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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I started this journey or project in July 2005 in New Orleans (Harahan) Louisiana. This is the fifth Mustang I owned, I sold my last Mustang, a 1968 fastback, 302, 4speed car back in 1982 when I was in college. Never got over the bug, just life got in the way.

Joined the Coast Guard, spent a lot of years as a competitive slalom water skier, until I got tired of that, had two daughters and wanted a hobby that kept me closer to home on weekends.

I found this car in the paper, it was listed as a good drag or street car had been raced, and he wanted a pretty penny for it. So I took the wife and babies over for a look. It had slicks and open headers, sounded really good but needed a bit of work – the body was in really good shape with no rust. It had a 351, C-4 in it, with a 9 inch rear and front disc’s. When he fired it up and it idled, the babies cried and the wife cringed. The owner had bought it from the builder who ran it at the track. He was going to fix it up and put it back on the street but wound up with a nice Chevy II and wanted to sell the Mustang. All I really wanted was the body and rear. But the owner didn’t want to part it out, and the asking price was a bit too much.

I kept my eye on the paper, and after more than a month, it was still there. So I called and asked would he come off the price some, he said yes but not how much. So I went for another look and a drive. He showed me the car some more, it had a lot of little things that were not so cool, wiring problems, no fan, no alternator, no mufflers etc. But the basic car was solid. Again, I didn’t care for the engine or Trans, but he didn’t want to break it up. He swore the car ran low roll bar limited 12s and went mid 11s on test and tunes.

So I said, let me drive it. He said nope, I will take you for a ride, but you can’t drive it because it may get away from you. I hopped in and said “don’t kill me man”. Off we went (no I didn’t put on my seat belt – dumb). He warmed it up, did a token burnout – turned down a long straight road. Stopped and let her rip, 1 – 2 shift, it was going like a bat out of hell. Not sure what happened then, he said something about the shifter – and we were sliding all over the road. He managed to keep it straight for a while, then he didn’t, and we hit a ditch at a culvert for a driveway. The 4X4 mailbox pole was right about where my head was, had it not been for the culvert and the pole; the door would have come open and spilled us both out. We climbed out – unscathed and lucky.

I did help him get it on his trailer, and bid him adieu, promising not to suit him. I was shaken up at first, then after a day or two, I figured, the car wasn’t hurt that bad. So I called him and asked him how much he wanted for it now. He asked how much I would give him, and I made an offer, he said come get it. I said deliver it. DONE, its now mine.

A few weeks later, we were run out by KATRINA that kept me deployed for 75 days while my family evacuated home to Virginia. We got back from that with the house and car intact by the grace of god. So I started on the body work replacing the sheet metal, then wheels and tires, putting on a water pump, alternator etc.

Not long after that, I got orders to move to Virginia and take a ship for two years. I had to hustle to get it back together in order to move all my crap. After two great years in command of a ship, I am now back driving a desk, and starting on the car in earnest. First I had to build the garage (Manshack). I have gone through the engine, deciding to keep it. I kept the short block and heads, even decided to keep the cam in it. Topped it all off with new intake, carb, headers – pulled the C4 and put a Toploader in it.

Right now its back up on stands, putting in the roll bar, new floor pans and stripping the under carriage and painting the under side. I have the rear end out, putting in new cogs and spool, along with CALTRACs and mono leaf springs. My initial impression was dead on though, the body is in great shape, except for the front floor pans, and cowl of course. The rear quarters don’t have any patches, rust or mud in them. I should have it rolling again this summer. I will drive it around a bit more, doing all the greasy nasty fabrication.

I plan on building a bit more stout of an engine, then next winter, pull the engine, redo the front suspension, put the new engine in and paint it. I am getting kind of fond of the dent in the door though.
 

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Damn that's a hell of a way to haggle over the price of a car!..LOL..Glad no one was hurt in the wreck and she was salvageable....Looks like a great little garage you have to work in too....Keep those pics coming..;)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, the garage was a father in law, me project. Well worth the delay. I spent my first summer here in Va building that.
 

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Awesome stuff! Always wanted to see some bigger pictures of that car =D.

Cris
 

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Nice writeup. :cool:

I really like your throttle linkage package. It is a very, very clean installation. Add some OSB to your garage ceiling and paint it white. You won't believe the amount of light you are currently loosing.

At times the military makes us jump through hoops to own and keep them. I've probably spent more money building garages and transporting my 2 65's in 22 years than I have actually invested in the cars (although with drag racing the GT coupe is getting me close.) In the 80's I took a 66' with me to Italy and the GMC I've owned since 1974 went during the next tour. I even bought my current house primarily because the large insulated garage could house all 3 off the projects that I've owned since 1980.

Good luck with your project. Perhaps we can meet up at MIR dragstrip in the future and go a couple of rounds. ;) My neighbor's stick shift drag club goes down once or twice each year.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Dennis, hopefully I wont move again, I am near done! Depends on my next job if I stay or go.
The linkage is acutually threaded SS rod covered by steel brake line with some jam nuts and hiem joints - mounted to the Jegs return bracket. I think I got that idea off Ford Muscle, great set up, and CHEAP. The cieling, covenants wouldnt let me go higher, so the outer perimiter of the cieling is actually loft space for storage. I may cover the outer edges but I keep the center open to get up there.
Thanks for your help on pics, I hope to post more this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Oh its going, thanks for checking in RJ, this site may lure you in, and converty your from the overseas corner turners?
This car stuff is not as fun as catching dopers, but it keeps me occupied.
Doing any flying these days.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hey folks, just finished welding in the roll bar and creating a huge post for Tech Notes on that.
I rembered that I left out a key piece of my floor pan install. The E brake brackets.
Pretty simple, if you noticed on the Tech Article for Floor Pans, on the driver side I made my cut along the tunnel between the spot welds on the upper and lower E brake bracket. On the passenger side, I just cut the whole thing out with floor. Before cutting out, measure and take a picture to locate it again.
When I cut the pans out, I just drilled out holes for the spots on the lower driver side bracket. Once the pans were in, I drilled plug holes in the floor pans, screwed the brackets back in place using a few sheet metal screws and then plug welded them in.
I hope to have some posts on the roll bar project this week.




 

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Discussion Starter #10
I figured I would update this a bit, been trying to get some headway on this car; between shower faucets, mulch, kids, car clubs, and oh yeah work and traveling for work.

Got the gas tank and plumbing sort of back in, roll bar is in, floor pans are in, sealed up all the seams and POR 15'd everything and topped it off with some satin black.

Working on modifying a set of Mazda Miata seats to fit now. Thats a challenge, one darn near bolts right in with some mods to the tracks and fabbing some studs onto the track. However, the driver tracks are an inch narrower, so I am having to make up a plate, fab studs to that etc. I like these seats though, cheap (you can find em all day long $80 a pair - need covers though), thin profile and a lot lighter than the Fox body seats I had.

Here are some pics to chronicle the work, none on the seats yet though other than sitting in the car mocking up the roll bar.













 

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Discussion Starter #11
After three weeks of being gone for training for a new assignment, followed by week at Disney World, now back in the real world of work dealing with contingencies for this flu thing, I am getting little done on the car.
I did manage to get the seats, front and back from the upholstery shop, still waiting for the interior panels to come back from the soda blaster. The seats came out great; Tim’s Upholstery in Suffolk VA did em up for me.



I also managed to paint up the rear end (Tech Article posted on getting that thing to shine). I fabricated the rear spring shackles myself, trying to upgrade from the stock stamped stuff.





I managed to get the 3rd member into the housing, no big deal, then get the CALTRAC split Mono springs mounted, then muscled or finessed the housing and 3rd member up into the car by myself. That was fun, but not too hard. I used all my tools, dollies and jack with stands to work it up there.
The rear is hung and bolted in, finished up the rear brakes then will be moving onto the wiring.


I did learn a lesson, I followed Dennis11’s article to mount my drive shaft loop on bolted pads so I could remove it. You need to follow the floor line vice straight across if you want your exhaust to clear. It’s all working now, thanks Dennis.
 

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Seats looks awesome!..What where they originally out of?..The rear end looks like its coming along nicely as well...I have to weld in some connectors for my driveshaft loop as well..My problem is my 3 inch X pipe exhaust is right in the way...I either have to get creative with the loop or get some new head pipes made that will give me more room.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
thanks, the seats are out of a 90's Mazda Miata, took a little finagling but I got them to bolt up to the orig seat pans (Tech Arti on that process).

A friend of mine has a 514 in his 67 coupe, and its slammed, he went with a 3.5 inch oval exhaust, but it cost him 1500!

Hope your well, thanks - gydyup./
Seats looks awesome!..What where they originally out of?..The rear end looks like its coming along nicely as well...I have to weld in some connectors for my driveshaft loop as well..My problem is my 3 inch X pipe exhaust is right in the way...I either have to get creative with the loop or get some new head pipes made that will give me more room.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I made over my rear end, couldnt afford or didnt want to afford powder coating,
I had the rear out doing a 3rd member overall, floor pan and roll cage install. So as I am putting it back together I am painting and detailing it. I was going to paint the rear-end gloss black, declare victory and move on. But my buddy tells me, “You ought to paint it with caliper paint that stuff really shines”.
What the heck, so I took it a step further. I scraped all the old grease off it, wire brushed it really well, hit it with some 100 grit paper and primed it for giggles. I was not putting a lot of effort into this.




Then I sprayed it with the Duplicolor Gloss Black caliper paint, with ceramic, WOW! I was stunned at how this stuff laid out and looked like it was powder coated or clear coated. The places I had marginally sanded were like a wet mirror, the only imperfections was some pitting to the steel on the tubes. I kept thinking it was still wet, but the next morning it was still super slick, glossy black.

I finished putting the 3rd member together and mounted that, managed to get the whole rear minus the brakes back under the car and mounted on the new CALTRAC mono’s by myself (that could be a article on ingenuity and using your tools right there). The most difficult part was not scratching it and having to be careful since it was so nice.




It’s a great way to make that rear pop. The pictures just don’t do it justice.
Enjoy and work safe, Gydyup!
 

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That OL Mustang is coming along real nice, lots of progress since last checking in.

The seats look good, as well as the Roll Cage. Looks like the old Industrial Arts Teacher still has the skilz.

Kart racing this upcoming weekend time to get the race face on!

Semper Peratus
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Re: 67 Mustang Coupe - Gydyup

It has been a while since I have updated this. Anytime you go to your Making Progress thread and you find it on page 3 – it’s been too long. I have been plagued with a new assignment, keeping the kids and wife happy this summer, trying to start and keep a local cruise running and other things.
I left off with the rear end, I had some threads on a bud who boned me on my gear set up, so I had to re do that, and remove/replace the hogs head after I had it all buttoned up. I fabbed up a good hogs head cradle and did this solo. I will be posting a Tech Art on that soon.

I attacked the brake system, new MC, new SSBC prop/combo valve, line lock, all new hard lines and soft hoses, replaced the front and rear wheel studs, shoes etc.







<a href="MAKING PROGRESS 8 09 :: P1010117.jpg picture by Gydyup - Photobucket" target="_blank"><img src="http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff303/Gydyup/MAKING PROGRESS 8 09/P1010117.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
I moved back to the engine, installing an Evac system to the exhaust pipe just beyond the collector. The Heddman’s don’t offer any room between the collector and frame, not much more around the bell, with the bending of the pipes and this only being a Temp system for this motor, I plumbed it to the exhaust pipe. Lots of great help from the folks on this site when it didn’t work. Who knew brand new evac systems wouldn’t open, I got the working valves from NAPA.


The whole genesis of this winter project was a floor pan, roll bar, and CALTRAC install, it got out of hand. My philosophy on this project is building it from the rear forward, I figure with 31 spline axles and a spool my rear is good, the CALTRACs and split mono’s are good, so the next in line is the drive shaft. I upgraded to the Inland Empire 3.5 aluminum with 1350 joints/yokes. Inland Empire ROCKS. What a bunch of patient folks as I went back and forth on the drive shaft I wanted, ultimately going big which keeps me from busting things later on with more HP. Robert was on my emails daily, always responded. When I got the shaft, there was a hiccup with the slip yoke. All I heard from them was, another is on the way, don’t sweat it. I have never had better customer service on any thing in my life. I could have gone a bit cheaper and saved 50 bucks maybe, but not worth it with the support you get in my opinion.





My next weak link maybe my Tranny, I may have to make a road trip to PA to get Dennis to help me with the big block IP/OP shaft updgrade.
I have been rowing my gears with a Comp Plus shifter. The only automatic car I ever owned other than my 94 truck was this car, and the C4 and stall are on the garage floor. In my other Mustangs, I never used anything but a Super Shifter or V-Gate. One of these days I will get this car down the track, and I didn’t have any confidence in the Comp Plus so I went back to my roots (I don’t lift when I shift). These shifters are not for the faint of heart when it comes to consoles, or cutoff wheels. But you don’t know what your missing if you have not pulled gears with one of these shifters. I did make my trans tunnel mods in one cut, and kept the piece along with the comp plus, so I can put it back together again. I will put insulation and carpet in the car, it is hotter than hades right now!




I also tried my hand at painting some interior parts. I had my rear panels soda blasted, as they had been painted with the car and were shiney and the grain was covered. I used the Mustangs Unliminted light blue interior paint. I am amazed how well this game out. Nice semi or subdued finish with the appropriate grain showing. Lots of very thin coats to get it, but you cant tell it’s a rattle can job. The pic really doesn’t do it justice.

I also re wired my battery and fuel pumps, added some bling to my sump.


I actually started talking to a couple of body shops this week, I have my door skins and fender. The rest of the summer I am just going to tinker, drive and work out some bugs. This winter I plan on going through the front suspension, replacing the front inner fender skirts. I am talking to a good body/paint guy – I may get rid of my beloved dent in the door and rocker and that god awful paint job. I am amazed at how many folks tell me this paint job is a "master piece" and I need to keep it or re do it. I am a meat and potatoes guy, and the 80's were not really good to me.

 

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LOL! The graphics style 80's paint job looks good! I like it! :0) It's different! Keep up the great work! I always get motivated when I see your car and projects.
DJ
 

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Thanks, now if I can get it to go like yours, I would be complete!
Man I love the seats,and the V-gate looks bad arse!
Nice work!!
 
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