[scld1354]

Thought I would start a thread on the EFI swap I am doing. I started about 9 months ago, but felt like I made huge progress today with the wiring.

Some basic (but very necessery) questions about "hot in start" and "hot in run" questions were answered in this thread: http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/ranchero-pages/505902-efi-wiring-question.html

I have a 90 Mustang sitting on the side of the house that I was able to get everything I needed from. I pulled the motor and all motor mounted sensors/actuators a while ago. I have an EFI intake and TB, MAF sensor and injectors, TFI dizzy and coil, and engine harness already sitting on a shelf in the garage. They have been out of the Mustang for almost 3 years.

More recently, probably toward the end of last summer, I pulled the EEC, the EEC harness, the EEC relay, fuel pump relay, inertia switch, and BARO sensor. I also pulled the pigtail with the green connector (by the EEC in the Mustang). Im sure there are other odds and ends that I pulled, and there is probably more stuff I still need to pull (like maybe the metal fuel lines up by the motor).

I spent last fall going through the stock Mustang EEC harness. I removed all the smog stuff from the harness (TAD, TAB, EGR, EVR, CANP, AM1, AM2), and the AC circuits. (No pics, but there were pieces of wiring all over the house. The wife was not happy.)

Winter was too busy, although at some point I fabbed up a mounting plate for the EEC. The plate bolts to 2 tabs I welded to the cowl. It is in the middle of the dash, behind the lower dash and below the upper dash. You can see it's location relative to the vent fan box in the pic. Pics were taken with a cell phone and are awful.

Click on the small pic for a full-sized pic.



I dont really have anywhere to put the EEC relay. I figure it is safe tucked up on top of the fan blower motor. You can also see the green connector I referenced above. The green connector has the power circuit for the O2 sensors, the FP monitor line for the EEC, a self test output that will become a CEL, and wires to hook up to the trans for the VSS.



The fuel pump relay, and fuse box are located behind the passenger's side kick panel. The fuse panel will power electric fans, O2 sensors, TFI POWER, and anything else I might need.



The fuse panel gets power from a relay, which gets power from the starter solenoid (battery) and is tripped by the pink wire in the ignition switch. I ran a dedicated 16 ga wire from the ignition switch to the fuse panel relay.



The inertia switch will be mounted behind the pass side of the bench. (The wires are ran to where the inertia switch will go, but it got late and the wife was wondering where I was. I hope to make this connection and the fuel pumps tomorrow morning.) The inertia switch will go in the area circled in red. The battery is also mounted behind the pass side of the bench (in a Taylor battery box that vents to the outside).



The fuel system is not wired up yet, but it is all mapped out. I have a wire run for the low pressure pump. It comes up the driver's side, between the bed and the quarter panel. It comes out behind the drivers side of the bench. I have to connect that and the high pressure fuel pump to one of the white wires in the fuel pump relay pic.

I mounted the high pressure pump and fuel filter/fuel accumulator where the battery used to go. That is why the battery is mounted in the cab. In this pic you can see the keep-alive-power for the EEC connected to the front terminal of the starter solenoid (black wire with orange stripe), and the TFI START wire attached to the "I" terminal (blue wire). You can also see my 3G alternator pigtail and charging wire.

 

[5.0 Chero]

If I can make a couple of suggestions, move the fuel pump closer to the fuel tank you will not need the feeder pump. also ford has a factory accumulator that works better than the remote filter conversions it hoos int the return lines can be found on late 80s early 90 Frod trucks and vans.

I mounted my factory ford external pump fuel and filter under the ranchero on the flat panel in front of the rear end and the reservoir by the tank. It has been trouble free since 2002 when I first converted it to EFI.

Here is the last motor put in around Christmas last year, this is the 3rd junkyard 5.0 that I have put in,

 

[PSIG]

... move the fuel pump closer to the fuel tank you will not need the feeder pump. ...

How are you feeding the accumulator? Where are you placing the return in the tank? Just curious, as those trucks and vans had a feeder pump > accumulator > HP pump, and getting rid of the feeder reliably would be nice.

David

 

[scld1354]

If I can make a couple of suggestions, move the fuel pump closer to the fuel tank you will not need the feeder pump. also ford has a factory accumulator that works better than the remote filter conversions it hoos int the return lines

I got the idea to run it this way from guys installing efi in first gen broncos. I'll find the site and insert the link. I wish I would have known about the factory accumulator, since Im trying to use as many factory parts as I can. I tapped this setup to splice into the fuel return line.

How are you feeding the accumulator?

It goes low pressure pump > accumulator > high pressure pump. The whole reason I'm using the LP pump is because i was originally going to keep the carb setup.

As far as reliability, for the LP pump, I'm using a Holley blue pump. I've heard nothing but good thing about that pump.


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app

 

[scld1354]

I spent the last couple of days getting the fuel system all wired. The inertia switch is wired between the VREF and FP relay. I also got the Chero pushed out of the garage and the motor moved to where I can work on it.

This is the inertia switch mounted to the rear cab wall. The thin red wire running across the floor is the power for the low pressure pump (mounted by the gas tank). The thick red wire is the + battery cable.



This is the final set up for the FP relay, fuse panel and it's relay. The red and white wire coming off the FP relay go to the inertia switch. The pink/blk wire splice into both fuel pumps. I can't tell from the pics, but one of the other wires goes to the self-test, and the other is a ground. Most of the wires are now in a loom. The remaining wires will probably get taped together.



Here is the lower dash and steering column installed. The white wire on the pass floor board supplies the "hot in run and start" signal to the fuse panel. There is a red wire on the far end of the EEC. That will go to a CEL. The dash has to come out, get sanded, primered and painted.

 

[5.0 Chero]

How are you feeding the accumulator? Where are you placing the return in the tank? Just curious, as those trucks and vans had a feeder pump > accumulator > HP pump, and getting rid of the feeder reliably would be nice.

David

No feeder pump on the trucks and vans(at least the ones I have looked at), the fuel return keeps the reservoir/accumulator full I have the return plumed into the old charcoal canister vent line.

 

[5.0 Chero]

This is the inertia switch mounted to the rear cab wall. The thin red wire running across the floor is the power for the low pressure pump (mounted by the gas tank). The thick red wire is the + battery cable.





http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/928465

The Inertia switch need to be Vertical (reset button on top) to work properly.

 

[scld1354]

The Inertia switch need to be Vertical (reset button on top) to work properly.

5.0 Chero, I will fix that when I wire up the VSS.

I have been slowly making progress. I mocked up the intake tubing, MAF, and air filter. I didn't think it was going to be as much trouble as it ended up being. When I set the upper intake on the motor, the TB was very close to the pass shock tower. I had a C&L cast elbow from my fox body that I hoped to use, but it hit the shock tower. Then I tried using the stock fox Mustang rubber elbow. It fit, but was really tight, and basically put the air filter where the alternator is.

It took a few days to figure out how I was going to route the intake. Do I pound the crap out of the shock tower? I didn't want to do that. I could buy the Spectre flex tubing kit, but the TB was 3.5" and the MAF was 3", so I would need adapters.

I ended up finding a rubber 90* elbow at the JY, lying under a fox Mustang. (I can't find any part numbers on it, so I don't know what it came off of.) This fits between the TB and the shock tower. On a second trip to the JY I found a 30* rubber elbow (Chrylser part #). The 30* elbow places the MAF where the air filter clears the alternator, the radiator, and the fuel accumulator. The MAF is mounted to a bracket that is welded to the pass shock tower. The air filter will suck hot air, but will work until I can figure something else out.

It goes: TB > 90* elbow > 4" piece of 3"X.060" steel tubing (only purpose is to connect rubber elbows) > 30* elbow > MAF > air filter



I was able to use the coil and bracket from the 90 Mustang parts car. I had to flatten one of the mounting tabs (circled in red) to get the bracket to work on the driver's side shock tower. The wiring for the coil is a little snug, but should be fine. I can add some slack by removing those wires from the TFI harness (how it's taped up right now) if I need to.



I still have to install the trans and headers, then figure out where the O2 bungs are going to get installed. Then I need to figure out where the wiring for the O2 sensors will lay.

I also still need to wire up the VSS, which connects to the main EEC harness by where I have the FP relay and the fuse panel.

 

[5.0 Chero]

First off I am in no way trying to knock what you are doing, just making sugestions you are doing a great job.

Are you set on using a cone style air filter in the hot engine compartment I am using a 90s Tbird cougar air box mounted to the inner fender pulling the air from the wheel well

the elbows are from crown Vic's with 4.6 throttle body to air silencer

 

[scld1354]

Are you set on using a cone style air filter in the hot engine compartment I am using a 90s Tbird cougar air box mounted to the inner fender pulling the air from the wheel well

I dig your set up. I welcome all criticizms and suggestions. I tried to plan everything out before I started, but I am sure I forgot some things. For instance, had I known about the factory accumulator tank, I would have (and still might) use that.

Im not set on using the cone style filter. I have my accumulator tank and high pressure pump where your air box is mounted. I plan to eventually run the intake tube from the MAF to the front side of the radiator/core support (maybe like a ram air setup?).

Also, I just remembered that I capped off pin #30 somewhere in the underhood harness (I think I remember where it's at). Pin 30 is the neutral safety switch circuit. I am not going to have a NSS in my setup. I have an automatic car computer, which needs 12V in crank on pin #30. A manual trans car computer would have been easier to wire, as it only needs pin #30 to be grounded. So, I will have to un-tape the harness and run pin #30 to the "S" terminal on the starter solenoid.

 

[5.0 Chero]

Let me do some double checking ( I wired mine in 2002) I do not think you need to worry about Pin 30 I have had both std and auto well actually all of the different catch code ECMs for a Mustang MAF 5.0 at one time or another in mine and I do not believe I hooked it up to anything I use to test the ECMs in My PYL before I sold them on EBAY

On your headers are you using Fox body headers? I modified the factory 5.0 headers to work in the 73 chassis and was able to use a 5.0 off road X pipe it had bungs already and save a bunch of money on exhaust

 

[scld1354]

On your headers are you using Fox body headers?

I sold the headers and x-pipe I had on the mustang. I'm using a set of l/t headers for late 60s mustangs, cougars, fairlanes, etc. They are the same ones I used when the ranchero was carbed.




Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app

 

[scld1354]

Ive been neglecting the Ranchero for a couple of weeks. Today I got the e-fan controller (Derale) wired up. I'm using two 14" e-fans I got off of ebay a couple years ago. The kept everything cool, and used to be wired up to a switch.

I also got the headers installed so I can figure out where I'm going to weld in the O2 sensor bungs. Then I need to run/check the length of the O2 sensor harness. I'm waiting on the O2 bungs to show up in the mail.

I still have to run the fuel lines. Since Im using the stock Mustang rail, the connectors are on the pass side. This made it necessary to mount the high pressure pump and fuel filter/accumulator on the pass side (where the battery box used to be). Also, the low pressure pump is on the pass side, right in front of the tank. Too bad the factory fuel line is on the driver's side. I want to use hard lines as much as I can. I'm going to pick up some 6' pieces of 3/8" and 5/16" tubing in 304 stainless from Graingers. I don't plan on flaring anything, just using rubber hose and hose clamps where needed. I figure i can make any bends myself (I have a hand-held tubing bender I used on brake lines a long time ago).

Any suggestions for plumbing the return line into the tank? I was planning on soldering a nipple/tube with a 90* bend to the piece the feed line runs through (top of the tank), or maybe I can solder a nipple onto the filler neck?

 

[PSIG]

Check which fuel rail design you have first - but You can usually flip the fuel rails around with a chunk of new crossover line if you want to come-in on the left (driver's) side. Soldering, brazing or welding the return or a fitting into the sending unit plate is the most common, but into the tank directly, or the filler neck has been done many times as it's a low pressure line. Some factory tanks have a drain fitting and plug that can be used as well, if it's not too low or prone to damage.

David

 

[scld1354]

Been somewhat busy over the last month. I got the O2 bungs welded in the headers, ran all the fuel lines, pulled the motor and trans, and installed the gas pedal and throttle cable from the Mustang, and painted the lower dash and steering column collar.

The O2 bungs came from eBay. They were extremely user friendly. I ran a 18mmx1.5mm tap through the bung after I welded them in place just in case the welding warped the bung. (It didn't warp it.)

For the fuel lines, I ordered up some 5/16x.028 and 3/8x.028 stainless tubing from Grainger. The stainless lines (supply and return) run along the frame. The stainless lines end in the engine compartment. From there, it is all rubber lines.

The stock Mustang gas pedal sat too close to the firewall. I made a spacer by welding 2 pieces of 1x.060 square tubing together, to form a 1x2 rectangle. That was tacked to the pedal mount. Holes were drilled through the firewall, and everything was put together.

I need to make sure all the wiring is cleaned up. Then everything goes back together, for the final time!

 

[5.0 Chero]

COOL!
Progress.

 

[dotcentral]

SCLD1354, found your thread while googling gas peadl/5.0 swap. Looking good so far.

I am using a 90s Tbird cougar air box mounted to the inner fender pulling the air from the wheel well

the elbows are from crown Vic's with 4.6 throttle body to air silence

5.0 Chero, I am looking at doing this myself. My donor is a 91 T-Bird. Project is a 71 F100. got any pics of the inner fender with the air box off? Did you add any splash guard type deflectors to protect the air filter & box or do you find that unnecessary?

Sorry for the hi-jack.

 

[5.0 Chero]

Dot

I just sat air box on the fender apron where i wanted it and traced out the hole,

I am drawing the air from right behind the front bumper

 

[dotcentral]

Dot

I just sat air box on the fender apron where i wanted it and traced out the hole, I am drawing the air from right behind the front bumper

Crap, I didn't think to get the ducting from inside the fender up to the airbox from my donor!

Thanks for the pics. Guess I need to hit the parts yard or craigslist for someone parting a T-bird or a cougar.

 

[scld1354]

I fired the Ranchero up today!!! Freakin sweet. I ran KOEO codes and got the following: 15, 81, 82, & 85 KOEO codes, then I got a 19 continuous memory code. From what I can get online, the 15 just means the EEC was without power (it was for ~5 years).

Also, I think the EEC was not grounded very well. I fixed that, and hope that takes care of the 19 code (otherwise it might be time for a new EEC). The smog stuff has been removed, which explains the 81 (AM2/TAD), 82 (AM1/TAB), and 85 (CANP solenoid).

I still need to get a shifter handle, bleed the brakes, and adjust the e-brake. I also still need to install the gauges and the upper dash