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Discussion Starter #1
This is my newest project. Only been working on it for 12 years, (don't want to rush into anything). But money, moving and current situations, as we all know happens, have taken it this long. Central Utah Cat and now a Nevada Cat. Got it in Aug 2008 for $400, 289, C-4, 8", PS, XR7 emblems. I am 2nd owner, with 56K original miles. Knew the first owner and know the history on it. I did some serious research on it because, when I pulled it apart, on the lower radiator brace was 427 painted on it. Come to find out the 1st owner had ordered it has a GTE Dan Gurney when they were still putting 427s in them. But the order was cancelled by Mercury and they just got it with the standard 289/C-4, RATS.
After about 15 years they gave it to the grandson to drive and never changed the title for insurance reasons. One night he over reved it and broke a piston skirt. Parked it and let it set (outside) until I bought it.
This week she goes back to Utah, a much better shop then did my 66 Stang, for a body remake. Only this time she won't have the little 289, (block is now a 331 stroker in my 66 Stang) she'll have a 460, C-4, Currie 9" 3.50 posi just to name some of the changes. I even had the gauges rebuilt by a shop in NC. He changed the 120 speedometer to a 140 and the tach from a 6-8grand and set the tach up for an electronic dist. Old one would have fried if I'd tried it. Other gauges are oil, trans, diff temp along with the factory ones.
 

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Pulled the old engine to go in a new home, 66 Stang using my "Redneck" engine hoist, trailer winch. and pulled her apart.
 

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One thing I have learned, "school of hard knocks" take pics of everything. Helps to put them back together when you have to wait a few years. I did a mock up of the engine and installed it to do all the cutting and mods, even for the trans, engine coolers and Rad. Better to do them before the body shop does their thing. Also before the machine shop does their thing.
 

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Took her down to a shell and sandblasted all the body parts and many misc pieces. Had many pieces powdercoated. I traded work for free sandblasting and powder coating. Now the body this week goes to be done. Engine and trans done. Cooling system mocked up and ready, New disc brake system ready. New Currie 9" 3.50 posi with 31 spline forged steel axles and 11" brakes. Even had to have the disc brake lines modified to mount to the frame and work with the caliper mounts. (nice to have the shops needed in this area that can and will work with you on this). Rebuilt the taillights (very pricey) and converting to the newer sequencial system. Also converting the vacuum "hide away" headlights to a newer electric open/close system.
 

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And it's off to the body shop with all the replace sheet metal. 8-10 weeks including painting. Took it over to Utah last weekend and dropped it off. The engine pics are a few little tricks I've learned. Safety wire oil pump bolts and I made my own valley tray. I once had a rocker nut loosen and the pushrod came out and then the lifter popped out. Took me 3 hours to get the lifter back in without pulling the manifold. Not only does this prevent that, but also keeps oil from splashing in the intake bottom and helps make it flow back to the oil drains. I did this also on my Stangs 331 stroker.
 

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Getting her done. Body shop with tools and talent is the key. He replaced only part of the bat apron due to VIN # stamping on the where the fender bolts to it. Be very careful when working on any body part that has a VIN stamping. Check your state and Federal laws before doing a VIN make over. Some states, even if you do it yourself on your car, IT'S A FELONY, VIN tampering. It was done by the guy who did my 66 Stang and thought he could hide it under a fender. He was charged with felony VIN tampering and was lucky. He only got a 10yr deferred judgement and his shop shutdown. But due to his arrest and being charged, he got a FBI # for life that will show up on any background check. (old and illegal stamp in picture). Some Cougar process pics included here.
 

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