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Discussion Starter #61 (Edited)
Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

Spent the last couple of weeks priming the inside of the doors, seam sealing the bottom inside of the doors, and then adding a top coat of primer over that. Nothing fun to photo, but certainly glad that it is done. I also removed all the black electro static primer from the inside of the fenders, preferring to use a good quality epoxy basecoat primer instead.

Today I masked off several areas, sanded and primered.

Sanded the scratches in the trunk hinges from assembling the springs, and primered:



Sanded/primered the 1/4 window openings where the felts are installed:





Repaired the primer I chipped while trial fitting the fenders:



That little fender attaching eyelet seen above on the upper left was broken off years ago. I used a piece of 1/8" steel to make an all new one. I simply mirrored the one on the driver's side, as seen below on the right.



Primered the inner front fenders:



Resprayed the rear valance:



Primer, applied seam sealer, and then top primered the underside of the doors:



Below you can see that I added an extra drain hole at the front of each door. Due to an internal supporting brace that can act like as a dam, water will back up there and lead to the rust that is so common with these cars. Hopefully this strategically placed drain hole will help prevent future occurrences:







This week I plan to reinstall both doors for the final time (yeah) so that I can finish the body work and then primer the outsides of them.
 

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Discussion Starter #62
Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

Had a pretty decent day today and got as far as I had hoped to be when I left the garage. Lots of sanding around the door jambs, especially where the hinges were. Both doors needed the body work finished:



Had lots of door dings and the front of both the doors were built up some to to better match the NOS Goodmark reproduction fenders that I am using.

I masked around the doors when the body work was complete:



Body lines and all work look great once in primer:



I ensured that the fenders where bare of all old primer:



And then primered them:



Had a little primer left in the gun, so quickly prepped and shot the rear fender caps:

 

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Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

Dennis...She sure is going to look great going down the track! All your hard work will pay off,can't wait to see it in paint...ED
 

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Discussion Starter #64 (Edited)
Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

Thank You Ed. It looks like you have quite the project going on too. . . . .

After 5 months of working on this thing nearly each weekend, nobody (except for maybe the wife) will be happier to see it back in its former glory than me. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #65 (Edited)
Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

Put in a few hours this morning.

Wonder where to drill lots of holes in the fender? Use a template:



I wanted to drill the holes before the next coat of primer gets applied and it was easy to do with the fender off the car.

Each of the GT's "Mustang" individual letters require two 1/8" diameter holes, plus I needed to drill 2 more 1/8" holes for the "GT" emblems:



Lets not for get about the "289" emblems which are 15/64":



Can't reinstall the fender without a trial fit:





Reinstalled both front fenders and strived for the best gaps:



Only a few headlight and valance items to strip and reinstall before final primering of the whole body.
 

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Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

Lets not for get about the "289" emblems
I love how you've kept the 289 emblems! "Yeah its pretty quick. Its only got a cam and headers"
 

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Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

Dennis,
Just wanted to jump in here and tell you in a large part because of you and this thread that I am going to continue on with my 68 project. I was all set to sell it and came on here one night and started reading your progress thread. By the time I got to the end of it I asked myself if I was crazy! LOL Once again an inspiration to the rest of us Stangers. So thank you! and good luck with the rest of your restoration on that awesome coupe!!
ken
 

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Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

Dennis,
Just wanted to jump in here and tell you in a large part because of you and this thread that I am going to continue on with my 68 project. I was all set to sell it and came on here one night and started reading your progress thread. By the time I got to the end of it I asked myself if I was crazy! LOL Once again an inspiration to the rest of us Stangers. So thank you! and good luck with the rest of your restoration on that awesome coupe!!
ken

I 2nd this, your post make me "get after it" in the garage also!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #69 (Edited)
Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

I love how you've kept the 289 emblems! "Yeah its pretty quick. Its only got a cam and headers"
"Of course its a 289 with a little boring and lots of stroke . . . " ;)



I've always liked the "Sleeper" look, although the GT accents with a few subtle changes give the car its own character so it still stands out in a crowd.

Dennis,
Just wanted to jump in here and tell you in a large part because of you and this thread that I am going to continue on with my 68 project. I was all set to sell it and came on here one night and started reading your progress thread. By the time I got to the end of it I asked myself if I was crazy! LOL Once again an inspiration to the rest of us Stangers. So thank you! and good luck with the rest of your restoration on that awesome coupe!!
ken
I 2nd this, your post make me "get after it" in the garage also!!!
I actually think that having this progress thread helps to keep me on track because I feel somewhat obligated to submit something every week or two.

Thank you guys--I am happy that this thread has given you the inspiration to not give up on your projects and I will continue with the progress updates when other milestones are achieved. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #70 (Edited)
Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

This past weekend I removed the paint from both front valances plus the grill surrounds. I then trial fitted the valances and then removed them so they could be primered on both sides. Also removed most of the semi-flat black off the hood, leaving the gel coat.

While I was at it I decided to repair the weird 1/4" dip that the fiberglass hood had on one side (factory defect.) I completely removed the gel coat there to gain access to the fiberglass mesh center. Once the coating was gone, long strand fiberglass filler was applied to build up the area. When dry it was sanded until smooth. Then I coated the whole area with a light coat of body filler which was sanded to the smoothness of the gel coat:





Then I primered the the front part of the hood:



Because of all the work I had done to the trunk lid before, I decided it would be best to resand it to ensure straightness. I used a long board first with 80 grit to cut the highs and then 180 grit to smooth out the sanding marks:





Once the low spots were identified and sanded out, the trunk was reprimered:



I also reworked a couple of places around the doors and at the top of the fenders where they met the windshield molding:







And then reprimered those areas:





Primered the front valance and grill surrounds, both front and back:







Also spent a little time under the rear painting the frame in anticipation of installing the rear springs and the rear end:







Saving the wheel wells for later, after I finish the primer stage.
 

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Discussion Starter #71 (Edited)
Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

Finally got to play in some grease for a change. :)

I dug out the narrowed rearend housing to begin assembling it. First a good cleaning of its internal with engine cleaner, water, and a toilet brush, then lots of air was used to dry it.





The pumpkin was bolted to the housing after I then tapped a couple of holes in the differential to make future removals from the housing much easier:





Then the brakes and axles were installed:



Narrowing the rear also meant bending up some new brake lines:



Next I installed the completed rear end in the car. Naturally I needed to bolt on the big slicks again to check clearances. Very satisfied with the results. The 28x10.5x15 slicks are now fully tucked inside the wheelwells and there is 3/4" of space between the frame and the sidewall of the slick.

Anyways, a few photos:













Its great to see the car roll on its wheels again.

Here is what he front of the car looks like mock assembled:





Tomorrow I'll start working on the frame of the fiberglass hood which for some reason is buckled plus I want tweak the lower part of the front fenders a little more.
 

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Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

Its coming along good Dennis...I like the way you tucked the tires under there it won't be long now keep it up....ED
 

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Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

The pumpkin was bolted to the housing after I then tapped a couple of holes in the differential to make future removals from the housing much easier:

Thats a great idea!
 

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Discussion Starter #75
Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

The wheels and tires look so nice tucked in like that!
Its coming along good Dennis...I like the way you tucked the tires under there it won't be long now keep it up....ED
Thanks guys--I think the wheels and tires looks pretty cool too.

Ed, I hope to do the final primering of the whole car this weekend. Then I can finally start shooting some red paint in various places which will allow further reassembly.

Thats a great idea!
It wasn't my idea, but I certainly know a good one when I see it.
 

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Discussion Starter #76 (Edited)
Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

Finally got around to working on the last major piece of body work--the fiberglass hood. I am not really that fond of this hood but it is what I have and it does clear the engine. Until I decide what I really want, it will have to do. With that in mind, it needed some attention.

The hood bowed quite a bit on the sides and I discovered that the underframe had buckled. I decided that the best course of action was to sand off the Gelcoat and do an exploratory. It wasn't long before I found that the frame was cracked. I started to cut out the crack with a grinder and soon realized why the thing had buckled--The frame was a single layer of fiberglass and engine heat had probably led to its demise. Since the top side of the hood was not damaged, I decided a course of action.

I first clamped the hood on my sawhorses in a way that straightened the top of the hood. This was a grit-my-teeth situation where I was hoping that I had instilled the right amount of bend. Then I cut out a 2 foot length of the top of the subframe and installed a length of treated wood 1x3 as far as I could make it go from the hinge toward the front of the hood for support. Next I covered the 1x3's with multiple layers of fiberglass matting the full length of the frame. The wood was probably overkill, but I needed something to form the glass over. Here is what I ended up with:





Looking good in primer:



I also disliked the 1/2" gap that was found at the rear of the hood where it met the cowl. As a correction I decided to build it up using multiple thin cut strips of fiberglass matting:







That ended up being a time consuming effort as I probably used 30-40 of the short thin strips to get about an 1/8" of build up from side to side. The masking tape was used to help keep the strips from sliding off the edge of the hood (which was stood on its nose during build-up.)

After I was satisfied with the amount of build-up I added a layer of glass matting on the hood's top surface and then ground it down flat:



Since the build-up appeared to be even with only a few minor imperfections, I added polyester body filler over the repair. This helps seal the fiberglass similar to the gel coat.

At the same time I repaired a dip found on top of the hood. After removing the Gelcoat a close examination showed that the top fabric had been seamed there at the factory. Since the dip wasn't too deep, I did an initial build up with short strand fiberglass filler and followed it with polyester body filler which is far easier to sand:



Next I hung and primered the hood:



The hood was allowed to dry overnight and then it was remounted on the car. I think that it turned out fairly well after some hinge readjustments. It now matches the contour of the fender. Also note that it matches the headlight bezels even better than the stock metal hood ever did:



Just as importantly is that the rear lines of the hood match up pretty well and I am glad that it worked out so well:







The green spots are glazing that is used to fill pinholes. Pinholes seem to be a way of life for fiberglass when you sand through the Gelcoat.

Next up is sanding the whole car with 80 grit long board sandpaper followed by 180 grit in preparation for its (hopefully) final coat of primer. The days of a very dusty garage are finally coming to an end. :)
 

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Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

That's some real nice work with the hood. My Crite's hood has a 5/8 or so gap between the cowl :frown:

Is that a C7AW case you're using in you 9" ? I always wondered what was the power limits of those. Yours seems to be holding up fine to some pretty significant abuse.
 

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Discussion Starter #78
Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

Thanks Jody. Short hoods seem to be a real common problem-I've even had aftermarket metal ones that were too short. It probably would have been easier to have screwed something on the the end and then covered it with a couple layers of fiberglass. Oh well, I know that what I did will hold up well.

Yes, that is a C7AW small bearing case from a Bronco and so far it has held up through lots of abuse. Each winter I plan on building an N case rear with the Daytona support, but it hasn't happened yet. Maybe when I make the swap to 4:30 or 4:56 gears.
 

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Discussion Starter #79 (Edited)
Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

Routing around on my computer and found some pics of the last full restoration that I did.

Check out those sexy legs:



Cowl vents repaired and quarter panels installed:



Installed a dash radio repair panel from another car:





New tail light panel installed:



Where I presently am with the GT:









66' Sport sprint motor, which is a stock 200ci with a chrome air cleaner:



Fresh paint in the interior:



Dupont BC/CC. The color is Tahoe Turquoise, although under the skylight and florescent lights in the garage it looks different:





Always loved this pic:



The paint came out perfect with nothing needing buffed.

Here is the final product:



His and hers:



Sorry for the crappy photos since I lost the originals (and the car) in the divorce 8 years ago. :frown:

The car is a 66' million anniversary sport sprint. All these sprints came with a 6 cylinder engine, chrome air cleaner, quarter panel side scoop delete, spoked wheel covers, C scoop pin striping, and a console.

Although this car was sound underneath and practically rust free, its life in Kansas was rough. I replaced the cowl vents, both quarter panels, door skins, tail light panel, RH trunk panel, fenders, hood and the valances. I added the fog lights and a set of original Ford green tinted glass. Of course the interior got a makeover with the deluxe interior woodgrain dash, steering wheel, and door panels. The 200 6 banger and the automatic transmission where both rebuilt by me. I had about a year in the car and it really turned out excellent, if I do say so myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #80 (Edited)
Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

This past weekend I was busy putting the final primering the whole outer body.

First I removed the valances and such from the front of the car to sand them separately, plus to give each item complete primer coverage. The entire car was sanded using long board and rubber sponge sanding block. Starting with 80gt on the board and 120 grit with the sponge, it was sanded in an X pattern until I had uniform scratches and no low spots remaining in the primer. The sponge was used primarily in the curved areas. Next I used dry 180gr in a similar fashion to sand out any major scratches left by the 80gr:



Next I sprayed a little rust preventative base primer over places that I happened to hit bare metal--primarily the areas of the body that came to a point:



Then I laid 3 coats of 2K primer/surfacer on the whole outer body of the car:



This was followed by a guide coat of rattle can spray primer:



The purpose of the guide coat is that it helps identify low/high spots and sand scratches when final sanding the body for paint. It does not need to be sprayed solid and little dots are just fine.

Using a finer grit paper (on a block, sponge, or my favorite a good, straight paint stirring stick) I will sand each area until the guide coat has been completely removed. When done properly, the body should be straight and be in a nearly flawless condition.

Soon I'll be removing the fenders for the last time and then spraying red paint in the "hidden" areas to allow the body to be reassembled for the final time.
 
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