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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Looking good, Very nice.
I would have put that guy on a rotisserie.
Just out of curiosity, why did you decide to go back with drum brakes on new rearend?
I like drum and when you power brake an auto trans for drag racing, drum actually work better, release quicker, less chance of drag, when used.
A rotisserie? You mean like this? He didn't want to. I bought it for his shop and took it off the bid amount. After he used it, (when he said he didn't need/want one) he loved it.
Getting the front suspension in and adjusted. Switching to SSBC front manual disc with new spindles also. Did a little Shelby mod to the lower control arms to reenforce them. Had to drill holes for the sway bar link, and strut rod nuts.
 

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1966 Galaxie
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Thats what I figured but gotta ask or ya dont learn, same reason i stayed with drums.

If a body guy doesnt want a rotissirie then he doesnt want to do restorations, thats nuts.
We built a rotissirie just so we could have one around, used it twice but its there when we need it. Cant trust many paint/body guys now. All after the quick insurance money. Most have no clue how to use filler or sand by hand, most have never had/wanted to do it.
They just order a new part and "blend" the paint on panels.

Oh well your past that part, time to start enjoying the journey馃憤
 

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Wow Ricky. Just stumbled on this today. You got a nice one here. I am following.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Getting there. Doing the front suspension now so I can get the brake system installed and working. Some of the small pieces I sand blasted and powder coated. Just about anything metal that was removed was sand blasted and powder coated. (worked at a powder coating shop for a little while so I got it all for free)
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Rearend done, except for bleeding the brakes. Waiting for the fender rubber gromments to finish that off. Doing the trunk lid seal is a pain in the butt. No easy way to glue it on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
All most have the dash wiring, heater box, wiper system done. That was fun figuring out which way the wire ran best and fixing all the "*******" engineering from over the years. Still waiting for a few steering column parts to rebuild the steering turn signal system.
I used thermal insulation on the floors for heat and noise. I put a 20 gal Stang fuel tank in it and that worked out easy to the filler neck. Next week when it cools down a little, this 95+ stuff sucks, time to do the engine and trans.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Looking good. That big block really fills up the engine bay. What hood are you using?
Factory with scoop. Biggest thing I found was air cleaner base, drop or raised, makes a big difference. Made some measurements before the engine went in. Not much room.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Put 7 of the pipes in today. I didn't put #5 in so I could do a systems check on the oiling and check for any leaks. The 7 pipes only took 2 hours and I wasn't pushing it. 50 years of doing headers on SBF/BBFs didn't hurt either along with all the "special wrenches" you acquire doing this stuff. Nice fit and easy install on the pass side. I could lower several pipes down from the top. Driver's side, if you had PS/PB you'd have to remove them to do the driver side install. That or be really into pain.
 

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really clean install, Ricky. Looks great
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
Now we have the pipes in completely and tight. Easy fit, probably 3 hrs total working slow and easy. 2 hr if you're in a rush. These are 3 1/2" collectors, with no PS, PB. There is a 2" extra pan drop, so a stock pan would have the headers below the pan sump. Oil cooler line are 1/4" clearence.
 

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