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Discussion Starter #1
Hello folks!
I'm going to get started on the dash pad modifications in the next few days. I'm moving the stereo to the top of the dash about where the speaker used to reside. I have to build a housing for it, then the whole thing will get recovered. Wish me luck!! Lol
 

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G'luck.....
 

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Hmmm yes, veery interesting... For the recover, are you going to use foam and naugahide?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hmmm yes, veery interesting... For the recover, are you going to use foam and naugahide?
The foam is cracked like most are, but it's still flexible. I'm leaning towards filling the cracks with bondo and smoothing them down. I found some vinyl, or naugahide that has like a cotton backing that should hide any imperfections. I have the design in my head...the trick is getting it out and into the finished product. Lol
 

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If you are using that 4-way stretch stuff, check to see how it sticks with your contact cement. You might not be happy with it.
 

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The foam is cracked like most are, but it's still flexible. I'm leaning towards filling the cracks with bondo and smoothing them down. I found some vinyl, or naugahide that has like a cotton backing that should hide any imperfections. I have the design in my head...the trick is getting it out and into the finished product. Lol
First I would DA the entire dash to get it as smooth as possible.
If you go to a Trim shop and purchase some 3/8 inch vinyl top padding ( this foam is firm and can be sanded) you can glue it over the dash and then with a DA (or by hand) you can sand it smooth where there are high and low spots to even it out.
Just go slow with the DA. By hand, if this is your first time, may be better.
The Naugahyde you picked will hide the small places. When you glue it down and you see a small low spot don't push it down there, just stretch it over the spot. A hair dryer (or heat gun) may come in handy to make the Naugahyde soft and easier to apply to the dash.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
If you are using that 4-way stretch stuff, check to see how it sticks with your contact cement. You might not be happy with it.
Not sure if it's called that or not, but thats been pinging around my head as well. My fear, is the backing glues down, but pulls away from the vinyl and leaves a bunch of wrinkles...hmmm
 

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Discussion Starter #9
First I would DA the entire dash to get it as smooth as possible.
If you go to a Trim shop and purchase some 3/8 inch vinyl top padding ( this foam is firm and can be sanded) you can glue it over the dash and then with a DA (or by hand) you can sand it smooth where there are high and low spots to even it out.
Just go slow with the DA. By hand, if this is your first time, may be better.
The Naugahyde you picked will hide the small places. When you glue it down and you see a small low spot don't push it down there, just stretch it over the spot. A hair dryer (or heat gun) may come in handy to make the Naugahyde soft and easier to apply to the dash.
When I first began thinking about this project, I thought about striping off all of the old foam and starting over. However, the metal base is only 18 or 22ga and it doesn't extend fully to the front edge of the das over the speedo. Then I looked at the defroster vents and how they are recessed and shaped and I decided not to strip it. I've asked Santa for a vacuum forming machine, but I doubt I'll get one:rolleyes:
 

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I think you're going the right way.I used some spare Mellowhide marine vinyl on mine and painted it with SEM and it came out great. Glue is still holding after three Texas summers parked outside.

Thick foam actually looks pretty good but can make fitment problems. Don't know about the 1970 but on mine I cut the vinyl 1" over and let the extra run under the windshield trim.
 

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First I would DA the entire dash to get it as smooth as possible.
If you go to a Trim shop and purchase some 3/8 inch vinyl top padding ( this foam is firm and can be sanded) you can glue it over the dash and then with a DA (or by hand) you can sand it smooth where there are high and low spots to even it out.
Thing is you can shape this foam with sanding, to get a good fit for the "tight" places. (where pad meets windshield etc), and a long sanding board is the best for getting it "flat". Just another pointer. As stated you can use a heat gun to make the vinyl easier to work with, if you dont have one of those just letting it set in the sun will make it more supple.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I think you're going the right way.I used some spare Mellowhide marine vinyl on mine and painted it with SEM and it came out great. Glue is still holding after three Texas summers parked outside.

Thick foam actually looks pretty good but can make fitment problems. Don't know about the 1970 but on mine I cut the vinyl 1" over and let the extra run under the windshield trim.
Exactly. It tapers down to about 1/8" where it comes up to meet the windshield. I have a dash cap on the one in the car and it doesn't quite fit right. IMO, I think the less added to the existing pad, the better it will fit.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Here's some pics of the hide away stereo housing. It looks crude right now, but its in the first steps. I used an extra glove box door for the lid and just cut away the interior side of it and cut it down to fit the hole. I'm waiting on the locking sleeves for the stereo, so once I get that in, it'll stiffen things up considerably.
 

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Well, I had to drop this idea. There's just not enough room. The rear of the stereo hits the firewall just under the windshield. I thought about where the clock would go, but there isn't enough metal...I'd have to cut away a lot of the structure. Still thinking...
 

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We ar going to do a custom console for ours, i was starting to like this concept, was thinking about a servo motor to make it open up out of the dash, sorry to hear it wont fit.
 

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Can't believe you'd really drop the project. Can you find a shorter head unit? Cut a hole in the firewall? Skip the CD player, design yersef a USB/bluetooth/iPhone/backup camera/GPS/clock ash tray.

Keep on going!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
We ar going to do a custom console for ours, i was starting to like this concept, was thinking about a servo motor to make it open up out of the dash, sorry to hear it wont fit.
I had pretty much the same idea, but using a linear actuator. Still burning the brain cells...lol
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Can't believe you'd really drop the project. Can you find a shorter head unit? Cut a hole in the firewall? Skip the CD player, design yersef a USB/bluetooth/iPhone/backup camera/GPS/clock ash tray.

Keep on going!
I'm still pondering, so don't fret lol. I really don't want to cut a hole in the firewall for a stereo.
 

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I'm still pondering, so don't fret lol. I really don't want to cut a hole in the firewall for a stereo.
I know ya already have the stereo (head unit) but why not get one of the remote mount types that ya hide the main body and only have the remote head to mount visibly.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I know ya already have the stereo (head unit) but why not get one of the remote mount types that ya hide the main body and only have the remote head to mount visibly.
I believe thats going to be my only option. Like puttster said..get rid of the cd player..I have an mp3 player and its loaded with music. I just have to find it. Lol
 
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