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Discussion Starter #81
Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

Found out that if you plan you jobs right, even being laid up with minor knee surgery won't hold you back when you are bored. The bar stool and the sit down rolling seat have been a saving grace for my sanity. All I have to do is crutch myself to the garage and then sit to sand, sand, sand.

Started by hand sanding the door jambs and lower cowl:









Moved on to the front fenders:



Got tired sanding stuff and and was dieing to spray a little red paint, so I jambed the fenders:







I like to do that so that I know hidden or hard to reach areas have a good protective coat of paint. One less worry when I get around to painting the whole car.

The inner fenders will receive a light coat of undercoating before being installed the final time.

I decided that painting the door jambs was probably not a good idea until I had sprayed the trunk due to possible over-spray, so I sanded it next, being careful with the 400gr to not break through the primer coat. A good tell tail sign that the primer was getting thin was when I sanded through the light colored primer into the darker gray base epoxy primer in places:







When satisfied, I broke out the masking tape and paper:







I was finally ready for more paint. First the inner part of the doors/quarter panels were coated (which will ultimately allow me to reassemble the side windows):





Then I headed for the trunk and somehow crawled up through the gas tank opening to lay on 3 coats of beautiful red paint. I also sprayed the rear window channel and what remains of the speaker panel:



Care was taken so that areas that are nearly hidden, like the top of the wheel wells, had adequate paint coverage:









The roll bar will be painted crinkle black again later.



I didn't forget where the trunk migrates into the passenger compartment:







It turned out quite nice and is almost too pretty to be hidden underneath a trunk lid. :)
 

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Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

Looks great, I really like how your painting everywhere. The mini tub looks factory. ya did all this on a roll-about seat? That's dedication :)
 

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Discussion Starter #84 (Edited)
Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

I started out with the roll around seat last weekend and have graduated to hobbling and sitting on the bar stool as often as possible. Sometimes I forget to sit enough and that leads to some sore evenings. Overall I am better than I was and expect to go back to my normal work next week. Still can't actuate a clutch though (which I have to do too when moving the GMC out of the way during sanding and painting.) Figured out how to clutch with the right leg, give it gas with the right hand and pull the E brake with the left when it is time. What a cluster. . . . . .

I like painting as much as possible in advance of the final outer coat. It requires more paint, but I know that everything is protected and I can spend more time concentrating on the final paint without worrying so much about coverage in hard to reach areas. Being a 1 man shop it is kind of hard to paint each piece separately like Ford did and then reassemble without screwing something up.
 

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Discussion Starter #86
Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

Spent yesterday taping, masking, and taping some more:











Broke out the red juice and sprayed, sprayed, spayed:











Waited a few hours and then unmasked, followed by more unmasking, followed by cleaning up the masking:















Not shown, but were also painted, are the bottom of the rockers and quarters, plus, the inner lips of the quarters.

Pretty much all the prepainting is done now and it will be time to start the reassembly process. I am going to take a break today to be with the special ladies in my life, which coincidentally also gives the paint some time to set up.
 

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Discussion Starter #88
Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

Well......is it red yet? ;)
I could only wish. :) Got a little more done and a photo update will be coming soon.

Currently banging away on the laptop in a Holiday Inn in Cleveland. Attended the big inlaw wedding gets me great browny points with the wife. Fun, but doesn't help with the car project. LOL

Thanks for keeping up with my project. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #89 (Edited)
Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

The weekend is about to begin :) so I thought I'd do an update.

Installed the bumpers on the doors so I wouldn't chip paint when they are closed:



Installed trunk weatherstripping and bumpers:



I used black weather strip cement on the weatherstripping so it wouldn't be detectable if it squeezed out a little.

When I was painting the trunk, I discovered that the drains were plugged with seam sealer. It was a wonder that the hood was still rust free. I dug out all the old sealer prior to painting so that it will remain that way:





I then installed the trunk lid for the final time:





Ignore the plastic as it is left as a protective measure should I be spraying paint or sanding on something else in the garage.

This is how I keep track of adjustments being made to the trunk lid (and the hood):





The marks give a good reference as to where I began the adjustments.

Installed the quarter windows on both sides of the car with new plastic bushings:





Everything had been removed during the mini tubbing and I had stored all the parts in 1 box. I reasoned my way though installation and now know what every adjustment does :):



Repaired the front bumper support. The nut was gone on the inside of the frame so I welded a fresh nut to a large washer. Then I made the old hole larter in the frame that the nut could protrude inside, then I welded the washer to the frame. A couple of light taps with the hammer and a coat of paint and it is now as good as new:



Sanded and then painted the engine compartment satin black:





Using aluminum foil makes masking easier as it conforms to just about anything. It is also easier to remove than tape.





Note the radiator support has a 24" wide opening. Several years ago I grafted a 67/68 front apron on the car in order to use a larger radiator.

Started to reinstall the wiring and stuff:





Coming soon--a new headliner.
 

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Discussion Starter #90 (Edited)
Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

Headliner was installed over the weekend.

First I laid the headliner in the sun for an hour to let it get warm. This helps get rid of the boxed wrinkles:



Next I inserted the bows. Each had a different colored end, but only the rear one appeared to be different:



Note how the wrinkles have already started to subside.

While the headliner was basking in the sun, I installed the mirror and visor screws:



This helps later in locating the holes. Simply feel the screw heads and cut a little X on them with a razor blade. Then back out the screw and you will know exactly where it needs installed again.

I also marked the center of the car at both the front and rear windows and the center of the headliner at the front and the rear:



Masking tape was put around the window to prevent contact cement from being accidentally smeared all over the freshly painted surface.

I used Weldwood brand contact cement for all attachments, applying it with an acid brush. Also had a can of adhesive remover handy to remove any adhesive that ended up in undesirable places:



The factory roof sound deadening and that found at the quarter panel were cemented in place:



Then the headliner was stuffed into the car. First I installed the rear-most bow, which needed threaded over the roll bar. Once it was installed then each bow was progressively installed until I reached the front of the car. At that point I pulled the headliner forward as much as possible at the windshield area, and then clamped it in place using spring type office paper clips:



Once it was evenly pulled, smooth, and centered, I moved to the rear of the car and did the same thing at the top, letting the quarterpanel ears for later:



Moved to the sides and did the same thing:



I worked around all the areas a few times (ignoring the quarter panel ears) until the headliner looked snug and wrinkle free. When satisfied, then I broke out the contact cement to create a permanent bond. Again I started at the front, moved to the rear, then worked the sides re-clamping each area with the clips. The wife saw what I was doing and presented me with a fresh bag of clothes pins so I used them for additional support:



Then it was time to move on to the quarter panel pieces--this is the toughest part of the job. They get glued, rolled, and pinned to various parts of the panel. After it was fitted and properly installed, all excess material was removed from the perimeter of the headliner and the windlace was installed around on the sides.

Here is the final product (which still needs a rag ran over it to remove dust):






Minor wrinkles will disappear once the visors and mirrors are installed and the car spends a day or two in the sunlight.

Since the next step is to install the windshield and the rear window, I installed the clips that hold the chrome to the body:



It is a fairly messy job. Unlike later years, a 65' uses screws to hold the clips instead of the little T mounts. This requires a generous coating of sealant around the screw body and clip to prevent interior leakage.

The spring paper clips and the clothes pins will remain in place until the windows are installed otherwise the stretched headline may pull loose from the contact cement over time:



Next weekend a new windshield plus the old rear window will be installed.
 

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Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

Ive been dreading putting a headliner in my car but you made it look easy! And you even had to work around a roll bar!

I am certainly enjoying following the progress of the build. Before you know it, you'll be back behind the wheel and jammin gears!
 

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Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

Good job Dennis! Wish I had seen yours done before doing mine :) I used the 3m spray can adhesive and now my headliner is loosing it's grip and I'm seeing wrinkles :(
 

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Discussion Starter #93
Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

Thanks Heppy.

I too was concerned about the roll bar but it added only minor difficulty to the installation. Threading the rear bow over it wasn't bad and the next bow is perfectly over the roll bar (which I had 1" clearance to the bow.) I have long arms so that helped.

Installing the rear window this week end will be the real test of roll bar patience.
 

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Discussion Starter #94 (Edited)
Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

Over the years the previous owners (and later myself) have pretty much destroyed the rear speaker panel of my coupe:



Since I am not going to reinstall the rear speakers at this time, I decided to strengthen the area by building a firewall that separates the fuel tank and trunk mounted battery from the passenger compartment. The real trick was how to work around the roll bar tubes that pass into the trunk. I decided that the best course of action was to use multiple pieces of metal that would interlock with each other by overlapping.

First I used cardboard to build a couple of templates:



Once the templates fit, I transferred the patterns to some sheet metal:



First the 2 rear panels are installed against the bar:



Then the long front panel is slid into place over the rear panels:



Then small filler pieces are added in the gap behind the bar to make the whole panel the same level:



Once I was satisfied with the fit, I removed the panels and black primered them top and bottom followed by a coat of textured black:





When fully dry, the panels will be bolted in place to allow for future removal, should it be necessary. A layer of black carpet will hide the button head screws. Note: I've found that the textured paint worked great on the roll bar, but for flat panels it tends to dry with some streaks.

In the near future the remaining large opening found right behind the seat will also receive a metal covering, which will complete the firewall.
 

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Discussion Starter #95 (Edited)
Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

I can see clearly now--thanks to a new windshield:







Old one was pitted pretty badly from living in the Louisiana, Texas and later Colorado. Also replaced the rear window with the best one I had on hand:





Metal firewall that replaced the speaker area can be seen in this pic:



It was screwed into place using several 8x32 button head screws. Thin 1/16" double sided tape was used between the old speaker panel and the firewall to prevent metal to metal rattles.

Next up is to reassemble the guts into the doors (I hope that Gydyup is paying attention.;))
 

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Discussion Starter #97
Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

Dennis just curious why you are installing the glass and trim before painting the body?
Primarily for less boo boos in the final product.

Being the only guy doing the job, it is better for me to do the fitting without fear of damaging the paint. The front and rear window chrome does not always cooperate and a little chip now is easily repaired. Also, I find that at my age tools/parts sometimes like to jump from my hand more often now than in the past.

When all the glass is I will feel better about doing the paint and final assembly will be a snap. Takes a little longer, but I don't mind masking. I will leave the belt line weather strips off the doors and quarters.
 

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Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

Look's good I like the rear package tray you made. Cool how you worked it around the roll bar. When are you painting it?

When I am reassembling a car after painting I will wrap tools in masking tape so a slip doesn't always mean a chip. I also put a little white grease on the threads of screws, backs of washers, and such so when they tighten up they don't pull the fresh paint.
 

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Discussion Starter #99
Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

Look's good I like the rear package tray you made. Cool how you worked it around the roll bar. When are you painting it?

When I am reassembling a car after painting I will wrap tools in masking tape so a slip doesn't always mean a chip. I also put a little white grease on the threads of screws, backs of washers, and such so when they tighten up they don't pull the fresh paint.
Thank you for the tool/hardware tips. Glad that I am not the only one familiar with the occasional slip.

Not sure when I am going to paint it. If I stayed in body shop mode it would be in 2-3 weeks, but I may switch to mechanic mode for a couple of weeks. I prefer to have the engine/tranny installed before final paint but the engine is still in pieces at my machinist friend's place. He does the machining and I do the final assembly. The block is honed and clean but the rotating parts still need cleaned and installed. Anyways, my mental deadline, if everything pans out, is to be on the track by the end of July.
 

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Discussion Starter #100
Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

Today I couldn't get to my block that's in the machine shop, so I cleaned the pistons, oil pan, and timing cover for future installation. Then I returned to body shop mode by installing the door glass on both sides of the GT.

Cleaned the driver's side regulator and the smaller roller track:





This is my secret to staying alert during the day:



:)

Started with a practically empty door:



I looked in the shop manual and it really wasn't detailed enough to give step by step installation tips . . . .:



. . . . so I did what I usually do and just winged it.

First I installed the rear track and loosely snugged it in place. Next I fished the door glass into the door. Found it easiest to start the bottom rear of the glass into the front of the door (where the opening is slightly wider) and then shoving it to the rear which then allowed the front of the glass to also enter the opening. I then used a short piece of 1x4" to keep the glass raised during the remainder of the installation. It can be seen in the following photos:



Eventually the 1x4 should be slid toward the rear of the door:



Next I installed the wing window assembly in the front of the door, added the adjusters, and then the 2 bolts that hold the wing assembly into place:



The regulator was then threaded into the door and first bolted here:



and then here:



Next the new plastic rollers were slid into place in the greased window track:



and the regulator was cranked until the pins could be pushed through them:



The 3rd plastic roller was installed on the remaining pin in preparation of installing the small track. Then the small track was slide into place and the nuts installed. All the regulator fasteners were tightened and the 1x4" was removed. Then it was time to do the basic window adjustments.

Again I ignored the book and first aligned the wing window to the roof pillar, making sure the glass could still roll up and down smoothly. Then I rolled the door window up and installed the front window stop:



Note that it is adjustable up and down.

Next I adjusted the rear track to match the roof and the 1/4 window. A few small adjustment was made to the 1/4 window alignment to give good alignment with the door glass:



Then the rear window stop was adjusted.

Finally I installed and adjusted the regulator's stops:



The finished product:





Further adjustments will be made as necessary when the new roof line weatherstripping is installed after paint.

Once satisfied with the driver's side, I repeated the whole shebang on the passenger's side (which is an exact mirror image of the driver's side):







I had about 4 hours in cleaning, greasing, installing, and adjusting both windows.
 
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