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This is a 8.8 rearend I purchased from a Mustang salvage yard. I was told it was a 94-98 8.8. I am doing a 5 lug disc brake conversion on my 88 mustang. 13 inch cobras on front and 10.5 disc on back. I was told this rearend was a direct swap, just a little wider. I have changed axle bearings and seals in a 8.8 before, but this one is different. This is a picture of the end of the housing where the bearing goes. The bearing used to ride in between the 2 raised ridges you can see in the pic and had a plastic cage around the rollers. This housing also has another seal behind the bearing. I guess my question is, is this a 94-98 8.8 out of a Mustang? All the bearing kits I find are not for this housing and only come with one seal and it looks different.
Any help would be appreciated
 

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This is a 8.8 rearend I purchased from a Mustang salvage yard. I was told it was a 94-98 8.8. I am doing a 5 lug disc brake conversion on my 88 mustang. 13 inch cobras on front and 10.5 disc on back. I was told this rearend was a direct swap, just a little wider. I have changed axle bearings and seals in a 8.8 before, but this one is different. This is a picture of the end of the housing where the bearing goes. The bearing used to ride in between the 2 raised ridges you can see in the pic and had a plastic cage around the rollers. This housing also has another seal behind the bearing. I guess my question is, is this a 94-98 8.8 out of a Mustang? All the bearing kits I find are not for this housing and only come with one seal and it looks different.
Any help would be appreciated
Take a real good look at the replacement bearings and the parts book for service parts .
 

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It looks like your rear used a 2-piece bearing. Measure the OD of the seal/race that's still in there. I'll bet it matches the OD of standard 1-pece (race and rollers) replacement bearings. Assuming this isn't one of the rare floating-axle versions (no C-clip), then you should be able to pull the seal and race, and replace with a standard raced bearing and outer seal. Measure everything carefully - especially your depth.

Just for comparison, take a look at Timken's listings here. Note their replacement bearing and seal set looks much like yours, with a deep O-ringed outer seal body. Also read their notes about how it is different and the dimensions they give under the "Attributes" tab in the pop-up info. There are two different 8.8 bearings even in the same year but different models - the 6408 and the 5707. HTH

David

PS: if yo prefer a printable PDF catalog version to the online catalog, it's here.
 

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Thanks for the reply. After some research I found out that these are Axle replacement bearings. They are use when the axle is damaged. These axles have a little pitting on them but not real bad. By using this setup it moves where the bearing rides on the axle. I am just going to replace them with another set of the same kind.
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Has anyone ever used this type of bearing before? I ordered some new ones and they have and inner and outer seal. I'm questioning the inner seal. There will be no lubrication from the differential fluid. Only the grease that is packed in the bearing. Just wondering how reliable this will be.
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Has anyone ever used this type of bearing before? I ordered some new ones and they have and inner and outer seal. I'm questioning the inner seal. There will be no lubrication from the differential fluid. Only the grease that is packed in the bearing. Just wondering how reliable this will be.
Thanks
for an idea on reliabily - think what front wheel drive bearings have to do and life
 

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Has anyone ever used this type of bearing before? I ordered some new ones and they have and inner and outer seal. I'm questioning the inner seal. There will be no lubrication from the differential fluid. Only the grease that is packed in the bearing. Just wondering how reliable this will be.
Thanks
I have not used them but from your description it is a sealed and greased bearing so you would need the inner seal. Some rears used a pressed on sealed bearing. All 8.8 rears I have worked on have a roller bearing with a seal on the outside and lubed by gear oil.
 

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for an idea on reliabily - think what front wheel drive bearings have to do and life
Good point. The car won't be driven everyday so I guess I could pull the axles every 20,000 miles or so and repack the bearings for peace of mind.
 

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That's how it works. Just like your front wheel bearings. Note the two numbers I listed above - one of them is the most common (oil bath with outer seal) and the other is less common, but also used for repairs (greased with inner and outer seal). Sometimes the second type comes with an inner race.

Be sure to use an NLGI class GC-LB grease. Usually it's red or blue, but color is not a guarantee of correct type. In-fact, if you use GC-LB grease (any brand), you can use it on anything that uses grease in any year car and be covered without storing multiple greases. You also don't have to worry about accidentally mixing greases (bad) each time you lube stuff.

Background: The high-pressure, high-temperature, rolling-contact wheel bearing greases (class "G") are graded GA to GC, with GC being the highest performance. The requirements of this class are different from slow-moving, impact and gall-resistant chassis greases (class "L"), of which LB is the best level. Fortunately, with modern blending technology, we can have both classes in one grease, and then there are no mistakes using the wrong one.

David
 

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Thanks for the info. The grease that came packed in the bearings is blue. I'll look for some more blue GC-LB at the parts store tomorrow.
 
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