and only has a few lights one for “HOT”. I do need a fan shroud.
 

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It’s only when driving during the hot months. Outside my speedometer and gas gauge, my dash is pretty basic and only has a few lights one for “HOT”. I do need a fan shroud.
If this is only during a limited time, the purge tank by itself may be the solution. Good looking setup you have.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If this is only during a limited time, the purge tank by itself may be the solution. Good looking setup you have.
Thanks for the info and for the complement. I like the setup yourself and another individual recommended for a surge tank. I love this car and had an eye on one for a long time. So happy I purchased one.
 

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I, too, have the set up that m in sc provided a link for and it has worked well over the years. I fabricated a bracket so that I could extend it out a little bit and mount it to the radiator support on my '67. When I ordered mine they were offered in both black or polished but I don't know if those options are still available.

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Wheel Alloy wheel
 
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Some nice suggestion above on how to deal with overheating in an old car.

Mine ride is a 1967 Ford Galaxie 500 with 390/4V

I live in HOT South Florida, so my situation may not apply to everyone.

Here is how my Galaxie is setup to avoid overheating:

Stock radiator, which was re-cored about 30 years ago.
Stock fan shroud.
Stock fixed fan blade (no clutch)
Heater core not hooked up.
NO thermostat. Replaced thermostat with 'cored-out' thermostat (just a metal circle with about 5/8 in. hole to restrict flow).
Aftermarket plastic overflow tank. White so that I can see fill level.
Radiator cap = Stant 7 lb.
Temp runs 170 to 190 depending on outside temp and if running AC.
Overflow tank fills up about a quart after running. Sucks back into engine when cooled.
Always fill radiator to top and start with overflow tank at 'cool fill' mark. Fully closed system.
Coolant antifreeze is mixed 50/50 with water.
I run my Holly 750 carb 'slightly-rich', which may help somewhat with cooling.

This has worked for me for over 20 years,
 

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Some nice suggestion above on how to deal with overheating in an old car.

Mine ride is a 1967 Ford Galaxie 500 with 390/4V

I live in HOT South Florida, so my situation may not apply to everyone.

Here is how my Galaxie is setup to avoid overheating:

Stock radiator, which was re-cored about 30 years ago.
Stock fan shroud.
Stock fixed fan blade (no clutch)
Heater core not hooked up.
NO thermostat. Replaced thermostat with 'cored-out' thermostat (just a metal circle with about 5/8 in. hole to restrict flow).
Aftermarket plastic overflow tank. White so that I can see fill level.
Radiator cap = Stant 7 lb.
Temp runs 170 to 190 depending on outside temp and if running AC.
Overflow tank fills up about a quart after running. Sucks back into engine when cooled.
Always fill radiator to top and start with overflow tank at 'cool fill' mark. Fully closed system.
Coolant antifreeze is mixed 50/50 with water.
I run my Holly 750 carb 'slightly-rich', which may help somewhat with cooling.

This has worked for me for over 20 years,
Very interesting.... and thanks for posting. :)

You don't say what your water pump and crank pulley sizes are.
I think this plays a much bigger role to prevent overheating, than all the other things combined.

Slightly over-driving the WP by having a larger pulley there, and a smaller crank pulley, makes a huge difference.

Is this the case with your setup?
Thanks!

Edit; sorry I had this backwards, a smaller WP pulley and larger crank pulley overdrives the WP.
 

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Very interesting.... and thanks for posting. :)

You don't say what your water pump and crank pulley sizes are.
All pulleys are stock. As far as overdriving the water pump...by having a gutted thermostat, my setup has very free flow. Probably more flow, than overdriving the water pump....
 

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All pulleys are stock. As far as overdriving the water pump...by having a gutted thermostat, my setup has very free flow. Probably more flow, than overdriving the water pump....
Gutted T-stat allows flow all the time, but so does the factory setup when the heater hoses are connected, plus there is also the bypass hose on the WP.

As far as stock pulleys, Ford had a few different sizes, depending on application, which is why I asked what you have.

Is your WP pulley bigger than the crank pulley? Or the same size?
Or smaller WP pulley and bigger crank pulley?
 

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Gutted T-stat allows flow all the time, but so does the factory setup when the heater hoses are connected, plus there is also the bypass hose on the WP.

As far as stock pulleys, Ford had a few different sizes, depending on application, which is why I asked what you have.

Is your WP pulley bigger than the crank pulley? Or the same size?
Or smaller WP pulley and bigger crank pulley?
My water pump pully diameter is SMALLER than the corresponding pully diameter on the crank. Eyeball guess: is that my water pump pully is about 75% of the diameter of the crank pully.
 

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My water pump pully diameter is SMALLER than the corresponding pully diameter on the crank. Eyeball guess: is that my water pump pully is about 75% of the diameter of the crank pully.
Thanks, so your water pump is over-driven, it turns faster than crank speed.
That is huge right there.

There was another fellow, I don't remember if it was this forum or a different one...
He had an overheat problem and tried literally "everything" to cure it.
Bigger alum rad, different fans, electric and mechanical, different T-stats, no T-stat, shroud, etc, etc.

In the end he had "same size" crank and WP pulleys.
He switched to a smaller WP pulley and voila!
Overheating problem gone!

Cheers!
 

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I run 60% water & 40% coolant in the summer (plus "water Wetter"). This combo seemed to help me lower my temps several deg.
 

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I use a plastic overflow tank from Autozone and put a float switch in it. About once a year it lights up for me.
 
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