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Discussion Starter #1
trying to work in rear shock r&r in between rain/colder temps, already sprayed bottom nut with penetrating oil, because car is flat on ground cannot see top, it doesn't penetrate the trunk pan does it? I briefly looked in trunk, didn't see anything. How is top of rear shock fastened?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok, changed those. In case it helps anyone in future, the rear shock top is only about an inch or so below floorpan. The nuts backed off fairly easy until they got near full release where the threads were rusty (these were original shocks I believe), at which point the real fight began. A cheap harbor freight ratchet box end in 9/16ths is your friend. After having to hold the nut for awhile and spin the upper portion of the shock by hand I finally had to resort to large channel locks to keep slowly spinning it (to make the nut back off). I dropped the lower end off it's perch. At some point, you can finally get a socket on top of the old shock tip and finish removal. I used a metric 1/4" socket, can't recall size, probably around 8mm or so. This was all in fairly tight space working around dual exhausts and differential and trouble light.
 

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What a PITA. Hope my 65 is not like that. Guess there's no room up there to saw off the bolt?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
What a PITA. Hope my 65 is not like that. Guess there's no room up there to saw off the bolt?
Puttster, I would speculate it is, I think 65 and up suspension similar. No, I doubt I could have sawed anything. It's very tight. About best I could recommend is start a week before with your on ramps and begin oiling them down with PB blaster or similar. Maybe you could get small metal bristle brush up in there to clean the threads or something. It's the threads that get corroded, the nut's not on there tight at all. and you have to lay there 1/2 way under car and think about it falling on you the whole time, that's the part that gets tough for me sometime. I even went and bought a special shock absorber removal tool, but the shock tip is just way too close to the floorpan to get it on.
 

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I didn't seem to have a problem with those nuts on top of the rear shocks at all. I suppose having the gas tank out helps. Even if it was in, there is adequate room to get to the nuts if you have the right wrenches.
 

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I had no issues with mine either, right size ratcheting wrench makes it simple enough. Of course there wasn't a lot of corrosion on my suspension parts before the rebuild.
 

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Yea the top bolts are a pain to get too if your a big guy like me but with the rite tools theres no need to cut em off unless theyre stripped.. im doing the same project just replaced my shocks now im working on my coil springs. got the rear end of my car dropped like a lowrider lol bumper is sitting on the ground
 
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