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Discussion Starter #1
HI all,

can any of you post some pics of your 3" exhaust from collector to x-pipe? I need to get some ideas. Right now I can not install the rear pipes because the 'X' runs right into the rear floor pan. So I have to lower my exhaust somehow.

The Hooker 6208's are made really nice and tuck right up close to the floorboard.

Any pics or ideas are appreciated. P.S. I am only using mandrel bent so that limits me I think.

And I can't take it to the shop because the car doesn't run right now.

Thanks for your time.
 

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These may or may not help.

Hedman Hedders 18806 - Hedman Universal Header X-Tensions - Overview - SummitRacing.com
HI all,

can any of you post some pics of your 3" exhaust from collector to x-pipe? I need to get some ideas. Right now I can not install the rear pipes because the 'X' runs right into the rear floor pan. So I have to lower my exhaust somehow.

The Hooker 6208's are made really nice and tuck right up close to the floorboard.

Any pics or ideas are appreciated. P.S. I am only using mandrel bent so that limits me I think.

And I can't take it to the shop because the car doesn't run right now.

Thanks for your time.
 

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You should be able to get a couple degrees down angle at the collector reducer-to-pipe joint to lower the X. Be sure before you weld to verify your suspension at full drop does not cause interference from the driveshaft. I prefer H and X-pipes that are are curved or angled in the center so they can go under the trans tail shaft/U-joint area. This can also be done with flat X-pipes using S-bends similar to the ones scrnic1 suggested, connecting to the collector reducers and curving immediately in and down to the X. From there the height can be maintained to enter the mufflers at a good height for floor pan clearance. Check for clearances if using the shorter merge with a large driveshaft loop. I'll see if I can get a pic.

David
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I guess the reason I didn't get the "s" reducer is because I didn't see it in 3" stainless at summit. Ill keep looking. I don't understand what u mentioned about degrees...? I take it u mean to bend it a little?
 

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Right. As you are using mandrel bends, you can adjust angles by either tweaking tubes with heat, or loosening joints a bit for play and welding when at the correct angle. A tiny change in a joint will make a huge difference further back. There are mandrel-bend shops that can make exactly the shape you need to tie-in if you want to skip more of the tweaking, though it's not cheap.

David
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I appreciate that David and will give it a shot tonight. Ill have to make it work because of my budget overrun
 

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What x pipe kit is that?
 

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I got it just about right. I tweaked it slighlty which made a big difference. Just need to spread the tabs a little on one of the pipes to fit over the collector reducer (as u can see on one of the pics).
Good work, it encouraging to see as I approach my own nearing exhaust project. I would love it if you could post a video of the complete system to hear it run. Did you decide on a muffler?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
This is the xva13 kit from "Pypes". I have Magnaflow 12229's. I can make a video when the engine is running. Hopefully in the next month
 

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hgufrin, what was the cost on your kit? I am also going to be doing this pretty soon. I have been looking at the jegs kit with the cut outs after the x. PYPES XVX13 Pypes X-Change Pipes I am going to be putting this on a 64 falcon and am a little concerned about clearance with all the pipes and mufflers. I have only used a H pipe before and there is less chance of problems with them.
Are you gong to weld your pipes together or use clamps? I was thinking of using band clamps with the x pipe set up so if needed it can be taken apart if it needs to come off at some point.
On a side note and this may need its own thread, does anyone think that going to a 2.5 pipe after the x would have much impact in performance on a 520 hp motor if space becomes a real problem? I am a little concerned about it because of past experiences with exhaust pipes that were too small. Just food for discussion.
 

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One thing to watch is that you have enough clearance between your driveshaft and X pipe...My driveshaft will make contact with the X pipe with the rear end hanging....In my case its not likely to ever happen while driving the car but its something I have to keep in mind when I am jacking the car up..Try to keep the X as far forward as possible.....It looks like you modded your transmission crossmember peice to allow extra clearance on the drivers side?...That was the toughest place to get my clearance as well but with some clever welding and angleing of the pipe it was possible..


 

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Discussion Starter #13
My xva13 x pipe kit new on ebay was $89. Some guy had an extra so I was lucky. I am having the stainless pipe kit TIG welded.today. I would mess it up with my MIG. I may band clamp the mufflers. I have band clamps and they work well. I wouldn't like the looks on the "X" though. I would not reduce down to 2.5. Feels like it defeats the purpose. Thanks for the tip Frdnut. I disconnected my driveshaft and let it hang down to floor while I mocked everything up. Ill post pics when done. I encourage all to do this. It was fun.
 

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the solution to my X-Pipe not fitting was to use my saw and cut through the pipe almost all the way through. Then tacked welded it where I want it and had the remainder TIG welded shut. I must have made 5 or 6 cuts to get the pipes to fit at the collector just right.
 

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Hate to say it, but power wise, I don't think you did yourself any favors with that X-pipe... especially with the tight 'crush' bends required to hook it up. It probably would have been a more efficient and 'cleaner' install by running the pipes straight back to the mufflers. But, if you end up not liking it, it's an easy fix.

It should definitely sound different with the X-pipe.

Good Luck!
 

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Nice. Yeah, bends adjusted with cuts are commonly known as "******" bends. So long as the welds do not over-penetrate with bumps or blobs inside, it's an effective tweaking technique. I have seen functional full systems where all the bends were sectioned ****** bends, and the tweaks too. I don't think I could afford the welding time or electric bill to do that... LOL

David
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Mike,
what are crush bends? Man all that work and no xtra HP? good thing my friend did the TIG welds for free. :)

Just can't figure out what you mean.. talking about me bending tabs? I opted out of that because i didn't like the hokie idea. that is when i thought up them "******" cuts or what PSIG said.

To me there are NOOO restrictions in how I had it welded up...

Or are you saying x pipes are no go period?

Again - Im darn happy I dont have much $ wrapped up in if indeed I gain no HP.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I GOT IT MIKE!!!!!!!!!!!

NOOO these are ALL mandrel bent pipes. 3" all the way to and out of the Magnaflow 3" mufflers.... so no "crush" bends.
 

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Mike,
what are crush bends? Man all that work and no xtra HP? good thing my friend did the TIG welds for free. :)

Just can't figure out what you mean.. talking about me bending tabs? I opted out of that because i didn't like the hokie idea. that is when i thought up them "******" cuts or what PSIG said.

To me there are NOOO restrictions in how I had it welded up...

Or are you saying x pipes are no go period?

Again - Im darn happy I dont have much $ wrapped up in if indeed I gain no HP.
I was talking about frdnut's exhaust. Those ugly, crimped crush bends, pipes that don't line up, etc. Powerwise, he didn't do himself any favors with that exhaust. An easy fix, would be to cut out everything related to that X-pipe, and connect the headers to the mufflers with some straight pipe.

It will sound different with the X-pipe, but that's about it.

Sorry, frdnut... Not trying to be mean... just giving you my honest assessment.

hgufrin... Combine your installation with frdnut's name brand X-pipe, and it might not be too bad... but, still. With an X-pipe, there's a TON of ways to lose power if everything isn't just perfect. Re-routing the pipes and jamming all the exhaust through a small crossover leaves a lot of room for error... with very little possible gain in performance, even if it's done 'right'. If the X-pipe has too small of a cross section, or if the pipes connecting it are jacked up, it's just going to lose power... and crudely done X-pipes can lose a LOT. An H-pipe is a much safer installation.

Mike
 
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