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Discussion Starter #1
well hey guys,

let me start this way. my suspension front and rear as stiff as could be for a street car. like 750 coil springs and kyb high pressure kyb shocks, in the rear i got 5-n-half leaf spring and gabriel hi-jacker air shocks. car doesn't bottom at all. so i hear i'm totally set up for road racing. i love to take 50mph turns and yata yata yata. ok not 50mph but very close to that.

my question is: is it true on road racing that you want all wheel and tire size at al four corners? is keeping all the corners the same size on wheel and tire the thng to do on on fast turning fun?

now the main quesiion: what is the fastest tire i can fit on a 73 mach 1? so i can figure out a size that i can fit at all the sides. the front wheel well seems to be alot bigger than the back. prolly normal cuz the front haves to turn. can i fit 15x8 wheel and 275/50/15 tires all around?

is it ok if i just go 275/50/15 front wit 15x8 wheel and 295/50/15 rear with 15x10 wheel? is that sill excepable for road racing? or do we strictly want all te corners to be the same? is having nice fat meat in the fronthelp cornering.


i only say road racing because i know they do lots of turns instead of straght ahead performance. and turning is what i LOVE. fast turns that is. so if i am using road racing incorrectly i apoligizing. i just want to say for fast turns.

oh yea i already got the fastest sway bars under the car for the body roll.

_________________

=) our v8 carbed cars seem to always think the gas tank is it's buffet!!!! LoL
oLiE tHe AsIaN wItH rEaL mUscLe -N- nOt No f#%!En cOmMoN iMpOrT.



<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: XolieX on 4/15/02 2:00am ]</font>
 

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Olie:
First, s**tcan the air ahocks. They are a big no-no with any early Mustang. The upper mount of the rear shock is only sheetmetal, and any hard driving will crack and tear it out in short order with air shocks. You've got heavy duty leafs, so you should have no need for an air lift in the rear. If you're doing it to raise the rear, then you must not be too concerned with handling, so road racing is out. Get some Kyb's for the rear, sell the Gabriels on eBay or put them in stock. If the rear is too low, trim a 1/4 coil in the front at a time to bring the nose down so it's looks right. Ideally, the rocker panel should be parallel with ground, and the front lower control arms should be as close to parallel to the ground as possible.

As far as your suspension setup, there are a few schools of thought on handling setups. some say Stiff springs and soft shock, some Soft springs and stiff shocks. Depends on what works for you. Best way is trial and error. Find a local SCCA club that does Solo1 racing in parking lots. Generally all you need to race in that is a helmet i believe. You can then start getting a baseline setup for your car. Adjust or change one part at a time, and run the course. Keep a log of every change in setup you do, and your times, etc, and you'll see what works for the car. Addco has a book title "Handling, what it is and how to get it" They discuss alot of spring and swaybar theory. Also, HP books has a couple of suspension and handling books available. The more you know, well, the more you know....

You could also contact Dark Horse Racing, as they run a 71 Mach road race car, and I'm sure he could help you out with the wheel and tire sizes he's run. I think you'll hear that 15's are useless, probably need to go to 16's or 17's. My '71 had 255-60-15 front and 275-60-15 rear, with no rubbing. I presently have 28-10.5-15 Hoosier Quick Time Pros (DOT drag tires) with about 1" clearance to the outer well, and 1 1/2" to the spring. 15x7 rims, 4.25" backspacing.

Hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter #3
hey hemikiller,

with my suspension. i only put air shocks because i wanted the car to sit a certain why. when i first put the 5-n-half leaf springs i sat exactly how i wanted it. at that time it had coil-over-shocks in. but the back sat down a full inch after driving around for a while. ten i thought the coil-over-shocks gave up so i put a firm ride kyb's in. it actually lowered it a half inch. i strongly wanted the car to sit a certain why. so i put air shocks for that 1 inch lift. with the kyb's and coil over shocks, they car would bottom about a fully inch. with the air shocks they don't bottom for ****. and mean not for ****.

with me cutting my front coil springs, i got 750 coil 1 inch drop from laurel mountain and when first put them in when i rebuild my entire frontend suspension. it lowered more than inch. it actually dropping 2.5 inches. then after driving it around for a whie it dropped another full inch. i think most coil springs in cars will settle in about that becase my girl's 66 6cyl mustang lowered down a full inch after putting replacements springs i. so i'm here with a 3.5 inch drop infront. i love the look because the top of the tire is inside the wheel well. the lip is lower than the tire. when i called laurel mountain and asked them what the hell is up, they said they shipped me the wrong box. they sent me springs for a 66 mustang. i compared the news spring to the old spring i think i remember that the old spring had like 1.5 less coils prolly even more. and i strongly think the 71-73 mustang have longer coil springs.

my question is, in road racing, do you really want all the same size tires? and wheels?

what 17 inch wheels will fit in my 73 mach 1? but dam man, 17 inch tires are expensive. what wheels do people recommed in 17's in a mach? are 15 inch wheels useless because they have such tall side walls which creates alot of tire flex on turns? and 17 inch wheels have minimal side wall flex? ths the reason?

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: XolieX on 4/15/02 1:55am ]</font>

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: XolieX on 4/15/02 1:59am ]</font>
 
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