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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok folks, I picked up my Crites 427 Ram Air fiberglass hood at Carlisle this past weekend. I’m looking for any tips on prep such as cutting the air cleaner hole. I plan on using my 14” diameter cleaner. What size hole do I use? I was thinking about 15-1/2” (3/4” clearance)? I figure to mark my center of the hole to be cut I’ll just put a dab of paint or something on the carb stud and lower it until it marks the hood and use that as my center point. I guess that would be a similar method to use to mark my front hood pins for drilling? I guess I’ll have to take into consideration the angle the hood comes down as to the size of my holes? I will be using the hinges less the springs. What about the latch spring? If I install my existing latch onto the fiberglass hood will the latch spring be too stiff for it? Any tips from those who have done this is greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
 

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You could make it look factory and just use the hood pins and no hinges.When the 427 Fairlanes were new they were cool with the hood off at the service station when you checked oil.If you are using front hood pins you really don't need the front latch.JMO
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Mailmandon,
Thanks for the post reply. If I use 4 pins will you be there when I take the hood off and hold it for me
All humor aside, I want the hinges so when I do open the hood it has somewhere to go or shall I say not to go. I'm not worried what they originally did. I wnat hinges. As far as the latch, I want to use that as well. Last year I saw a '67 Fairlane with the same hood at Beaver Springs Drag strip and at top end the center of the hood was pulling up an inch or so. I looked at it in the pits and the front had all kinds of stress cracks in the paint, signs of flexing. For an added safety measure, I'll use the latch even if I have to have a different spring made for the latch. Thanks for the opinions guys
 

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Yeah, you are probably right.I used to have a 427 tunnel port and used just the pins.It was a steel hood with the inner reinforcements removed.Going down the strip the whole front lip of the hood was curling up.I would come up there to hold the hood for you,but it might take a few hours.Better do it your way with the hinges and latch................
 

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I learned a super kewl, super easy way for getting the holes in the hood for the pins lined up.

Install the pins, obviously. Then all I do is take a piece of duct tape, stick it from the fender, (Watch the paint!!) and over top of the hood pin, past it about 2" or so. Double the duct tape back on itself, and cut the hole in the duct tape for the hood pin. Do this for all 4, or 2 as the case may be. LEAVE it stuck to the fenders, but flap it out of the way.

Remove the pins, set the hood on, get it adjusted to where you want it, flap the duct tape "templates" ontop of the hood, and presto! That's where your holes need to be.
 

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I'm pretty sure I'll end up getting one of these, and what I was thinking of doing was using the stock hinges, with I think Shelby hinge springs (whichever springs are the lightweight ones), and the hood latch with hood pins at the front.

I'm glad you brought up about the air cleaner hole though, because I had thought they came set up to use the oval air cleaners, seems like everyone running the 427 hoods use those cleaners.
 

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I used to own a real 427 powered Fairlane. The air filter element did not sit exactly centered under the hood, for someone in Dearborn thought about engine torque. As the engine rev's up or you drop the clutch it then shifts or rotates to one side a bit for a second. It can clobber the hood interior. You need to add in a bit more clearance to one side.

Wm.
 

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I've got the Crire Hood on my Fairlane, and with hinges attached (minus springs), original hood latch. Everything lines up fine with no binding. I use a hood prop. As far as cutting the hole, marking from the carb stud will ultimately get you close, however, be sure to figure in the slope that the hood closes at once the hole is in, and adjust the hole C/L accordingly prior to cutting. Could move center line as much as an inch, depending if your using a carb spacer or not. For hood pins, I simply stuck a little q-tip to the tip of the pin, and magic marker to the tip, lower hood, and viola. With hole clearnce it'll get ya there. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Mark,
By now I've fit the hood, cut the air cleaner hole, etc... I now have the problem of the hood touching the top jamg nut to the hood pin. i even bought thinner jamb nuts and the hood still touches the nuts and won't allow the hood to close completely. Did you put the hood letters in place? if so do the barrel nuts hold the letter sufficiently?
 

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Sorry so long to reply. No letters on the hood. I believe my hood pins are possibly more outboard that you suggest. I have no problem with clearance anywhere. You probably have it all figured out by now anyhow. Got some pics?? I am thinking of changing to a new air cleaner, K&N open top. Right now I have a 8x11 oval, but only 1" thick. No open top. Kinda restricts the air flow. I have a one inch spacer on top of a Holley/Edelbrock RPM intake. It allows me about 3/4 inch till it makes contact to hood. I am hoping with the air cleaner swap, I can still keep the spacer. It sets the air cleaner nice and high in the hood pocket. Makes for a good ram air set-up.
 

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That would depend on the location and size of the opening you want to modify. As seen in picture below, I plan to open the hole to approx. 11.5" diameter. Since the Carb hole in the air cleaner I presently have on the car is central to the assy., it should be a no brainer. My biggest disappointment would be that the hole may very well extend into the angled sides of the pocket. Depending on how far up those angles I need to travel will determine what I will need to purchase as far as size wise for the air cleaner diameter. The picture is not a direct representation of the work needing to be done, however it should give you a rough idea on how it can work. Obviously, the red circle would be the hole for the circular air cleaner.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I went with a 15-1/4" hole for my 14" air cleaner. It does ride up the sloped sides. The hole turned out nice. I am currently sanding in the edges for final fitment. I took a break for vacation and the Fairlane Club Nationals in Reno. I'm back at it now. Paint next week.
 

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Doug...Put up a pic when you can. I'm curious. Thanks
 

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Mark,

I think I've got a pic on Sir Greg Cook's hood. If I remember right he had a round air-cleaner and it looked good. Not any surprise
I'll see if I can dig it up.
BTW. Do You stay FE or do You have plans for a 385 swap?

All the best
Robert in Sweden
 

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Nice to hear from you again Robert. And thanks for the tip with Greg. I'll have to get with him on that one.

Answer to your Q...When the FE goes...it's gone. Windsor Stroker up next.

_________________
Mark
1966 Fairlane Club Coupe


<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: mlanden on 7/18/06 7:01am ]</font>
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·




There are some pics.
 

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How thick is the air filter Doug? Do you have clearance above when hood is shut? Looks great. Is that a Cool Blue??
 
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