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I have a 67 Galaxie with a 390 in it I'm trying to add some power too. THis is my first Galaxie and I'm wondering what recommendations you guys would give based on your findings of the good and the unfortunate from your own experiences. She's a 4-door and meant to be more a daily driver, not a drag car. But I want her to be a fun and growly 'streetable' car, like a sneaky grandpa car that you might not think much of sitting in the parking lot. Until it's started up that is.

I'm starting with 2v stock 390, it had an engine rebuild a couple years back when the last owner had it. I don't know anything about what they did specifically though, found her in a field and got a good deal since she was mid-restoration. Anyway, I have a Holley 650 4 barrel carb and an Edelbrock Performance RPM intake manifold to put on it as a starting point for this project. Currently it has Magnaflow 11235 mufflers with 2.25 pipe, last owner put these on in 2007. Stock headers I believe, I'd love to put some Hookers on but I'm still working out the order in which to do all these things that makes the most sense mechanically and financially.

She's running great right now, aside from some new shocks needed in the near future. I've been debating an Edelbrock 2106 Performer Plus cam kit to put in since I'm doing the intake manifold anyway. But then the ball starts rolling and I wonder, what about cylinder heads, maybe just new valve springs, what about some super 10s to replace the magnaflows, maybe I should just stop at the intake and carb for the moment. I don't want to drop several grand into it right now, rather save that for some paint which she needs way more considering she's running just fine. I just want to feel some more G force and increase her rumble.

Any suggestions for me? Things to do or things to stay away from that are more a waste of money than a hp gain? I like that she's so full of original parts... but I'm not set on keeping her that way.
 

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Welcome to the forum and congrats on the new ride. Glad to see another one rescued.

Really can't help with your questions other than to say i don't think Hooker makes headers for your car and you might have to check with FPA. I'm more familiar with '64s so i 'might' be wrong on that but don't believe so.
 

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There must be a balance with the amount of air going in and the air exiting your engine. If you make it easier for your engine to suck air in by replacing the intake system and do nothing about the exhaust you will have a very pretty engine that has about the same power as stock. Open up the exhaust and you will see big gains. The key here is to let the same amount of air in as you let out. Having a restrictive exhaust will prevent this from happening. As far as cams go, unless your engine breathes properly you will not see alot of significant gains. Good Luck and keep us posted!!
 

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The real problem is it a 2v motor... That means it is a very low compression motor. You need to change that in order go get good hp gains. The regular carb,cam,headers ect will give gains , but not alot ....
 

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Stock 390's never had much power. They were for Cruisin only.
As suggested, cam, headers, larger carb. or carbs., more compression and even a lower gear in the rear. But then you have the problem of expense and low gas millage.
 

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OK new kid, I want you to understand 4 things.

1: The 390 has a TREMENDOUS amount of power. Stock or not stock. Why else would it the most popular FE ever made?

2: Fact: Add headers, 4V carb, Cam to match the head flow and you have FAR MORE power that you will ever need.

3: The Compression as noted by battleracing is incorrect! Your 67 390 2V motor is a 9.5:1 Comp ratio engine. There are MANY engines with that same ration that are hauling proverbial ass. Which is MORE than you actually need for the street and to be fast enough to hang out on the corner.

4: There is no 4!

That's plenty! You need know no more other than specifics on how to pick your parts and make your build. The 4V intake you have is a good choice for driving the street, not that there are a ton of choices out there. There are no factory headers for a 67 2V 390, those are simply cast iron exhaust manifolds and they're holding back about 30 HP by themselves regardless of pipe size behind them. Get real headers and be up 30 HP just from that. Choose your cam by talking to the Cam grinders in Tacoma at Delta Cam's, tell them your engine desires, your intake style, and your head flow (someone has a chart on the FE stock head flow) Match your cam profile to that, and have a smoking hot 390 under your hood for relatively little money.


Let the Nay-Saying begin, I'll prove my point a hundred times to their one.


Welcome to FM, I HOPE you're not another goddamn Troll!
 

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FE is correct in that the 390 has 9.5 compression.
The 2V in stock form is rated at 265 HP @ 4400 rpm's.
Unless you have a P.I. engine and that is rated at 275 HP.
With the weight of a little over 3500 265 HP isn't going to made that car fast.
It all depends on how much power you want and need.
Depends on the miles on the engine I doubt you are getting anywhere near 265 HP.
Miles wear down performance on engines.
If I'm not mistaken that car probably has a 275 gear in it. (could be wrong)
Changing gear to a lower gear will help.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thank you for all the replies! Looks like new headers will be coming into the picture sooner than I thought. The breatheability on exit is something I wasn't giving as much credit to as I should be. I had never heard of Delta Cam before, they are not far from me either, thanks for letting me know about them! I don't mind having lower gas mileage or buying better fuel, it's for a good cause lol A new gear setting is something I've been looking into as well, definitely will be lowering that with a new one. It's not a PI engine, according to the original Ford Sales booklet (excellent recent eBay find) it's a 9.5:1 and stock has 270hp. The Thunderbird Special that year is listed as 315hp with the 4 barrel carb and 10.5:1 compression.

I'm just out for more power (insert Tim Taylor grunt here). Not trying to go to the drag strip, just like hanging around corners, nice response at green lights, and maybe setting off a few car alarms as I rumble by lol If I had to put a goal on it I'd say I'd like to get 350hp, I'd be extremely happy. It should be easy to at least top 300hp to start with with the new carb, intake, cam, and a lower gear. Once the headers and exhaust are replaced maybe I'd be around that 350hp magic number?

So now I have a header question... 2.5 or 3 inch collector? I'm new to header comparisons so I'm not sure what's optimum for what I'm looking for.
 

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If it's just for street use I would go with the FPA shorty headers ceramic coated. I tried the Sanderson shortys on my '67 and they did not fit and others have had the same issue. You can get long tubes from Summit and Jegs that will fit, but you will need the car on a lift or you will need to raise the engine to install them. Mad Dog makes a set of long tubes, but the first two tubes run under the front crossmember, so if if you ever plan to lower the car you are likely to run into clearance issues, they are easier to install from what I have heard.
 

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So now I have a header question... 2.5 or 3 inch collector? I'm new to header comparisons so I'm not sure what's optimum for what I'm looking for.

2.5" FPA says "All F.P.A. headers utilize 2 1/2" or 3" ball and socket collectors." Guess you have to specify when you order?"
 

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2.5" FPA says "All F.P.A. headers utilize 2 1/2" or 3" ball and socket collectors." Guess you have to specify when you order?"
Yeah.

Some already have basic exhaust already built, and some are building from scratch, hence the either/or.
 

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Some weeks ago, FPA longtube headers were installed in my 63.5 Galaxie with 352. Had to lift the engine, replaced the engine mounts at the same time.Its was some work to get the headers in place, but they fitted the engine/engine bay very good
 

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They weren't cheap, but they were not $1000 either for my '67. I think mine were in the $750 range.
 

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Paid $575 for my headers. Bare, not coated
 

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Mine were $900 something to my door coated ... IMO I would never do uncoated. way to hot for the starter,wires and underhood temps. But I get it , you can only do what you can afford.
 

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There was a discussion here some time ago as to whether coated headers were cooler than noncoated and no one could think of a reason why except in the mind of the salesman. Maybe there is a cooler point in time during warm up, but after x amount of time, the coating should get just as hot as the metal.

Now that I think about it, the discussion was mostly headers vs cast iron manifods but maybe the idea is the same. Still, would be interestiung to see a side by side comparison using a temperature gun.
 

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putster there is a HUGE differance... I can put my hands right up close to the headers when running. My friends 66 fairlane has uncoated rusty headers and you can just feel the intense heat.
 

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Agreed as I use a coating on my headers that is a brush/spray on black ceramic paint that has been proven on my Bonneville Club to drop temps 40 degrees alone on a built supercharged 3800. ;)
 
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