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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
Well hooked up the battery today. Today blow any fuses after all the wiring I had to fix. Key in ACC or run and everything powered up like it should. Courtesy lights even came on.
Something very interesting about all this is, using a C-4 to a 460 with a Ford D5 bellhousing was as easy as it looks. C-4 with a 26 spline input shaft and a 351M (429/460) bellhousing. Now the 385s use a 11 7/16" or 11 1/2" convertor bolt pattern. No problem you say because the C-4 convertor come in 26 spline and those bolt patterns. 351M uses a C-4 style convertor with a 10 1/2" bolt pattern. 385s don't have that. But when I tried to use a C-4 Cvtr against the 460 flexplate, it froze the engine up so , no turny. Back it off some AKA 1/8" and it turns. WTF. C-4 cvtr does have the recessed inner hub for the 385s crank bolts. You can see the bolt marks.
I had a C-6 , 26 spline that went in the trans fine but bolting it to the block seized the engine again. Back it off 1/8" and we're fine. Research shows the 351M uses 289/302/351W,C flexplate and that's the difference. Called PA that makes a C-4-385s bellhousing adapter and they suggested using the C-4 with washers to move the C-4 cvtr away from the crank bolts or 2 block plates for spacers. They didn't say if they bellhousing allowed for this issue. $700 is a big gamble to find out. C-6, 26 spline cvtrs are also very pricey compared to the 30/31 spline ones and not many available.
Now doing more research I found a 1/8" block plate made by Quick Time and PA makes a 26-31 spline adapter for the C-6 cvtrs.
Now to get it up and running and see how it works.
But no where have I seen any info on this "little" issue. Feedback would be nice what others have done.
On of the things Fordmuscle Forums needs is a section on just swaps. Not parts, but engine, trans, eng/trans, brake systems, rearend from one year/model to another. I've done 2 Mav swaps to 351Ws. 1 from a 302 to a 351W and another from a 6 cyl to a 35W. 66 Stang from a 200 , 3 spd to a 331 stroker C-4, 8" and a few others. This will help others to avoid mistakes and costs that doing swaps always seem to have.
 

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Wow, you have got alot done since getting out of paint jail. I admire your ability to reassemble all that....you must have done it a few times? Or your memory is still brilliant. Looking great sir.
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
Wow, you have got alot done since getting out of paint jail. I admire your ability to reassemble all that....you must have done it a few times? Or your memory is still brilliant. Looking great sir.
Teardown pictures help. So far the wiper motor works as does the heater motor. I have the drive train in including a new driveshaft. Exhaust system, suspension, brakes still getting all the air out but it's almost done. Dash and rewiring all the bailing wire and bubble gum mods is the fun part right now. Have the cooling system in and filled with no leaks. Trunk area is done, headlights and taillights work.
But the dash wiring is really taking some time and the heat makes it only possible to work a few hours a day. Basicly bringing it back from being dead for over 3 decades. Had issues with the C-4 to a 460 setup. Torque convertors just didn't like the engine and trans. It required a 1/8" spacer to keep the eng/trans from binding up when bolted together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
This is what the dash looks like. Put it in and out about 5 times. Finally installed the steering column. Made it easier to play with it. Didn't like the way some of the stuff was wired up so I redid it. Always works on paper until you start installing everything together. That and finding out what works and what has to still be fixed. Next is rewiring the headlights to a electric motor for opening vice vacuum and rewiring the tail lights to a better sequential system to upgrade them. Also installing rear interior "opera" lights that it didn't hae but was an option. Wiring is there, just never had the lights. They're $50 bucks for used ones.
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 · (Edited)
Radio and 5, 60watt speakers work great. Got the neighbor's attention. All while using my cigarette lighter and ash tray. Getting there piece by piece. Engine oil temp gauge even showed it was 105 degrees already. To hot to work any more today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
Well got the rear window in after having them (limo) tinted. Also have the headliner in, (hate doing those and never get them right) installed opera lights that it didn't have, carpet, shifter, and the rear seat, rear side windows and rear panels. The seats and panels are the factory original and only cleaned.
So when you look at my headliner, feel free to LOL at it. But have at 100+MPH, who will be worrying about it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 · (Edited)
Well I got the doors assembled yesterday and today. Smoke here and 100+ deg heat only gives me a few hours to work on it. But I got the door glass in and the latch assembles. Now for that rubber seal around the door. I wonder what they used and how they did it back in 68.
I made my own fuel pump bleed off, using the pipe "T" and the hose nipple has a pipe plug tapped inside it with a .060" hole to bleed fuel off. Still maintains 5 psi at the pump. And the supply hos is actually 4" from the exhaust pipe. Angle makes it look much closer. Just about have all the systems tested for start up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
Here's one for you engine fans, Did the engine run in, went nicely, and had minor leaks to fix. No surprise there. But I decided to change the 5/16" pushrods to 3/8" which also requires bigger guide plates. when I checked the rocker stud, looking at it the threads seemed a little short for my roller rocker arms.
The studs are 1 3/4" from guide plate base to top. The ploy lock allen screw was a little far down in the poly lock for my "warm fuzzy" feeling. So I changed to the longer 2" studs and that gives me 1/4" more threads on the ploy lock and the allen screw is now at the top of the poly lock instead of down inside it. If you use use regular rocker arm nuts or non-roller rocker arms, the shorter studs work perfectly. If roller rocker arms and poly locks, use the longer ones.
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
Got her and running.I used an older style points dist because they work everytime when doing a start up and breaking in the cam. Then I switched to my electronic one. Pulled the engine and trans out again so I could make some design changes and go to a higher RPM converter. Using a C-4 behind a 460 or 429, does require some interesting stuff to make it work. (have to do a tech article for that someday) but once sorted out. It works great and is so much easier to work around then a C-6 would be.
I changed the pushrods/guide plates to beefier 3/8" so I could in the future run higher spring pressures if I wanted. (have a set of 5/16" pushrods and guide plates with studs if anyone wants them).
I did find that working on the eng/trans with out the front fenders on is much easier then with them on. One thing I did find is my trans didn't have any built in vent for it. So I had to pull the tail shaft housing and put one if. Newer style pan fill main trans body with older (C6DP) output housing. Older (pre 1970) trans had the vent tube on the driver's side and newer (1971+) had the vent in the tail shaft housing.
Got the interior just about done. The front seats are a little high for me, since they are non-factory so I'm going to redo the mounts and lower them down some. I put in the "opera" lights in the rear panel, which it didn't have but the wiring was setup for them. Also had the rear and side windows tinted with "limo" tint.
Fuel system has it's own bypass to allow fuel to return to the tank and keep the electric pump cooler. The "tee" fitting actually has a threaded restrictor in it to bleed off fuel and still maintain volumn and PSI where I want it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
Mounted the front fenders yesterday. New heavy duty coils put her to high. Had to pull everything apart and cut a coil off each side. Actually wasn't that hard to do. But now she sets much lower in the front. Lots of trail and error doing this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
So some feedback on the look and stance before I bolt up the fenders completely. Cut the coils to drop her a bit. Cut the driver's side coil just a little less to level her when I set in it.
 

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Beautiful job. That C4 looks tiny behind the big block
 

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Stance is good. If the back were lowered just a little, I think it would be perfect.....but I would probably live with it or address it if you have to add a wedge for pinion angle. I bought 1" aluminum lowering blocks and cut them into wedges to correct angle and lower 1/2" with one piece.
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
Stance is good. If the back were lowered just a little, I think it would be perfect.....but I would probably live with it or address it if you have to add a wedge for pinion angle. I bought 1" aluminum lowering blocks and cut them into wedges to correct angle and lower 1/2" with one piece.
This is how high it was when I brought it home from the shop with the new springs in and no weight, and those are 28" tires. Had the front of the rear fender modified to allow them.
 

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Wow. It has come down alot!. And you are right...That is a tall tire in there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
Wow. It has come down alot!. And you are right...That is a tall tire in there.
The reason for the taller tire is at 70MPH a 28" requires 500 rpms less to get down the road then the 24/25" tire. I wanted to keep the rpms under 3K at 70. Also if I ever drag raced her a 28/29" slick fits easily. That or 2 couples and a 12 pack and she won't be riding low.
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
Finally got the fenders going on after getting the ride height where I wanted it. Redid the front coils(4 times). Thanks for all your feedback, it does help. I went with just a little taller coils for a little more clearence and not so much front rake. Pulled the engine/trans and changed to a different torque converter.
This is 5 1/2 months working few hours each day. Summer was to hot but I put in a few 6hr days.
She has gone from this when I picked her up May 1 to this now. Almost time to start driving her and get the bugs out.
 

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