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From what I've read in threads the Sanderson FF391 headers don't fit the '65 Galaxie that well? You need a hammer to make adjustments. Some threads say on the drivers side they hit or come close to the steering box and or motor mount. On the passenger side they hit or or come near the upper suspension arm or the frame.

Sounds like Stan's Headers or FPA are a better choice?

I have a '65 Galaxie with the 352 and cruise-o-matic, power steering & brakes. Front and rear suspension has been replaced. Have new motor mounts to be installed. Also have an Eldelbrock Performer intake manifold to be installed.

I would order the shorty exhaust manifolds bare and test fit. Then have them coated locally if they fit.
 

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Also have an Eldelbrock Performer intake manifold to be installed.

I would order the shorty exhaust manifolds bare and test fit. Then have them coated locally if they fit.
Be sure to let us know how it works out. Also, before you install the Performer, set your carburetor on it. Sometimes there is a big leak where the two mate up.
 

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I just had Sanderson headers put on my 65. They did have to adjust one of the tubes some, but other than that, they seemed to go on without much fuss. This is my experience. Your mileage may vary :)
 

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Yes, between the spacer and the intake.
 

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Thought I'd revive an old thread as I didn't feel like starting a new one and the title kind of works..!

Yesterday I installed my Sanderson FF391 headers in my 65. After a great deal of scraped knuckles and swearing (and some time-out thinking), I got them in. They cleared everything too, unlike some of the experiences you find around the place - some say the RH side doesn't clear the crossmember, or the LH side hits the steering box... one guy on here even notched his crossmember on the RH side, which sounds a little extreme!

When I rebuilt my 390 just over a year ago, I bought new engine mounts, and I reckon this certainly helped as many people who have encountered issues had old worn-out mounts, and an engine that sat lower than mine does. But everything on mine, in this regard, is stock.

To get them in, you'll need to do the following:

RH side - they install from underneath. You'll need to remove your starter, but that's it. Note that a stock starter won't fit - you'll need a mini starter, and preferably one where you can clock the solenoid out of the way. Getting the starter in and out with the header on is fine, however with the header connected up to an exhaust, I think you'd need to drop the exhaust to get it out; it's getting the exhaust hooked up as I type, and I'm having them flange it at both ends so I can remove this piece should I need to remove my starter in future.

LH side - they install from the top. You'll need to undo the big 3/4" nuts on the bottom of your motor mounts and lift the engine by about 1.5" (trolley jack with timber on top jacking it up on the sump worked a treat). Fiddly to get in, but perfectly doable.

I would also suggest that before you apply the gasket cement to the inside of the header flange where it meets the cylinder head, that you practice putting them in and out a few times so that when you do it for the last time, you don't end up smearing the cement over everything as you man-handle it in. I managed only to get a dab on the PS hose in the end.

One bolt on each header was an absolute pig to tighten, as the primary tubes were in the way. Would not recommend you use fancy hex head bolts (I bought 16 - didn't use a single one) as the only way to tighten them is with a spanner - hex keys won't get in there.

Once installed, the only clearance issue to speak of is that they sit VERY close to the starter solenoid. I don't think this will cause me any issues as I use the factory solenoid on the inner guard to activate my starter, so it shouldn't matter how hot the starter gets - hopefully it'll still work as the solenoid itself is nowhere near any heat. However if there's a problem, I'll get a heat blanket for it. Ditto the big starter cable - it's tough to route it down there without getting very close to the primaries, so I'll slip some heat shield over the cable.
 

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it is the same issue for a manual transmission?
Shouldn't matter at all for these headers - they don't get close to the bellhousing, so they'd fit the same whether you had a manual or auto transmission. Nothing from my C6 got close to being in the way, and I imagine that a factory Z-bar clutch mechanism wouldn't get in the way either. My column shift linkages were well out of the way.
 

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Thanks, Neeek.
 

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Ditto on the fit of Sanderson shorties on the 65. No issues at all, too, when I installed them. They fit great! Yes, you need a mini starter, but that is something that has benefits, too-- less weight and more room!
 

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I thought I'd update this thread a little. I got my exhaust hooked up to the headers through a local shop, and the damn things ticked like crazy, from the passenger side. I took them on and off about half a dozen times... Ultra Copper, more Ultra Copper, tried Ultra Black, a gasket, a gasket and Ultra Copper... nothing stopped the ticking. On the plus side, I can get the RH header in and out in 30 minutes now!

So I handed the car to the local exhaust shop and said "help, please fix it". I also handed them a pair of Remflex graphite gaskets, just in case. They belt sanded both headers, although by their own admission they were pretty damn flat to start with. The problem was where the primaries were welded together at the collector. On both headers, there was a part that wasn't fully welded! So they fixed that up, bolted them up using the Remflex gaskets and the ticking was gone.

So in short, I had to spend a few hundred bucks with the exhaust shop to fix a pair of brand new headers (I bought them secondhand, but they were unused). So if you do buy some Sandersons, have them checked over before you put them on the car, please. Fixing a set will drive the initial cost up to the likes of FPAs, which by all accounts are a better option.
 

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Has anybody installed these headers with the engine out of the car? Since im rebuilding my 390 FE i was planning on installing the headers prior to the engine will go back in the car.

Is this not possible?
 
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