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Discussion Starter #1
I've got a stock 68 Cougar (302, C4, 8 inch)and I would like to build it up a little bit but I want to get the most bang for my buck. I've posted many questions before and I would like to thank all of you who have given me advice. I have decided on the following. I want your opinion as to other upgrades I could make to make the thing go faster...but for a good value. For example, head work would be great but I don't think the extra power is worth the $600-800 I'd have to put into them. So again, please critic what I plan to do. I want the car to be a daily driver and "look stock". Also, if you could estimate a 1/4 mile time it would be appreciated.

1. Aluminum Edelbrock 4bbl RPM intake manifold.
2. 600 to 625 cfm holley or edelbrock carburetor.
3. Headers, 2.5 inch dual exhaust, dynomax turbo mufflers.
4. 3.55 rear end gears with posi unit.
5. Shift kit
6. Still debating on whether or not to upgrade the distributor/ignition, cam and timing chain and nitrous...???

Any thoughts or experience with similar upgrades are appreciated. Thanks again.











<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Wildcat on 1/28/02 10:47pm ]</font>
 

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I see no reference for a cam and lifter change. With the rest of what you have there, why not go for that at the same time? Others here can direct you to the proper way of porting at home. At least do a port gasket match on the intake and maybe the exhaust. Just my .02.
 

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I have a '67, and have done everything you are talking about (except the rear end, that's coming soon). On my 289, when I threw on my RPM intake and 600 cfm edelbrock carb, I figured I may as well take the heads off because the guides were leaking, so i took them to a machine shop, picked them up two days later. As I stared at my stripped block, I decided to change the cam, and went with the Performer plus ( .448, .472 lift) cam. Also replaced water pump with a Milodon performance pump, and timing chain with summit piece. Noticed a nice increase over the original "A" code performance. Recently threw on hooker headers and 2.5" dual exhaust with 40 series flowmasters. I had a c4, which was dying. Instead of sinking money into it, I converted to a Z-spec T5. With all that I've done, car is A LOT more fun to drive than it originally was. For the motor work I did, minus the valve job, I spent somewhere around $500-$600.

Something to remember though, don't get all excited about the motor and trans, and forget about the rest of the car. Be sure you can stop your beast
. On e-bay you'll almost always be able to find a front disc conversion for a couple hundred bucks. I got mine for $160. Also, suspension. All I've done to mine was got some 620 lbs. springs and clamped them down about 1 1/2". Handling went way up! Soon I'm going to upgrade front sway bar, put one in the back, new springs in the back, and shocks all around. Just something to remember.

Sorry for the long, long post. It's just I've spent three years on my car and counting, lot's to tell
.
 

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Sorry, but one other thing about the brakes. I threw almost $1500 at my front drums trying to make them work right, and finally went with the discs. I bought new drums, shoes, cylinders, and still wasn't working right. Don't do what I did. Just get discs. More reliable, work better, and you'll have peace of mind, and easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for your info. What you described you did to your motor is similar to what I wanted to do to mine. To do it for $500-600 is impressive from the prices I've been looking at. I think I'm going to warm the motor over a little now, with the carb, intake, and exhaust. The do some drivetrain work. I can put in the carb and intake in myself but I'll have to pay to have someone weld the exhaust in, which I think will run about $400 alone with parts (headers, mufflers). Of course, once I get started I'll probably want to do more too...a cam would be nice...I really want better heads but I'm having trouble finding a solid pair for a good price...

The more I think about it though, instead of trying to built up this motor more, after it dies I'd like to save my money and start from scratch with a built 351W stroker. But maybe thats too much...

I would like to change to a manual transmission but it's not in my budget now and the car, although not scarce, has never seen an accident and is a one family owner. I'd hate to cut things up too much under there. I'm lucky in that the car came with factory disc brakes up front.

Oh well, it's a hobby car and I'm not in a hurry to build it, we'll see what it turns into...





 

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A good dual plane intake and 600cfm carb, and a set of 3.55 gears will wake the Cougar up big time. Everything else can come when the timing is right, get a good ignition system before doing the cam change, then exhaust. Put duals on even if you dont do headers yet, it needs to breath, and cutting duals to fit headers is easy, get duals done now and you can do the header install and exhaust fab at home. Good luck, keep it going.
You also should do a brake overhaul, drum brakes work well if they are done properly, but disk brakes do rule for safety.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks Dark, that was the kind of step by step information I was looking for. It's an XR7 and has factory disc brakes. Now I want it to go 0-60 as fast as it will stop from 0-60. I can't help but think about the "N" word, why not nitrous???
 

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I might get flack from mike for saying this, but if it's going to be just for street, dont waste your money on that stuff. Cant use it properly on the street anyways. It is the best Bang for the buck, but not worth it, need more then just to bolt on nitous to make it run without doing some damage in your motor, like better ignition, retards, etc, gets kinda pricey for a low-buck hop up.
Do your car first the way you want, cam, heads, gears, exhaust, etc. Then if you swap to a stroker 351W later, need to build THAT motor for the juice, anybodies car can do 10's on Nitrous, it's more cooler naturally aspirated I think, and gets more respect that way.
I'm not knocking nitous, never used it, but take care of the important stuff before thinking of nitrous, your car will last longer and can do it cheaper and more reliable without it.

Rick

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68 Fairlane/70 Cougar

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: dark7068 on 1/29/02 4:29pm ]</font>
 
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