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I wanted to upgrade this engine a little bit so I did a few thing after some research and now I've got problems. I should have left well enough alone but I guess I'm fat headed. Here is the story..... Dad had the motor built about 8-10 yes ago. I asked him what he put in it. He had no idea so I decided to look for a cam, heads, intake. I wanted a little bit more power and a cam that had some lope to it. I know now that I should have left the cam alone but I couldn't help it. I pulled the heads one weekend and swapped in gt40p's this went okay little longer push rods and I was in business. I ordered a 274H because I figured I would get the nice sound out of it and still have street ability no need for a stall being that the car has 4spd. Manual. No vacuum issues as the breaks are manual. I stabbed the cam last week and found that the pushrods were a bit to short, I called comp and asked if the lobe base circle could be smaller on this cam than the cam that was originally in the car (comp 268H didn't know this until I pulled it out and saw the stencils on the end). The tech told me that it is possible to have a smaller base circle. I called summit and ordered longer pushrods .045 and put them in (.025 for lifter preload) I'm on stamped steel stock pedestals btw. Now I have a lot of valve noise from a couple of the valves. Sounds like there is lifter/rockers. Any suggestions? Could it be that I have P/v issues? I didn't check p/v clearance. I know I'm an idiot for not doing so. This thing is all stock fly cut Pistons. I used 93 cobra head gaskets btw.
 

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I did upgrade the valve springs btw Alex's has valve spring set I put the highest lift spring set they had available I think .590 lift
 

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... I called summit and ordered longer pushrods .045 and put them in (.025 for lifter preload) I'm on stamped steel stock pedestals btw. Now I have a lot of valve noise from a couple of the valves. Sounds like there is lifter/rockers. Any suggestions? Could it be that I have P/v issues? I didn't check p/v clearance. ...
Hi Mitchell. First — after installing the .045" longer pushrods, did you actually measure .025" preload on all rocker/lifter sets? Just so I know which method you're using; how did you measure the preload?

Next, have you repeated the preload test? Is it different? Is it just noisy, or have you done a leak-down or compression test to verify if there is any valve damage?

Although we can do some analysis on where the noise is sourcing, and what to do about it; you really should do a P2V (piston-to-valve) clearance check. This can be done by simply swapping the valve springs on one cylinder for light 'test' springs from your local hardware store. A pair of springs that have about 10 to 20 pounds of force at about 1-3/4" will be fine.

Install the test springs on both valves of one cylinder that is not noisy, but preferably cylinder #1. Starting at 90°BTC of that cylinder, rotate in standard direction 10°, and STOP. Press each valve in slightly (about 1/10 inch) to feel for contact. If no valve contact on either valve, turn the crank 10° more, STOP, and check again.

Repeat this process all the way to 90°ATC. At no time should the clearance be less than .080" on the exhaust, and .050" on the intake valve. Preferably, you should not find any point with less than .100" clearance, else further testing is recommended.

Please post answers to the questions above, and good luck to you!

David
 

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... I called summit and ordered longer pushrods .045 and put them in (.025 for lifter preload) I'm on stamped steel stock pedestals btw. Now I have a lot of valve noise from a couple of the valves. Sounds like there is lifter/rockers. Any suggestions? Could it be that I have P/v issues? I didn't check p/v clearance. ...
Hi Mitchell. First — after installing the .045" longer pushrods, did you actually measure .025" preload on all rocker/lifter sets? Just so I know which method you're using; how did you measure the preload?

Next, have you repeated the preload test? Is it different? Is it just noisy, or have you done a leak-down or compression test to verify if there is any valve damage?

Although we can do some analysis on where the noise is sourcing, and what to do about it; you really should do a P2V (piston-to-valve) clearance check. This can be done by simply swapping the valve springs on one cylinder for light 'test' springs from your local hardware store. A pair of springs that have about 10 to 20 pounds of force at about 1-3/4" will be fine.

Install the test springs on both valves of one cylinder that is not noisy, but preferably cylinder #1. Starting at 90°BTC of that cylinder, rotate in standard direction 10°, and STOP. Press each valve in slightly (about 1/10 inch) to feel for contact. If no valve contact on either valve, turn the crank 10° more, STOP, and check again.

Repeat this process all the way to 90°ATC. Turn the crank 180° to 90°BTC again, and repeat the test (for the other two strokes of the four-stroke cycle). At no time should the clearance be less than .080" on the exhaust, and .050" on the intake valve. Preferably, you should not find any point with less than .100" clearance, else further testing is recommended.

Please post answers to the questions above, and good luck to you!

David
 
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