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This is my second post on here, but I troll for information all time. I wanted to say thank you for all the great ideas and information that is placed here. Hopefully I will be able to add to the information rather then take away from in the future. With that being said this is what I am up against.

Heres the question, 1. what are you using for coil spring compressors?
2. Those with crites headers how are you changing your springs out, the lower control arm will not travel all the way down.

It's a 65 galaxie with a 460 swap already done, YEA! Right? wrong! I hope the person who had it is not on here but the monkeys they had working on it need to stay with skateboards or something non motored. They used and engine and transmision out of a 78 mark v, The lincoln transmision mount to the crossmember is near inposible to find and the rubber is non exixstant in the one on the car. The motor with the crites mounts and crites headers is well crooked. The motor is lower on the drivers side then the passenger side which throws off the transmission mount. So that needs to be fixed some how. Will factory motormounts work?

The front end was very high compared to the rear, After replacing all the shocks, the rear had extentions welded to them and the front were also rigged with the passenger front top bolt bent to a 90 and broken I thought I had seen everything. Recently I was replacing all the ball joints and bushings anyway I would address that height issue. Well imagine my surprise when on the front coil spring I found not one but two of those black spacers screwd together on each coil! Well that explains that. Since I wanted just a little bit of a lower stance I cut the coil ( yea I know), one coil each, Put it back under the car and buttoned everything up well the car now sits about 2.5 inches off the ground,from the headers to the pavment. Way to low. New springs orderd tonight by the way. so heres the problem with the headers on and under the crossmember how do you get the lower crossmember to drop enough to install the coil springs. I tried to put just one coil spacer on and see what that height is like but there was no way, I have no idea how they got two in there.

Just to complete the picture the prior owner had houshold brown extention cords running power to everything extra they installed. a switch for the backup lights, a remote starter button made out of and aftermarket horn button, and orange cord running under the car to the trunk I assume for an amp. I pulled a bag full of wire fron under the hood and the cab of useless wires some hot going to nothing! Parking brake cables not connected, They did put new shoes all the way around but for the rear they were extra lazy there was not parking brake lever or bar installed. Nothing really big just a whole bunch of little things.

I am actualy thinking about removing the 460 and putting a small block in. I want his to be a good cruiser, and a 460 is a little to much with the transmission and motor sitting the way it is. Plus a 4 speed will be better on gas.
 

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I am so sorry for you r loss by your gain! :( Let's see if I can help. :D

This is my second post on here, but I troll for information all time. I wanted to say thank you for all the great ideas and information that is placed here. Hopefully I will be able to add to the information rather then take away from in the future. With that being said this is what I am up against.

Heres the question,

1. what are you using for coil spring compressors?
It depends on the position and size of springs for me.
2. Those with crites headers how are you changing your springs out, the lower control arm will not travel all the way down.
I will shyly suggest unbolting the header...
It's a 65 galaxie with a 460 swap already done, YEA! Right? wrong! I hope the person who had it is not on here but the monkeys they had working on it need to stay with skateboards or something non motored.
sell it
They used and engine and transmision out of a 78 mark v,
sell it
The lincoln transmision mount to the crossmember is near inposible to find and the rubber is non exixstant in the one on the car. The motor with the crites mounts and crites headers is well crooked.
sell it
The motor is lower on the drivers side then the passenger side which throws off the transmission mount.
sell it give it away or level it out... [/quote] So that needs to be fixed some how. Will factory motor mounts work?
For the swap you need to buy fabbed motor mounts of make your own, or get rid of that Linc 460 and Linc tranny....
The front end was very high compared to the rear, After replacing all the shocks, the rear had extensions welded to them and the front were also rigged with the passenger front top bolt bent to a 90 and broken I thought I had seen everything.
take off all the crap they did and start new or you'll be inventing headache after headache for yourself
Recently I was replacing all the ball joints and bushings anyway I would address that height issue. Well imagine my surprise when on the front coil spring I found not one but two of those black spacers screwd together on each coil! Well that explains that. Since I wanted just a little bit of a lower stance I cut the coil ( yea I know--- He he he heheeeee silly goose...), one coil each, Put it back under the car and buttoned everything up well the car now sits about 2.5 inches off the ground,from the headers to the pavment. Way to low. New springs orderd tonight by the way.
that's the right way to do it.:)
so heres the problem with the headers on and under the crossmember how do you get the lower crossmember to drop enough to install the coil springs.
You remove the offending header.
Raise and support car High enough to allow the LCA to hang vertically without touching the ground giving clearance for height of jack at rest position.
Block front and rear of rear wheels.
Remove shock.
Remove stabilizer bar end link.
Place jack under lower control arm.
Lift LCA 1 to 2 inches.
Remove spindle.
Lift UCA up and out of the way(an inch or so to better see without ball joint stud in your face).
STAND TO THE FORE OR AFT OF THE SPRING for the INITIAL slow release of the jack to prevent injury in the unlikely event of a jack hydraulic failure and the spring flinging it's self out at 3 million miles per hour.
Slowly lower the jack allowing the jack to roll with the LCA, until the LCA is no longer keeping pressure on the spring.
Then gently remove old spring and lower LCA until it's hanging without spring pressure of more than 2 or 3 lbs.
Then you may insert new coil spring up and into the frame (USE a new Rubber top boot for noise reduction).
Have a helper raise the jack slowly as you hold the inner coil of the spring in position on the LCA.
****NOTE**** The car will likely LIFT off the front jack stands while raising the LCA with the new Coil, Use a fat buddy or girlfriend to press on front bumper or fender to get that last inch or two where you can instal the Spindle and the ball joints.
Start by setting spindle in LCA ball joint before bringing the UCA down on it.
You may or may not need the fat friend on the fender, each spring will behave differently.
I tried to put just one coil spacer on and see what that height is like but there was no way, I have no idea how they got two in there.

Just to complete the picture the prior owner had houshold brown extension cords running power to everything extra they installed. a switch for the backup lights, a remote starter button made out of and aftermarket horn button, and orange cord running under the car to the trunk I assume for an amp. I pulled a bag full of wire from under the hood and the cab of useless wires some hot going to nothing! Parking brake cables not connected, They did put new shoes all the way around but for the rear they were extra lazy there was not parking brake lever or bar installed. Nothing really big just a whole bunch of little things.
Gut it totally and go with a new harness out of another 65 or a brand new one from Painless or MACS or Dearborn classics Etc... Someone will make one or have a nice old one somewhere. It is 10000000% easier going that route.
I am actually thinking about removing the 460 and putting a small block in.
Smart is as Smart does! I'd toss it. Totally not needed to move that Galaxie nicely.
I want his to be a good cruiser, and a 460 is a little to much with the transmission and motor sitting the way it is. Plus a 4 speed will be better on gas.
4 speed will be soooo much cooler and better :) :) :)


Good luck! I want you to know this has been a pleasure giving you my opinion as above. Please read into the procedures from a book before attempting to do your coil springs if you're not comfortable with the directions I gave. They are simply suggestions based upon my personal experience, your experience may vary :)


FE
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Forgive my earlier post I work nights and it was a long day working on the car before work. I have a tendency to vent.

That is pretty much what I did to get the old coil springs out. I just was not sure if people with the same headers had a special tool or unbolted the header from the car.
As for the lincoln 460 and transmission I found a late model 351 that is a reman with 24000 miles on it that I am looking into. I would fix many of the motor and drive line issues and make transmission choice much easier.

The wireharness is actually in good shape, they just ran multiple wires fron the relay and other fuses that was a mess to remove. The only non factory thing that needs to be looked at is the horn button, again an aftermarket button under the steering wheel.

I think one of the main reasons it sits so low is the tires are 205.75.15 so thet dosent help. I'm exploring the cost of total engine and transmission swap or fix what I have already. The motor runs great, but the headers I am not crazy about we have alot of dips and speed bumps down here in old folks home florida. lol so headers that dont go under the motor would be much better. If I do decide to do a swap the 460 with a c6 should be almost enough sold to cover the cost of the swap.
 
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