Yes Dennis, I'll be bolting them to a .125" wall boxed in bracket welded in under the control arm. Similar to this (only with a thicker wall, since I'm cutting them out of the square tubing myself):This thing doesn't look like its built sturdy enough for a "heavy" street driven car, particularly the extended needle section. Will both bolt holes be attached to something sturdy that doesn't rotate?
Absolutely. That's the main reason I run an anti-roll bar. May as well put that twist to work forcing weight to the low traction side of the car .When it comes to settling it, that will make a difference in alinement.
I drag raced an 82 Merc Zephyr with a 460 and found that putting the weight of the driver in it and then checking the settings changed them some.
That's why many twist to the driver's side on launch.
It's very close, but the strut is still the travel limiter. Also, in these pictures it's just mocked up. I still have the aluminum stiffener to put on there, which acts somewhat like a misalignment bushing on the top side.Looks good! Are your rod ends for your outer tie rods maxed out at full droop? If they are misalignment bushing will take care of that.
I was originally going to do this, but I was going to weld the nut in between the joint. Unfortunately it would have been even wider lol, so I scrapped the idea. I really like your idea of grinding out a nut to slip over the outside though, as the passenger side is very tight to turn.Have another idea, where you welded the swedge tubing together for the tie rod adjuster. I'm not doubting your welding ability (although I would be mine, lol!) What if you took a large nut ground out the threads till it just fit over the joint, then welded it on both sides, it would strengthen the joint plus give you a hex to adjust!
Ok so it wasn't 'tomorrow' lol...at least I'm updating though =p.Annnnnnd she's standing on her own four feet!!
More on the details tomorrow .
Lol! Once I know for sure this is going to work properly, I'd be happy to do other people's cars. As I mentioned before though...I don't know for sure that it'd work with an internal pump oil system...even with a rear sump. So far the rack sits literally directly under where the pump goes. One solution might be to buy Fatman's rear steer brackets and use a different style rack setup mounted in the back, but that has a significant impact on the budget aspect of the setup.alright just let me know when i can drop the falcon off to have you convert it over...
That's awesome lol. That's very much what I was thinking of doing with mine...using the semi gloss, then a green scotch pad to rub it down. Rinse and repeat until I'm happy, lol.Chris you are a machine man, I wish I had the time you have. I guess if I wasnt traveling all over the country shooting, I would?
Hey, on the paint, easy peasy. Guy here has a bitching 55, semi gloss/matt black on bottom, white on top.
The black is flat, subdued but has a tinge of brightness to it, not gloss, really interesting, and cool.
I asked him if it was that rad rod paint, he said no, its because I ran out of money. The car was supposed to be blue and white.
He took that Rustoleum semi gloss black, or Satin, and painted the car, rubbed it with a scotch pad, painted it and rubbed it again. Looks awesom, you dont get those lines like you do with primer.
I use the crap out of it in my fender wells and underbody, great stuff.
It looked really good, especially with the two tone gloss and satin...could be nice all satin with some stripes or accent in gloss.That's awesome lol. That's very much what I was thinking of doing with mine...using the semi gloss, then a green scotch pad to rub it down. Rinse and repeat until I'm happy, lol.
Thanks for the input man...good to know it can be made to work