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That is one cool ride ya got there. I have broke my arm a few times and ya donot have to wait 8 weeks to work on that car. In about 2 he can be getting the cast dirty and turn wrenches. Best part is father and son. All my dad did with me is use me for a punching bag. If I had my choice to dig up my favorite dog or dad I would find my dogs favorite ball he ran and got. Very good doings there. Just remember when ya son does something wrong , just go up town and get a pepsi with him and come back to work on car. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #22
OK I know I am as slow as snot on this but I promise I am going to do SOMETHING this summer. I busted out the borescope and took a look at the cyls, looks pretty good. Motor has been sitting for 25 or so years since the rebuild and was never fired. I am going to drain the oil, put in some EOS with the new oil, prime the hell out of it, swap the carb for an Edelbrock 600 I have and fire it up!
Here is a vid of one bore and the car
69_Ranchero_project - YouTube

I am kind of worried because as far as I can tell the trans is dry (rebuilt and never ran either). Can I prime the trans in anyway to try and get some fluid in the converter and pump before firing?
 

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... I am going to drain the oil, put in some EOS with the new oil, prime the hell out of it, swap the carb for an Edelbrock 600 I have and fire it up!

I am kind of worried because as far as I can tell the trans is dry (rebuilt and never ran either). Can I prime the trans in anyway to try and get some fluid in the converter and pump before firing?
Can't see much in the video, but it doesn't matter really. You might try piping the bor-o-scope output to your computer video card rather than trying to video a video of a video. ;) Anyway, your fire-up plan sounds good to me, but I would get everything ready to fire and do the priming last as the less time there is for the oil to run off the parts - the better. Also, prime until you get oil out of the rockers, then rotate the crank 90° and prime a few seconds, and repeat for two crank revolutions to get the oil everywhere.

For the trans, the biggest concern is hardened seals. You can't do much about that unless you want to tear it all down, so just go for it and find out. Typical C4 fill is 10-11 quarts. Put 4 in before startup, and add as much fluid to the torque converter as possible without spilling when you turn it up on-edge for installation (be sure the TC is fully seated!!!). Install it and get a buddy to add the remaining 4-5 or so quarts of fluid after engine start while you're busy with playing with the engine and looking for leaks, fires, small disasters, odd sounds, etc. After warmup and running through the gears - if it has gears - top it off to the FILL line and drive.

David

PS: Verify your throttle opens the carb WOT properly, then adjust your kickdown rod/cable at carb WOT with .030-.050" play before maxing the kickdown lever.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Ya David my laptop does not have a video input. As far as priming the converter the trans is already installed. I am going to assume there is some fluid in the converter from the initial install. I just need to get a rad, fan, shroud and trans lines. I will pull the Holley off and take a look at it, if I am not happy with it I will either rebuild it or swap on that Edelbrock I have. I did put the scope in a valve cover and saw some rust on the inside of the cover so I will pull 'em and clean them up and check the valve adjustment while I'm there. I need to have them off for priming anyway. I just hope everything goes good on initial startup so I can run it long enough to break in the cam.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Can anyone tell me what fan shrouds will fit? I am just looking for a stock type shroud, what other models have the same shroud. With a 351W I should be looking for a radiator with passenger side outlets too right?
 

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The shroud depends on the radiator you choose. The radiator outlet depends on the water pump. 1969 had a right (passenger-side) inlet, and '70+ had left, but either could be on there so check. If your current radiator is good, and it's a stock-style down-flow style, you can have a rad shop move the inlet to the other side if necessary for a few bucks.

David
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Ya I do not have a rad and have to get one. Current pump has outlet on the pass side. I ran across a good 3 row rad from a 69 Mustang for 50 bucks but the outlet is on the drivers side. Maybe I will pick it up and have the outlet moved.
 

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Ya I do not have a rad and have to get one. Current pump has outlet on the pass side. I ran across a good 3 row rad from a 69 Mustang for 50 bucks but the outlet is on the drivers side. Maybe I will pick it up and have the outlet moved.
If you do this, just know that Mustang radiators are about 1" shorter than Fairlane radiators. And, you'll also find that Fairlane radiators are not very common and usually expensive when you do find them.

I have a 24" radiator out of a '69 Mustang in my Ranchero, I just had to space the upper saddle bracket down about an inch.
 

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Ya I do not have a rad and have to get one. Current pump has outlet on the pass side. I ran across a good 3 row rad from a 69 Mustang for 50 bucks but the outlet is on the drivers side. Maybe I will pick it up and have the outlet moved.
If the outlet is on the drivers side, then it is not from a '69 Mustang. All '69 Fords used the passenger side. Ford switched everything over in 1970 to the drivers side.

The '69 Mustang radiator will work, see my post above from a few months ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Re: '69 Father and son project..

Ya been doing other stuff, but I just came across a tailgate for $75, hoping to go pick it up tomorrow. That got me all interested in the beast again. I also realized that I have a Griffin aluminum radiator brand new in the box that has been sitting in the garage for the past 10 years, came with my '67 Camaro. Its a universal fit and the inlet and outlets are on the right sides for the water pump in the Ranchero. Going to go out tomorrow and see if I can make it work. I think I am going to yank the motor and trans, rebuild the wiring harness, replace the master cylinder and lines and clean up the engine compartment while I have the motor out. Anyone do any slick seat swaps? The stock bench is toast but the frame seems OK. I have one bucket (drivers side I think) from a Fairlane that gramps had redone. He never got the other one back from the upholstery shop. I was thinking maybe late model Mustang seats.

Hope to give more updates soon!
 

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Are you sure the radiator inlet/outlets are oriented correctly? Most chevys are the exact opposite of Fords orientation. Also, the width is against you. It will probably hit the battery tray. Might look into relocating the battery, or changing the orientation of the tray with a tray from a '67 Mustang.

Know that the Fairlane floor pan is a bit of a challenge to mount buckets to. It's no where close to flat (unlike a Mustang). The challenging point if the mount for the rear, inside bolt - with the factory floor pans, it's just left hanging in the air. The factory used stamped metal spacers that the mounting bolt would run through to support this corner of the seat. Bench seats did not require any support in this area.

When I installed Acura seats in my Ranchero, I used seat brackets from Corbeau, which fit the floor reasonably well. Still had to mount them to the seat though.
 
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