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Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

<---- havnt read all the posts here, but i was wondering if i u sand/sodo blasted or was thos all by hand? thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #102
Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

I only had 1 coat of paint to remove so I used 80 grit on a DA sander.

I suggest getting a box of razor blades and a non adjustable holder. Its faster and easier when it works. Usually it will strip down to the factory primer which is easily sanded. Can strip a whole car in a day so it is certainly worth a try.
 

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Discussion Starter #103 (Edited)
Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

After a weekend with company, I now have the house to myself and have made a little more progress.

Stripped the dash, sanded and then primered it:





Followed up with a few fresh coats of semi gloss black:





Broke out the body shultz and sprayed a few coats under the front fenders:











Broke out the red paint and sprayed the underside of the fiberglass hood:





Also re-rubbered the front splash shields-seem to have lost those pics. Also touched up a couple of places where I had already sprayed red and had a boo boo. Besides the small nicks from installing the lower rear window chrome, I accidentally slammed a pair of scissors in the trunk lid opening chipping the paint off both the trunk lid and the quarter panel. Also had a clamp fall off when I was installing the headliner and it chipped the paint on the top of the rocker panels. Both P#&*ed me off when it happened, but now the chips are history and the areas have been repainted.

Outer body is now ready for final wet sanding and then paint. The primer has cured for over a month and should make a nice canvas for some shiny Rangoon Paint. To that end, I have changed my mind and will be using BC/CC instead of the hardened single stage acrylic enamel that I had originally planned. Seems like a no brainer at the moment.

The rest of this week I will continue to paint sections of the interior and expect to reassemble the motor this weekend. Hopefully I will have it completed AND installed by the 4th of July. I have taken the week of the 4th off and expect to have the car painted by the end of that week.

Its a pretty aggressive schedule so wish me luck!!! :)
 

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Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

Awesome work!

If I had 5 guys like you I could take over the world!
:)

As I read your posts...I learn.
Thanks

Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #106
Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

Thanks guys.

I try to share bits and pieces of how I do things, with the hope that others will be inspired and enlightened enough to tackle there own projects. I have no formal training in this crap so I try to show how easy things can be done with a little fore thought and planning. It doesn't hurt that I've never been one to sit and watch much TV if I had something else to get into.

Thankfully the truly hard parts of this project are done and now I just keep focus on that little teeny, tiny light at the end of the tunnel.
 

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Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

Outer body is now ready for final wet sanding and then paint. The primer has cured for over a month and should make a nice canvas for some shiny Rangoon Paint. To that end, I have changed my mind and will be using BC/CC instead of the hardened single stage acrylic enamel that I had originally planned. Seems like a no brainer at the moment.

The rest of this week I will continue to paint sections of the interior and expect to reassemble the motor this weekend. Hopefully I will have it completed AND installed by the 4th of July. I have taken the week of the 4th off and expect to have the car painted by the end of that week.

Its a pretty aggressive schedule so wish me luck!!! :)
I wish ya the best of luck. lol
Your car looks great. Glad you are going with BC/CC I think you will be happier with the finish and I feel it is easier to repair/touch up later

You do have some ambition
 

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Discussion Starter #108
Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

Thanks Lou.

I don't know why I ruled out BC/CC in the first place as I've always had great luck with it. Perhaps because I've only used it with metalic paint and have never considered using CC with a mono color.

Mess up the BC, let set up a little, sand out the boo boo, and spray a little more. Mess up the clear coat, let set up, lightly sand the affected area, and spray a little more. Can't get much easier than that.

Heck, it might even last longer than the previous paint job that I did on the car 30 years ago--do they still make Acme brand auto paint?
 

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Discussion Starter #109 (Edited)
Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

Little update.

Inner doors were a little rough from all the work done to the car:





So I stripped them:



I used lacquer thinner and steel wool and had maybe 1/2 hour on each door:





I buy cheap lacquer thinner in bulk 5 gallon buckets. It gets used for all kinds of painting and cleaning projects around the garage when the parts washer just isn't good enough.



I decided to hold off painting the doors for now and instead repainted the floor of the stang with Rustoleum:





I found my machinist neighbor at home last Saturday and we honed the block, polished the crank, and freshened up the AFR heads with new springs and valve stem seals. The valve seats still looked great after a couple years of use. Then I brought it all the parts home for reassembly and first file fitted the rings:







Once the block was assembled, I checked piston to valve clearance. The first step was to find true TDC using a piston stop and a degree wheel:







I then set up the cam to the desired intake centerline position using the degree wheel and a dial indicator on the top of the lifter. Once it was in spec, I installed light checking springs on the head and a dial indicator on the spring retainer:




The light springs allow me to push the valves down against the piston to measure piston to valve clearance in the most critical crank positions.

This year's major engine change is a new Bullet ground solid roller billet cam:





Its a beauty and I sure hope that the car lives up to its cam company's name:



Engine had its valves adjusted, its oil system primed, and then it was painted:





Attached the clutch and the toploader to the engine:



The major mechanicals now ready to be reinstalled back into the GT.
 

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Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

Looks like you are stepping it up a little this time with that new cam. Ought to run pretty quick with that cam.

So when should I bring my Cougar up? I'm sure you'd have a good time pounding all the 40 year old dents out of it. Can't wait to read about your first track outing with the new look and upgrades.
 

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Discussion Starter #111 (Edited)
Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

Thanks Cain. Last year's cam was something small that I quickly picked out of the Comp Cam's catalog when my old source dried up and I was in a rush to go racing. I was mentally prepared if that Comp cam was .2 seconds slower than the old trashed custom that I used the year before. It didn't disappoint. :rolleyes: Irregardless, the motor was very consistent which helped me win the local class title.

Hopefully I have now stepped it up a notch or 2.

So when should I bring my Cougar up? I'm sure you'd have a good time pounding all the 40 year old dents out of it.
I would love to, but the wife says that I can only have 1 garage Mistress. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #114 (Edited)
Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

Shoved the motor and tranny in by myself.

First I pushed the car as far to the rear of the garage and then jacked up the rear as high as possible. This gives the best angle to install the assembly:



Note the quadruple thick piece of cardboard use to protect the firewall.

Centered the motor and lift in front of the car:



Raised the assembly just enough to clear the radiator support and then pushed the lift to the rear, making sure the tranny was directed under the car:





Once the tranny is below the firewall the cardboard is removed:



Continued to pushed the lift toward the car and lowered the assembly, all along maintaining shock tower clearance and ensuring that the bellhousing dropped behind the steering center shaft:



Once it dropped into the lower motor mount brackets I jacked the tranny up into place in order to install its mounting bracket:



I temporarily unhooked the lift so I could raise the front of the car to install the headers and z-bar:



Then I put the lift back in to place in order to lift the motor to slide the Accufab headers in from the bottom:









Once the passenger side was done, then I tackled the driver's side:





The Z bar was threaded between the headers and mounted on both the engine and frame balls. Once the motor was safely dropped back onto the frame mounts, I removed the engine lift and put it away. Total time from start to finish, about 2 hours.

The old 7/16" headed header attaching bolts were replaced with new ARP 3/8" header bolts:



I found that I could tighten almost every bolt with a 3/8" socket on a 1/4" drive ratchet OR with the boxed end of a common 3/8" Craftsman wrench. The open end can be used but you much use a good wrench as the smaller head can allow for more slippage with a worn wrench.

Irregardless, it was much easier to give each bolt a common amount of "finger judged" torque using the boxed end.

I also wanted to point out something that I discovered quite some time ago concerning header gaskets. The Felpro 1487 header gasket appears to be symmetrical from top and bottom . . . . . .



. . . . . but its not.

I found that there is a difference and one should experiment with the head and the header to find the best fit. Here are two 1847's on top of another, with one being upside down:





This is enough gasket to partially block the header if installed improperly. For this reason I keep an old set of gaskets around that are labeled for the best position for my exhaust:





In a performance vehicle, every part of the motor should be checked for fit as correcting this discrepancy should be worth at least a couple of HP.

This is about as far as I will go on the mechanicals at this time. Now its time to go back into body work mode. Today I ordered BC/CC paint supplies and tomorrow I pick it up. I also reinstalled the hood tonight and tomorrow the fenders for the last time.

Very soon my baby will be wearing some fresh, shiny red paint. :)
 

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Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

I'm so excited to see the POWAH-HOUSE of this project being installed! I have read every last post of this thread and I've followed the progress since day one. I enjoy every last one and now it's to the point in the story where the suspense is killing me waiting to see whats next!

What headers are you using? I've always wondered what you run to fit the wider, 351W based engine in the smaller engine bay. I like your idea of using smaller headed bolts for the headers. Its always great when they go on easier.

Thanks for pointing out the difference in gaskets. Something I'm sure the average Joe overlooks but like you mentioned, every bit helps and looks like they're worth a few hp's. I'll definitely make a note of the 1487's when I start putting my 408W together.


Keep it up!
 

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Discussion Starter #116
Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

Thanks Heppy--glad to hear that my long winded posts get read. LOL Glad to pass on little tidbits of what I do and what I find. :)

The headers are Accufab 1 3/4" tube conversion swap headers specifically to fit a 351w in an early Mustang. Tight fit, but that is the way it is as these cars were not designed for such a big motor.

Today I spent nearly 10 hours dusting and sweeping my large 2 car garage in prep for the big day. Lots of stuff to move and much of it ended up in another garage or in the garden shed. Those items should be out of the way for a long time. Nice to see a big garage again not full of clutter.

Still needs another 1/2 day's cleaning as I now need to dust the ceilings, walls, doors, lights, etc and then do the floors again. It will be easier now as there is absolutely nothing left on the floor that can't be moved outside in a couple of minutes.

Getting closer . . . . :)
 

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Discussion Starter #117 (Edited)
Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

I found an old rubber kit with staples in the attic so I reconditioned the front fender splash shields, then installed them:





I also did the ones just behind the headlight.

Painted the inside of the doors:





Because the textured surface of the doors is easily filled with paint (which ruins the appearance), no primer was used on them--just as Ford did it. The lacquer paint that I used on the bare metal is available from most Mustang parts houses:



It sprays well and does not seem to fill in the texture.

Installed the hood:



Then I installed the front fenders for the final time. Once they fit satisfactorily, I pushed the car outside to do the final wet sanding prior to paint:





I use simple tools to do the final sanding. First a bucket of soapy water:



The main tool that I use for sanding is a nice straight paint stick that has had it edges rounded so that the primer cannot be damaged:



A DA sander with 400 grit paper could be used, but with all the contours of the Mustang body I decided it was best for me to do it the old fashioned way. It allows me to give personal attention to every square inch of the sanded surface and it does an excellent job nearly every time.

The stick gets wrapped in 400grit wet dry paper:



The flatter areas of the car are sanded in an X pattern using this tool. I begin by removing the taller nubs:



Note the rag which allows soapy water to run down over the primer. This lubricates the sandpaper and helps to keep the sandpaper clean. If I had a new car washing sponge, I would have used it instead.

Another tool that I use is a rubber sanding sponge:



It also gets wrapped in 400 grit paper and is primarily used on rounded areas, such as the sculpturing on the various parts of the car.

In small areas where the paint stick is too long to use, such as the C sculpturing below the 1/4 window, I use a common rubber sanding block:



A hose is kept nearby to refill the bucket and to do final rinsing of the sanded sections.

Always try to sand using some type of backing tool other than your hand and fingers. In most cases sanding this way will leave undesirable divots that will be seen in the final paint.

I started by sanding on the highest part of the car and working down. Here is the sanded roof:



Note how the black guide coat has been removed. The purpose of the guide coat is to help reveal imperfections and to show what hasn't yet been sanded. Here is an example of imperfections that would not be easily seen without the guide coat:



The straight lines are sanding marks left over from the previous primer coat which was prepared with 180 grit paper. Since the primer surfacer fills in most of the marks, they are easily sanded out with a little more work.

Moved on to the LH quarter panel and and worked toward the front of the car:



Note the floor jack. It helps to raise the car in order to see what your are doing when you are sanding down low. Since these wheels are slightly off the ground, wheel chucks are located on the opposite side of the car.

Sanded part of the door, but as you can see, it still needs more:







That's better. Note the gloss that was left after scrubbing and then spraying the side with a hose. I use the shiny reflection as an indicator check out the straightness of my final body work. If something unbearable stands out here, it will also be seen in the final product.

I then jumped to the hood:



Sanded through the primer in a couple of places so these areas will need spot primed later after the car is dry:



On to the LH fender:







Over on the other side of the car I also started at the rear and worked forward:







Finally onto the trunk and tail light panel:





Then the car got another good scrubbing with dishwashing soap and was allowed to dry before being moved back in to the cleaned garage for the night:



The sand job was only 3/4 done as there were many other parts than needed sanded before paint:





Tomorrow the car gets sanded again in 600 grit paper which will make it smoother than a baby's behind.
 

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Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

looking good Dennis...:tup:

i have been following your thread for a while....
you do nice work.....

looking forward to see some color on the out side...
i bet you do too....:)
 

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Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

Great post!

I have been on a 65 mustang for 3 years now... now on the final stages of body work and getting ready to paint. So glad I stumbled across this post as I was racking my brain for a spray plan.

I do have access to a booth, but wanted to do as much at home as I could. I really like the idea of cutting everything out first, then finalizing the spray with everything put together. I am doing bc/cc, but will work all the same.

Really interested on the way you will tape off to make those transitions seamless... especially around the windows...

Again thanks for this great post!!!
 

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Re: 65' Mustang GT body restoration.

Dennis, awesome work, I need to get busy on mine. Your making me look like a slacker.

Be interested in how that cam works out, I have a custom ground Comp solid roller, with darn near the same numbers, not much more on the lift, a bit more on the duration though. I got it when I was planning on a nasty 418, hanging onto it, if the BBF grenades, I will have the SB ready to drop in.

Doors came out nice, I did my rear panels already, like you said no primer. I misted them about 4-5 times, and they came out great, cant tell its a rattle can.

Chris
 
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