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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
Early Mustang Handbrake

I wanted a center console handbrake in my car, the under dash hand brake was just a bad design.


A lot of good designs and off the shelf stuff out there, but I wanted to keep it simple, and affordable. I liked what Daze cars did, but a lot of work going into making the cable transition, modifying the late model handbrake to work with early model stuff. I went a different route.
I used a early Fox non adjustable hand brake for 25 bucks, copied and made a junction block much like Lokars connector, made some rollers (probably can get these off the early Fox too, but summer time in a junkyard is not where I wanted to be wallowing around). Then I used my original E brake cables.

Getting someone to swedge an E brake cable is impossible around here, so the junction block to adjust and keep the cables is the result of that, and I borrowed Daze keepers as a backup.

Starting from the rear, I fabricated and welded rollers to guide the cables into the tunnel, I bought these from McMaster and Carr, and made the mounts out of angle and flat bar. Then I made some guides in the top of the tunnel to keep em tidy. The cables run into the junction block I made from ¾ Alum flat stock, drilled holes for the cables, a center hole to attach the stock Fox adjuster hook, then drilled and tapped three holes for blind allen set screws to hold them. Then for and extra measure, I used tube nuts, drilled in the center, and used ball bearing s and bolts to further clamp the cables. Works like a champ, probably have 35 bucks in it, and I have yanked it, and no slippage.










































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very nice, love the rollers, gonna have to totally copy you. I have the cable holder by lokar,
Drive shaft clears cables okay?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
very nice, love the rollers, gonna have to totally copy you. I have the cable holder by lokar,
Drive shaft clears cables okay?
Yes, plenty of room and I am running a huge 4 inch alum drive shaft and hoop. KISS, keep it simple! I think the one thing I neglected that I had to fab, and if your using the Lokar block, may not be an issue, but I had to make that bolt that goes through the center of the block and hooks to the factory Fox adjuster bolt...an eye bolt is too big so I used a bolt and welded a flat tab with an eye on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I did this mod a wile ago, so my old brain isn't what it used to be. I will edit, update this later, but in chatting with Royster...one thing to consider with your project. My car is mini tubbed with a shortened rear, the leaf springs were relocated in 3 inches each side. Where my front spring mounts, its busy with a big old spring mount box, and the Caltrac bars, shocks are mounted much differently etc. So the Ebrake cables wouldn't really travel through all this well on mine.


Soooo, in order to get my cables into the tunnel, clear the new spring perch boxes, Caltracs, lowered shock mounts, etc, I need to re reroute my cables. Where most come out of the brake and go up and are hooked into mounts on the sides of the frame rail/unibody frame, into those welded on tab/brackets


I removed those stoppers or brackets, and routed my cables up along the front portion of the differential tunnerl, welded the brackets up in there, then used the rollers to make that tight turn into the drive shaft tunnel. On a stock rear, your choice, you can make it work just like Daze or Lockar using the original mounting locations for your e brake sheathing into the brackets, then angle over towards the drive shaft tunnel.
 
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